Gotta make sure the rear tires measure the same dia. Not just using the same tire psi.
Sure would like to see some pictures of the bust'd DL.
I've been run'n DL's for 22+ years in the front and rear with no issues.
LG
I'm with Lumpy Grits.
I've been driving them, racing them for over 40 years with little or no issues.
He's right about two things here, TIRE CIRCUMFERENCE is critical on the street.
Popping issues on pavement in a straight line are a sign the differential is getting loaded side to side, locking and unlocking at times it shouldn't.
Just because the side wall SAYS the tires are the same size, doesn't mean they are.
Radials are often up to 10% difference in circumference, and it gets worse as they 'Grow' taller under centrifugal force when rolling down the highway.
On my 'A/T' tires that were 33", there was a 4" difference between smallest and largest and that was sitting still!
No wonder I had steering and locker issues!
When you are running 4 different size tires the steering and lockers are going to suffer...
Got some brand name tires that were less than an inch difference between all 4 and the right pull went away, it didn't climb road ridges anymore,
And the locker quieted right down and behaved it's self...
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A note about tire pressure...
The side wall has a MAXIMUM pressure rating, you DO NOT have to run at Maximum, and Maximum will ALWAYS mess with a full locker...
Do the chalk on the tires test, see if you wear the chalk off the outside edges of the tire first, or the center first...
Outside edges means you are UNDER INFLATED, and the center of the tire will GROW LIKE CRAZY when you get up to highway speed since there is a ton of centrifugal force on the center,
While wearing the center first means you are OVER INFLATED, and the tire will 'Grow' very little when centrifugal forces get hold of it at highway speeds.
You just might find what I did, my back tires needed TWO DIFFERENT TIRE PRESSURES to keep them 'Even' during operation!
That SUCKS.
Name brand tires took care of those issues also...
So much for 'Big O' tires that came on the vehicle!
It was worth $500 to get rid of the headaches those tires caused!
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The second thing LG is correct about,
A locker will tell you in short order when you get a LOW tire!
Again, popping, locking at inappropriate times, ect.
The thing about Detroit Lockers is the SPACING between the locking halves.
If that spacing isn't correct (and you get shims to correct it) the locker will work it's self to death.
90% of the complaints I get that ARE NOT tires turns out to be spacing between locking halves.
Street driven, a little 'Loose',
Strictly off road or racing, a little 'Tight'...
And also remember, Jeeps pivot around a rear tire when they turn tight, so tight turns in a Jeep with a locker WILL cause a locker to lock, no matter what you do...
For that reason, I recommend a 'True Trac' in the back.
You still get at least 30% power to the tire WITH TRACTION, while you don't get ANY of the bad manners you get with a full on locker.
Rock roads will be a snap, no more wanting to swap ends in right hand intersections, no more watching tire pressure like a hawk, no more binding when turning while backing up...
NONE of the 'Bad Manners' the Detroits had.
If you have front lock outs, go ahead and run a full on locker in the front since you won't be running it on the street,
And since 80% of your weight is in the front, a front full on locker makes sense. The weight gives traction, just remember NOT to use the skinny pedal when the steering wheel is turned full lock or you WILL get very good at replacing front axle U Joints...
Full Power, Full Weight/Traction, Full Throttle and Full Steering Lock/U Joint bind don't get along well... But it does make for GREAT traction!
