cutting shimstock

[IOPort51]

This thread is about transmissions, shim stock, tools and bearings.

The t-18a that I suspect is a 1975 jeep. One of the points of interest is that the assembly drawings indicate that I should have a "spacer ring" between the snap ring and the case where the input bearing enters the case. Mine, is absent.

I have noticed that the input shaft has a bit more end play than I would expect which indicates the bearing retainer is not doing a sufficient job of restraining the bearing and/or the roller bearings between the input and the main shaft are incredibly worn.

The rabbit that the snap ring should be the thickness of the snap ring plus a couple thousandths, Mine is about .025 deeper than the snap ring is thick. this allows the bearing to rock.

If I cut a .02 shim to go behind the ring It will give me .05 clearance which should take a lot of play out of the shaft end. This also opens the 3-4 synchronizer up .025

The second possibility is to turn the face of the bearing retainer 025 and make the rabbit shallower. This also has an affect on 3-4 synchronizer.

And the bearings and the races at the input to main shaft point look good.


Now for the really important question, anybody have a trick and cool way of cutting shim stock into a ring whose ID is maybe a 1/4" smaller than the OD ??

I am considering .025 piano wire as well, 3 or four turns but it would be a problem keeping it in position.


I have found a web site that has a great way to cut the shim but it takes a day and a half to make the tooling. A lot of work for one shim, even if it is perfect. I don't see needing another in this life time.

 

[Torxhead]

IO, by any chance could you install 2 snap rings to fit? even possibility using different size snap rings. Or could you make that shim by using tin snips and filing the rough edges?

 

[Lumpy Grits]

Clamp the shim stock between 2 pieces of wood and just drill the hole.
Lot cheaper than buying a chassis punch for one use.
LG

 

[IOPort51]

the shim is 3.55 ID and 3.75 OD. Kind of narrow to cut with snips and too big to find a knock out punch.

thinking in this direction.

http://www.nclra.org/TechTopics/MakingHeadShims.pdf

 

[DHugg]

IO, I always pick the hardest way to do everything. That said, I'd try stiff brass wire bent into a circle around a 3.xx stock, ends tapered and soldered with 1800 degree silver solder. Then I'd pound the wire flat on an anvil with a BFH. Little scuffing on heavy emery cloth to round the ridges.

Luck with it.

 

[Hedgehog]

I would try calling a Transmission shop and finding out how they do it, there might be an answer already available.

 

[73CJ]

First thing that comes to mind axle ring and pinion shims for Dana's. May be a D60?

How about a hole saw with shim stock sandwiched between thin aluminum?

 

[tarry99]

IO
You didn't say what the dimensions are both ID & OD but if you have a close tolerance lathe ....chuck up a piece of 1018 CR bar stock close to the OD cut the OD to size, bore the ID with a Boring Bar and take a good sharp cut off tool in the tool holder and take your .025 off .......you will need either trav-dials or DRO's on the lathe............might have to cut one then measure and make an adjustment on the second one to get it exact...............do it all the time.

 

[IOPort51]

I think I can do this. brilliant! ^^^^

 

[IOPort51]

I give you the most expensive (time) spacer ring not going into outer space, in the history of the world. It worked well actually. Thanks again terry

it is 3.75" OD, 3.55" ID, and .024" thick. A-36 hot rolled was what I had in the steel pile.

 

[tarry99]

I give you the most expensive (time) spacer ring not going into outer space, in the history of the world. It worked well actually. Thanks again terry

it is 3.75" OD, 3.55" ID, and .024" thick. A-36 hot rolled was what I had in the steel pile.

Glad that worked for you old Friend!
And Yes making one-off parts can be time both time consuming & expensive.