Dana 300

Dana 300
I think Jimbo may have layed it out for me perfectly. I really like the idea of the 727 and the 300, but will it work with my current axles? Remember I have the offset rear due to the quadra trac. Also will it bolt up to the AMC 360 without adapters? If it will then I will start my search for a 727 tranny and a Dana 300 Transfer Case .

The only other question I have is that my front hubs dont have a manual lock, I'm guessing that they are always locked due to fact that the quadra trac is basically an all wheel drive system. Will I have to replace the front hubs for the 300 to work?
 
Aghhh I just typed a 3 paragraph reply and my phone lost it

Swapping an AMC 727 into a CJ

Here's a write up on the 727-300.

The front end has drive slugs and can easily be changed to warn or after market locking hubs.

The rear depends on how much the offset is. An inch you might be ok.. 6 inches ?? Dicey. If you have to get drive shafts made get double cardans to help with any drive line angles in the future.
If I'm motivated enough after work today I'll try to give some more info.
 
You will need a new rear, yours is offset to much.
 
I believe you missed part of Jimbos post , the hubs can easily be replaced with some Part time Warn hubs.We never really got an answer of what you want out of this Jeep? Its important so we can give you more detailed info.

If you dont like the full time 4wd of your Cj you can get a kit for your Cj . Heres an example. Mile Marker Part 95-15204 - Quadra-Trac Part Time Conversion Kit by Mile Marker for Jeep

We just need to know what you want out of your Jeep and we can help point you in the right direction.

I think Jimbo may have layed it out for me perfectly. I really like the idea of the 727 and the 300, but will it work with my current axles? Remember I have the offset rear due to the quadra trac. Also will it bolt up to the AMC 360 without adapters? If it will then I will start my search for a 727 tranny and a Dana 300 Transfer Case .

The only other question I have is that my front hubs dont have a manual lock, I'm guessing that they are always locked due to fact that the quadra trac is basically an all wheel drive system. Will I have to replace the front hubs for the 300 to work?
 
Its going to be a moderate to heavy trail rig, but i also want it to be able to travel long distances on the highway if needed. The rig will not be doing any rediculous rock crawling or mud slinging, but I want it to be able to handle some pretty sticky off road terrain. I know that I am going to put lockers in both front and rear axles eventually so I guess if that is in my plans then it will be able to do some heavy off roading if needed. It will most just be going trail riding and see some mud/rocks/snow here and there.

If i'm going to have to find a new rear axle to do the 727/300 swap wouldn't it just be easier to go ahead and get both front and rear axles of my choice whether it be Dana 44s or whatever else I may decide to put under it?

I don't mind the full time 4wd, but If I replace my tcase and go with a Dana 300 , it won't work with the full time setup I have right now. Correct?
 
If you swap in the 300 the front will work with out modifying it. The reason the swap out to locking hubs is in its current set up atleast one tire will still be turning your axle shaft which will be turning your R&P and drive shaft. Not really a big deal since that's how it works now. May cause a little extra drag and wear. If you swap in the selectable hub it will keep all those extra internals from rotating when your no in 4wd. Also they act as sort of a weak point in the system so if you were to bind it up it "should pop" a hub before it breaks some thing more expensive and harder to replace on the trail. Alot of heavy duty trail rigs run drive slugs in the front but most are just that trail rigs.

As far as axles go getting them both at the same time has a few advantages. If your planning on running them with out regearing them at first then a matched set should give you a matching set of gears. It will also keep you from have a strong rear and weak front. Getting them separately give you more choices to pick and chose. If you find the rear you want and throw it under there and te gears are not the same as the front ou can off road it. You could drive it until you get the right geared front but no 4wd.

Keep you eye open for deals on matched pairs. If you find a set of built axles with the gear ratio you want for say 1000-1200 that's a steal since to get 2 axles locked and regeared will run between 2-3k Check craigslist list, jeepforum.com, and searchtempest.com. Search tempest will let you check all the local craigslist ads with out having to constantly change city's.

To bad your far from FL there is a local gut that has a set of CJ axles locked with 4:56 gears for $400. Just be pt and keep an eye open.
 
Just for an example to keep your eyes open for

TWO SETS of DANA 44s passenger side drop disk fronts drum rears 4.10

The set that is 5x5.5 he is asking I think 300 for. It already has 3:54 gears in it. I would call him and see what he did to it for the 850, I would think for 850 it might have a locker in it. It might be a straight botl in set for you. If not the other set he is asking 200 for would be a good deal.

