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distributor upgrade

distributor upgrade
Stay with the std A/L plugs.
LG
 
DUI says to gap the A/L platinums at .55
Would you have a suggestion where to gap the standard A/L with the HEI?
 
I don't have fancy plugs in my CJ, but I gapped them at 55 and never looked back. Since we aren't dealing with a blower or nitrous or high compression I'm not at all convinced that the high dollar plugs are necessary.

For wires I went with the MSD universal kit where you cut your own wires. The kit comes with both standard spark plug ends and HEI ends. The kit also has a simple but very nice crimping tool. The end predict looks like a factory job. They aren't over priced either.

One thing that set me back some was actually finding spark plug wires. When I was a kid they were everywhere. Now cars don't have spark plug wires. The Coils are on the plugs. Never gave it a thought until I went shopping and it's like, "What you have to order spark plug wires!" A google search showed they were in stock at Pep Boys so I put my prejudice aside and bought a set from them.
 
Hope you mean .055 as .55 is over 1/2".
Run the same gap on the STD plugs as the plat.
Hint-Coat the plug threads with copper anti-seize and rub some dielectric grease inside the plug wiring boots.
LG
 
What Lumpy, you dont have enough voltage to run a 1/2" gap in your plugs???? That were you get the best gas mileage.

I am wore out typing, .055 not .55.
I am a firm believer in both copper and nickel anti-seize in there respective roles, I buy both anti-seize and die-electric grease in bulk for the company I run.
 
Formula 40PC said:
What Lumpy, you dont have enough voltage to run a 1/2" gap in your plugs???? That were you get the best gas mileage.

I am wore out typing, .055 not .55.
I am a firm believer in both copper and nickel anti-seize in there respective roles, I buy both anti-seize and die-electric grease in bulk for the company I run.
Click to expand...

Know well of what you mean. :D
I try not to post till after at least 1 cup of coffee. :laugh:
Never seen 'nickel' A/S. Only copper and alum based. :confused:
:chug:
LG
 
Now that we have ironed out my plugs, gapping and plug wires does anyone have ideas on what components I can get rid of in the current ignition system?
 
Really isn't much that you can do without. '76 is pretty basic.
LG
 
I know I can get rid of the coil, obviously.
How about the resistor? The HEI need full 12volt power so I am assuming that I can ditch it.

What about the voltage regulator? Is that just regulating the voltage coming out of the alternator?
 
You MUST have a voltage regulator in place, or you'll fry and 'cook' your system. That's why they are there in ALL vehicles ;)
Unless the coil is built(very few are)for constant 12-14vdc feed, keep the resistor.
" I know I can get rid of the coil, obviously." NO, you can't :eek:
Don't 'assume' anything-Do research.
GOOGLE is your friend here.
:chug:
 
The DUI HEI unit needs at least a consistent full 12 volts therefore removing the resistor would make that happen.
The DUI HEI distributor has a new high energy coil incorporated into the cap. Why would I need to keep my existing coil? I thought the point of the DUI HEI and other HEI systems was to cut down on ignition parts and wiring spread throughout the engine compartment.
 
I thought you were talk'n about the HEI coil. :o :rolleyes: MY BAD:notworthy:
Just did a bit of check'n, you can(and should)feed the HEI, 12vdc.
LG
 
If you really want to get rid of a separate voltage regulator you can remove it and get an alternator with a built in regulator. Even better you can get a single wire Alternator. I have that set up and have absolutely no problems.
 
I am just trying to eliminate as much clutter and wiring in the engine compartment, #1 for aesthetics & #2 less wiring=less to go wrong and troubleshoot.
Do you have a part # for this single wire alternator?? That sounds appealing.
 
Just got my new DUI HEI distributor delivered and went to go drop it in to make sure everything fit before swapping gears aaannnndddddd DOESNT FIT IN THE DARN HOLE. (If I just had a dollar for every time I have been told that it doesnt fit in the hole!!!)
And DUI isnt answering their phones at 3pm CST.
I am not a happy camper right now. I thought this was a direct drop in, not that I was going to have to use my machining skills.
 
:eek:
How far off is the fit?:confused:
Are you sure you rec'd the correct dizzy, and that it could'nt be a 'miss-boxed' deal? I've had that happen to me a few times. Why I don't like to buy on-line.
LG
 
The box has the correct # per the DUI website. The actual part # isnt on the distributor, looks like a serial# and 24 degree @ 3000 etched into the bottom. Thats why I was trying to call DUI and make sure it was the correct unit.

I am seriously considering running to NAPA and grabbing the motorcraft dist, cap, rotor and a new coil and sending this DUI unit back.
 
I'm still run'n the OEM dizzy with those upgrades.
Make sure the cap has brass contacts.
Don't forget to put 2-3 drops of engine oil on the 'wick' of the dizzy shaft that's under the rotor.
LG
 
My current dist. gear looks a little worn. I would assume it is mated well with the cam gear after all these year, this dist. looks to have been in the engine for a looonnggg while, its not the original though, says reman. under the dist. base.
 
I have an option of single vac advance or dual.
Am I correct when I say single?
Not there is even room for a second.
 
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