Dana 300 adapter plate

[DHugg]

As I broke the strain on the last top bolt (the one missing in one of the photos I was vectored to), I began to see txmsn fluid weeping out the hole in the tailstock of the Transmission where it connects to the Dana 300 ( see two attached jpgs).

That means to my simple mind a seal has leaked at the output end of the transmixer........ or is it a usual thing to see a drip every 4 seconds there?

I'm gonna go through Chilton's and Moses Ludel's books; think I saw something on this. but someone with more experience chime in, please.

BTW, Driver007, the single shifter shaft to my Dana 300 IS threaded, not a smooth pass-through like yours. The speedo connector is different, and probably a bunch of other things. I'll try to post a list when I'm done.

The best way I found to get at the Dana 300 top bolts was to remove the floor plate holding the rubber boot for the shifter.

 

[yellow85cj]

That is the simple and correct answer. The hole is there for just that purpose to indicate a bad seal. The seal is in the Transmission housing. When you split the t case from the Transmission you will see it.

 

[DHugg]

Re: HELP! Dana 300 Input shaft cover bolt head hole stripping

Breaking down a Dana 300 Transfer Case on the bench, I got all six flat-head tapered screws of the input shaft cover started out with minor force needed. One of them, at about 1 O'Clock in the attached photo, seemed to hang at about 1/8 inch extraction. I put some good machine oil into the threads and worked it back in to release the binding.

Now it has decided it likes it there and won't extract! The extractor hole seems very soft steel and is burring, rounding.

Ludel in Jeep CJ Rebuilding Manual Pg 159 says the screw head holes are hex-head.... not mine! They are T125 star holes and may not be original.

Can someone who has dealt with this before give me some good advice on how to go ahead? The very last thing I need to do is booger up the screw hole threads or damage the seat!

 

[DHugg]

Re: Dana 300 adapter plate - screw removed

I didn't really expect someone to offer me a Silver Bullet like the Lone Ranger.

I went ahead and drilled a guide hole maybe 1/8 inch dia. and about 2/3 of an inch deep. I came back with a progression of drill bits, large to smaller, going about 3/16 deep each bit rotation. When I thought it was good enough, the screw remover, about 1-1/4 inch long and tapered, bottomed out so I went back with a bit more 1/8th dia.

The screw broke in half on the first extraction attempt. I doctored up the tapered hole a bit and with about equal caution and force, got the second half to come out.

The threaded hole goes completely through the case. Likely there was gummed gunk holding the back side of the screw. I'll replace these with shorter and harder screws, hex-sockets like the book says.

Here's a picture for you when it is your turn, and if you work on Jeeps, everyone gets a chance to try this!

 

[driver007]

I was working on a drag line in a coal mine when I had the same thing happen on a 1.5" diameter bolt. Worked on it all day could not budge it. A old timer came along drilled it out . The drilling released the preassure and it came out no problem. Some times tapping on them lightly and putting oil on them over a period of days works also. Every time you walk by tap on it lightly

 

[DHugg]

Today's adventure was breaking loose the two hex set screws that grip the shifter arms. They are 3/16th ID and of course take a 3/16th hex wrench. Which I didn't have - dozen of the immediately smaller, 3 or 4 of the next up.

Went to Autozone, closest to me, and got an $8 long set just to cut up the 3/16th into two inch lengths with a Dremel 420 HD cutting wheel. I used a piece of wire inserted into the receiver of a 1/4 drive 3/16 socket for a binder and hammered the hex wrench section in. Used a 1/4 to 3/8 drive adapter so the long 3/8 extension wouldn't twist. The first, higher in the case, set screw came out OK. The second one was tighter than <-BAD WORD->'s Hat Band and split the 3/16 socket. I got a new socket, same treatment, and with much resistance to heavy ratchet pressure, the second one popped free.

I'm going to buy a 3/8 drive socket set of hex wrenches, good quality. Novak even warns about stripping the head way down inside the TCase. Too scary!

BTW - the speedo connector is a big hex-head requiring a quite large but thin-walled socket to remove it. I'll take a couple of photos tomorrow and post the socket size, in case someone else comes up with this job to do.