Here's why.
It's a matched set of 4:10's
The rear is offset but already has 4:10's in it. If these were closer to me I would grab em, use the front for my rig, pull the ring and pinion out of the rear, sell the shafts on IFSJA.org for about $50, strip the brake parts since you never know what you may need and scrap the axle tube for another $30.

That would give you a front 44 for $120 with 4:10's and a set of 4:10 gears to swap when you find a centered 44 rear. the 4:10's new would set you back 250-300..
 
Actually if it were me I would show up at his place with a trailer and $400 and take em both.
 
I'm going to call this guy today to see what he will tak for these. Winston Salem NC isn't too far from me and I could make it there and back in about six hours.

Jimbo, so pretty much what your saying is to buy whatever I see that may contain parts that ill need in the future and just resell the rest? I didn't really want to do that due to the fact its gonna cost, but if I can find deals like the one you posted then Ill probably come out ahead.

Once I get a set of axles, I'll want to wait to put them in because a centered up rear wont work with my setup anyways. So Ill have to get my Tranny and Tcase before I can actually put any axles under the jeep right?
 
I'm going to call this guy today to see what he will tak for these. Winston Salem NC isn't too far from me and I could make it there and back in about six hours.

Jimbo, so pretty much what your saying is to buy whatever I see that may contain parts that ill need in the future and just resell the rest? I didn't really want to do that due to the fact its gonna cost, but if I can find deals like the one you posted then Ill probably come out ahead.

Once I get a set of axles, I'll want to wait to put them in because a centered up rear wont work with my setup anyways. So Ill have to get my Tranny and Tcase before I can actually put any axles under the jeep right?

Yes you will have to wait till you get the other parts together before you can swap out your axles.

This Dana 300 says it will only work with '80 to '86 CJs. Can I make it work with a 727 tranny and Dana 44 front and rear axles?

Jeep CJ Dana 300 Transfer Case 80 81 82 83 84 85 86 | eBay

Thats just the years it came in a stock Cj. Thats what your looking for. Ive dealt with that Ebay seller quite a few times. Good guy.
 
Jimbo, so pretty much what your saying is to buy whatever I see that may contain parts that ill need in the future and just resell the rest? I didn't really want to do that due to the fact its gonna cost, but if I can find deals like the one you posted then Ill probably come out ahead.


What Im saying is keep an open mind when looking at parts like axles, motor/Transmission /TC combos and "project" jeeps.

Im kinda stuck in the same predicument as you with the off set rear. Im talking to a guy at the moment with a set of J-10 44 axles that already have a set of 4:10 in them for $400.00 The only part that Im interested in is the rear. I'm gonna try to get them for $300. Since I dont need the 4;10s I can resell the gear sets for a couple hundred. or set them up in the rear Im not using and sell them to some one with a waggy that wants a set of 4:10 and should be able to easily get my 300 back if not more.

The only thing is if your on a tight budget you may get stuck with these parts until you find a buyer so if you dont have the room it might not be a good option. you need to start looking up what parts cost new, for example a new set of 4;10's will easily run 200-300 each set so if you wanted 4:10 you can dish out 4-600 for the ring and pinion new or try to get a set of good used ones for 2-300. Also there are cut offs for carriers.. I think the 44's cut off at 3.73 so if you were upgrading from a set of 3:54's to 4:10 and buying new you would also have to buy 2 new carriers (the part that holds the ring gear) they run about 60-AMC 150 depending if you get new spider gears with them. so your new set of 4:10s now will run you close to 900 and you havent even bought the install kits and paid some one to install them.

For motors, Transmission and T-cases.. to find a running 360 your looking up to 5-600 a good 727 3-700 and a Dana 300 2-300. I can normally find 360/727/208 together for 500-800. you already have the 360 so if you dont want to keep it for a spare you sell it for 400 just to get rid of it and the 208 for another 250 so now your 800 combo turns into a 727 for $AMC 150

Buying projects/POS jeeps for parts. If Im buying POS or parts/project jeeps I look at what they are worth in parts more then the jeep as a whole. The buid Im doing for a friend started off as a $300 pile of parts and totes full of stuff. No body and looked like sheit. with the exception of the boddy every thing else was there, every bracket, handle, hinge, linkage.. every thing. It also had a set of brand new 33's on it we sold the same day we picked it up for 400, then turned that 400 around and bought a complete body and all the sheet metal. I was ok with shelling out the Money for Johns project because I new the Dana 300 was atleast 200 and the tires would get 400... so even if it was the piggest most rotted POS out there I still wouldnt lose money on it

Heres the devil advocate part of my methods
#1 - takes alot of time and searching/listing. Im on at least 5-6 different forums along with craigslist. luckily both of my jobs allow me to spend a stupid amount of time on the internet.

