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Differential gear pattern?

Differential gear pattern?
That makes more sense to me.

Gandpoint - actually has the closest pattern to mine, I can see I'm close. Deeper = higher pinion.

H-pattern - this is probably the most confusing with a WIDE range of acceptable gear patterns and mine does fall in their group of "Acceptable" patterns. Again with the possible exception of mine needing to be deeper.

The bearing puller I have was barrowed form a friend, it is a great tool. It works great on regular bearings, I'm not so sure about the pinion bearing though. We will see.
 
No not at all. THis is it.

G2 Axle and Gear Part 80-BRGPLLR - G2 Clamshell Bearing Puller - 4 Wheel Parts

This thing is VERY gentle on bearings making set-up bearings all but worthless. Everybody that does this kind of work should have one. This one is expensive, there is a less expensive model out there.

The puller, the thing with the threads, goes over the bearing, the clamshell of the right size captures the bearing and race. There is an adjustment that tightens the clam shell and the race together, the rings you see go over the clam shell to keep everything nice and tight. With a wrench or I use an air impact driver you essentially ease the bearing off. Used properly it is almost impossible to ruin a bearing.

Here's a youtube video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CUqSZelTSfI

He doesn't realty use it correctly you are supposed to adjust the two collars until the race/bearing is captured. I don't use a wrench to tighten up the ring. You can use your fingers for that.

This video is better.:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mkPPwfzD8Vg

His language could use some work though.

Each clam shell covers two (2) bearing sizes.
 
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That has been a 'dream-tool' list of mine for many years.:notworthy:
I have used them a few times and IF I was in the R&G set up trade. I would own it.
Just remember to keep the threaded rod, well oiled.
LG
 
With the price of bearings these days it would pay for itself in no time. I'm borrowing this one from a friend, but I hate doing it. The longer I have this one the more I'm looking at purchasing one for myself, you can get one for ~$295.00. That is right on the cusp of reality.
 
"Reality' is dangerous to my wallet :D
:chug:
Me-IF, I was to buy that puller-I'd get the Yukon set that doez it all.:drool:
Buy once-CRY once.
LG
 
The less expensive one is the same with one fewer clam shell. If needed it can be purchased. The one I have doesn't have the great big shell and it works just fine for a jeeps needs.
 
Hedgehog said:
The less expensive one is the same with one fewer clam shell. If needed it can be purchased. The one I have doesn't have the great big shell and it works just fine for a jeeps needs.
Click to expand...

Your NOT helping-:D
:poke:
LG
 
Last night I needed some parts ... new pinion baffle .... pinion shims .... a race setting tool (the right tool for the job) ... a pinion seal .... a new pinion nut, the old one is getting scared up ....

Surprisingly enough, other than the preload shim pack, the only shim for the pinion was the baffle plate. A 0.0025" shim was added and all was banged together. Finding the right shims for the preload wasn't fun, but ultimately easy enough. My old bearings were in good shape so it didn't take a lot of thought set the preload.

The carrier will go in tonight and that fun will start once again.....
 
Fingers crossed.
LG
 
What a mess I made of things. I added the thinnest shim I had between the race and baffle plate. NOTHING worked, there was even some gear clash. It took the rest of the evening to return the pinion/ring gear back to where it all stated.
 
:eek:
What did that shim measure out at in thickness? You only need'd to add .002.
LG
 
I used the thinnest one I had, I believe it was 0.0025", it could have been a 0.005". Yes, I did use a caliper to measure the shim. But to be perfectly honest I don't remember which it was. These past few days I've measured a bunch of shims.

No new news, last night I took the night off CJ work. A little girl needed her violin fret board reset, that kept me busy enough.
 
IMO-it's best to measure shims with a micrometer that reads to .0000.
A .005 shim in place of the .002, would screw things up. And easily explain the gear clash you now have.
FWIW: When I set-up a R&P. I measure with a micrometer every shim in the old set-up. I use a sharpie and label each shim with the thickness, and lay them out in order on my bench.
Good luck with the set-up! :chug:
LG
 
I don' have a micrometer, but my Caliper is good enough. I did as you do, measured every shim, marked it with a sharpie. Measured some several times.
 
If-a caliper was good enough-There wouldn't be micrometers :D
Calipers can't 'read' what a mic. can.
Saves from make'n mistakes-
LG
 
Lumpy - I'll give you that. However consider this an Indy car can go faster that a passenger car, but it appears that a passenger car goes fast enough.....
 
Hedgehog said:
Lumpy - I'll give you that. However consider this an Indy car can go faster that a passenger car, but it appears that a passenger car goes fast enough.....
Click to expand...

Indy cars are built one at a time using micrometers-:D:poke:
Fingers crossed that all goes well tonight.
LG
 
And they are good for about 500 miles......
 
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