Clutch won't move

[quinletc]

1976 CJ5 , T-150 Transmission , Dana 20 Transfer Case .

I had an issue with my clutch not disengaging completely, which I attributed to a worn out clutch linkage assembly.

My suspicions were confirmed when I removed the old linkage, and it was in terrible shape. The plastic bushings were completely gone, and the ear of the bellcrank that attaches to the lower rod was cracked and bent.

I was about to remove the Transmission , Transfer Case , and clutch housing, to replace the throwout lever and pivot ball, but I figured I had found the problem and could forego that much more involved task. So, the entire linkage, except the throwout lever and pivot ball were replaced. Easy job.

When I put the lower rod in place (purposely setting it shorter than I thought it should be), I pressed the clutch pedal, and it would not move at all. I got under the jeep, removed the lower rod, and tried to move the throwout lever by hand. I know that should be hard to do, but this was impossible - like I was pushing against a solid object, not a stiff spring.

Any ideas what the heck just happened? I did put it up on stands one wheel at a time - could something inside the clutch have shifted and jammed it all up?

 

[JR74CJ5]

hmm...

I will say I couldn't move my throw out arm without the linkage / hydraulic now, assembly... At least I don't remember being able to... It's a surprising amount of force needed...

Could also have slipped off the ball inside maybe and fork is not holding the throw out bearing where it should...

With all linkage in, but lower rod not against the clutch fork arm, does the pedal operate freely and everything move in the correct direction?

Rule out any possible mistakes putting the linkage back together first is my recommendation before getting further along...

and :ww:

 

[quinletc]

With all linkage in, but lower rod not against the clutch fork arm, does the pedal operate freely and everything move in the correct direction?

Rule out any possible mistakes putting the linkage back together first is my recommendation before getting further along...

Unfortunately, yes, it moves freely and correctly when the lower rod is not pushing against the throwout lever.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

:ww:

It does sound like it's time to go inside the bell housing. You will need to pull the tranny for this.
Ck for what JR said.
Keep us updated on what you find. Pictures would be able to help others.
LG

 

[JR74CJ5]

Might be able to pull inspection plate first and peer in there (if it has one) but getting things lined up again without removing the tranny is dang near impossible...

At least you might see what is going on inside. You might be lucky enough to just have to push something back into place, though if that is the case you probably still are going to have the issue again as it "shouldn't" jam in there...

Rotten luck - but you can check out the clutch and replace if needed while in there at least... Maybe fix a leaking rear seal on the engine? That's what I did - find positives to a crappy situation

 

[quinletc]

Might be able to pull inspection plate first and peer in there (if it has one) but getting things lined up again without removing the tranny is dang near impossible...

At least you might see what is going on inside. You might be lucky enough to just have to push something back into place, though if that is the case you probably still are going to have the issue again as it "shouldn't" jam in there...

Rotten luck - but you can check out the clutch and replace if needed while in there at least... Maybe fix a leaking rear seal on the engine? That's what I did - find positives to a crappy situation

Yeah, at this point, I think I am resigned to pulling it all out and seeing what's what.

Kinda sucks that I already drained and refilled the tranny and Transfer Case . Those fill holes are not user friendly. At least I can just catch what I drain this time and put it back in, since it hasn't ever been used.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

Why drain?
LG

 

[quinletc]

Why drain?
LG

It's in the instructions for how to remove the tranny and Transfer Case .

Not necessary?

 

[Lumpy Grits]

Do you keep the tranny and t'case bolted together?
LG

 

[quinletc]

That's up for discussion, but since I don't have access to a Transmission jack, I am thinking I should probably separate them.

 

[Torxhead]

The T-150 and the Dana 20 tcase both weigh around 85 lbs each. So if you feel like bench pressing those, you will be fine.

 

[JR74CJ5]

Draining would make it all a lot lighter.

If it were me at the point you're in, and you have a buddy to help, I'd use a couple floor jacks and board / straps and be careful. I'd pull them down together still. Then, if you find something easy to fit, you can stab them back in together.

If, however, you're by yourself, and / or wish to do it the safer way etc - You're on the right path with draining and separating probably.

 

[Posi]

Those fill holes are not user friendly. At least I can just catch what I drain this time and put it back in, since it hasn't ever been used.

I use a pump attached to a 5 gallon bucket. You can pick one up from $25-$80 depending on your flavor.

http://www.mscdirect.com/product/de...TRhgPkS_sV-0TwjfzcMMJpny_3K677d1AYaAkhG8P8HAQ

When I was at Bill D's house prepping my CJ for the Silverton Trail Run I was missing my pump. I was at Oreillys picking up parts when I found a small pump for $10 that did the trick. I just screwed it onto the quart or gallon container. It worked great, and perfect for those that don't buy lube 5 gallons at a time. Also good for trail use.

Performance Tool W1139 - Fluid Pump | O'Reilly Auto Parts

 

[Lumpy Grits]

This is why I bought a tanny jack adapter for my floor jack.
Money well spent the first time you use it.
https://www.amazon.com/One-TonTransmission-Adapter-Jack-ATE10233/dp/B00080QGYG

LG

 

[quinletc]

While bench pressing 165 shouldn't be too bad in theory, it seems like a bad idea in practice.

Great ideas about the floorjack adapter and the pump. Thanks!

 

[Lumpy Grits]

Where the jack adapter pays for itself is in the reinstall, with lining up the clutch shaft for seating into the pilot bearing.
LG

 

[quinletc]

Also, lets assume there's stuff broken inside the clutch housing. If I am going to replace the pressure plate, disc, and the bearings, what is a good basic kit to buy?

I am not going rock-crawling or mud-bogging. It may go down a muddy road a few times a year, and if I really get it in shape, I might try a non-technical jeep trail in Middle TN.

If I can get it on Amazon Prime, that's nice, but I am in close proximity to AZ, Advance, O'Reilly, and NAPA stores.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

LUK of Centerforce 2.
Bet you a beer, your issue is related to the clutch fork.
As a CYA-Take pictures as you go, to help with reassembly. Don't forget to take notes for future reference.
LG

 

[quinletc]

LUK of Centerforce 2.

THANKS!

Bet you a beer, your issue is related to the clutch fork.

It sure would be nice, since I already have the parts to fix that.

 

[JR74CJ5]

I'm partial to centerforce clutch kits as well... there are a few options.

I decided I was tired of burning clutches, although my granny gear tranny swap helped greatly with the type of wheeling I do, that clutch is a giant help as well.

They're more expensive than a OE stock type, but I hate pulling my tranny...