#2 - you have to be willing to put up the investment. this isnt a quick turn around process. If you blow a Transmission dont try shopping around to get one.. just man up and buy/repair. but if you have a 999 and you come across a good deal on another grab it and stash it. remeber the price of parts will always triple when you have to have it.

#3 - you have to know what to look for in a part. if your buying a rear make sure you pull the diff cover and look at the gears. rotate them and check for damage, missing brake parts, etc.. If your going to by a motor bring the tools need to atleast pull the valve covers, spark plugs and turn the motor over by hand. If some one wont let you go through a diff or turn a motor over walk away from it. If Im selling axles or motors I make sure to open them up for the buyer be fore we exchange money.

#4 - deals that are too good to be true normally are. My $1000 waggy was an exception.. I only started it and never looked at the axles or any other parts.. between the new 37's and running 360 I knew I would be ahead of the game if the rest of it was garbage and broke.

So to recap this long post.. yes dont be afraid to buy whole parts for little expensive pieces but be careful not to get screwed. Im also on an acre of land with a 1.5 car garage and 8x12 shed to store jeep stuff in.

If you have any questions on prices for parts and what to look for dont be afraid to post the question on the forum or give me a PM..
 
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To give you an idea.. this thing more then likely has the 44 front, either 44 or 20 rear, running 360, 727 and 208. If I had a project thet needed a drivetrain every thing on this can be swapped into the CJ. I would go there with a screw driver and start poking it into the rust spots. the more wholes you find the more you can talk him down.. crawl over, and under it, check under the seats, carpet, check the fluids.. probably spend a good 30 minutes monkeying around with it knowing the 1500 wouldnt be to bad for the amount of big parts in it. I would then bring up all the issues and amount f money needed to repair, fix, and make it Good looking again then try to haggle him down to 1000.. I would give him 1200 for it max.

http://orlando.craigslist.org/cto/2465955813.html

heres how the part out value would price.
motor 500
Transmission 300
208 200
axles 350 to get rid of them 44/20 or 500 for the 44/44
the under dash AC set up AMC 150
steering colum 100
steering box 50
plus the scrap weight of the body and frame 200

that ends up being around 1850 if you had to part it out not counting the little parts you can sell on ebay, or IFSJA.org. there is a die hard group of waggy fans out there that love to buy original parts. the little whire peice that indicates what gear your in will fetch $30 alone.
So if you were to by it for 1200 keep the drive train you can still part out the bigger parts and scrap it for a $500 gain meaining you just spent $700 on a motor Transmission , Transfer Case , and axles. Dosent sound to bad to me!

also keep an eye open for J-10s too. there parts will swap into CJ's
http://orlando.craigslist.org/pts/2511432113.html

not the 360 but I would look at it
http://charleston.craigslist.org/cto/2519423826.html

or this one
http://columbia.craigslist.org/cto/2461623571.html

or this one
http://augusta.craigslist.org/cto/2487822231.html

se what this guy has
http://myrtlebeach.craigslist.org/pts/2467143357.html

or this
http://greenville.craigslist.org/cto/2520641355.html

http://asheville.craigslist.org/cto/2469327985.html

http://savannah.craigslist.org/cto/2511857222.html

http://wilmington.craigslist.org/pts/2504135474.html

these are just a few from SC.. if your looking for one to get the axles from you want the 74-80 models. 73 and older they had closed knucles 81 and up they went to drivers side diff's. you can find 81's with passenger side drop every now and then. If you wanted to swap the whole drive train then you can grab anything newer then 73.
 
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Wow...I'm loving this site. Thanks for all the information. My search has already begun and im talking to a guy right now about a rebuildable Dana 300 for $200. And another guy that has a 727 that I'm going to make an offer on tomorrow. Slowly but surely I will get my parts together and turn my jeep into a beast over the next year or so.
 
Good job.. Keep in mind the more you upgrade the more you will find weak points. CJ frames could alwasy use reinforcing, Look into heavy duty shackle hangers for the front and rear and install a power steering brace at minimum or a brace and heavy duty mount for the box. then come disc brakes
 
I already have discs on the front, but I would love to change the rears to discs as well. I hate drum brakes with a passion.
 

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