Drive train paint

[driver007]

I plan to pull the drive train out of my 76 CJ5 . Can anyone tell me what the colors of the T-18 , Dana 20 would have been. I surmise they were black. Was the AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l all AMC blue? Were certain things on the motor painted different? Will a rattle can paint job last on the tranny and Transfer Case . Should a person prime? I have pulled a AMC 304 with the 176 and a 300 Dana before. Do you have to remove the stick like the Dana to remove the t18. I want to pull reseal and replace and would like it to last so I could use some direction on witch way to go in regards to painting etc.

 

[GARGOYLEJEEPER]

Chassis Black
AMC Blue
Motor parts are either aluminum, AMC blue or chassis black.
For restoring info go to "The AMC Forum"
The AMC Forum, American Motors Discussion Forums

Will it last, that depends on how well you prep it, prime, paint & clear coat it.

Your cover will allow removal without stick removal, but it makes it harder, and if you are not lifted you will have a hard time getting it from under the Jeep. So on the T-18 unscrew and pull it out (the shifter).

 

[Peanut Butter]

Eastwood Engine Painting Kit

The better the prep - the better the paint will stick! Also, the better the paint - the better it will stick!

That being said, Use a good engine paint. It is designed for high heat. I used Eastwood's ceramic engine paint. It is a two part urethane. Cost of the kit is $39.00 which is not too bad. You can spray it or brush it. I used a rattle can of VHT on the Transmission .......wished I'd used the other. Some people use regular automotive paint. Like they spray the body, but to me unless you are using the same color for everything, I feel it is too much trouble. The Eastwood paint comes in every color you would need. Rod

 

[hole]

Personally, I like to paint all the drivetrain components any bright color you like because its easier to see/ find leaks down the road.

I'm fond of Chrysler blue to get this job done

 

[HackFabrication]

Personally, I like to paint all the drivetrain components any bright color you like because its easier to see/ find leaks down the road.

I'm fond of Chrysler blue to get this job done

Did mine in Rustoleum Royal Blue for the same reason:



Dings and scrapes are just a pint can and paint brush from being fixed.

 

[Posi]

Engine paint code EN-66 I used Seymour paint, gloss black tranny/tcase

 

[Old Dog]

Personally, I like to paint all the drivetrain components any bright color you like because its easier to see/ find leaks down the road.

I'm fond of Chrysler blue to get this job done

Did mine in Rustoleum Royal Blue for the same reason:



Dings and scrapes are just a pint can and paint brush from being fixed.

Good idea guys, I never really thought about it before

 

[driver007]

Nicely done men. What cleaning tips can you give?

 

[HackFabrication]

Soap, water, and an assortment of brushes. I've used everything from Simple Green to Dawn dish soap to Tide laundry detergent. Remove the caked on stuff with a putty knife, screwdriver, or whatever is necessary to scrape it off. Then scrub, scrub, scrub. Rinse, Rinse, Rinse. Then let Dry, Dry, Dry. Cast iron is porous and will take longer to dry. A light surface rust isn't a problem, especially if you use the right primer.

I actually 'primed' most of everything with POR-15, then top coated it with the Royal Blue. You've got to do the top coat before the POR-15 dries completely (needs to be barely tacky) or it won't stick.

 

[dschwab]

For cleaning I have had really good luck using oven cleaner. The odor free stuff doesn't seem to work as well. I just use it as directed on the side of the can.

 

[hole]

After assembly I pressure washed everything well then a final spray down with brake kleen before paint.

 

[Peanut Butter]

Here is my engine and tranny. Tranny is the Chevy version of the GM Turbo 400 , thus the orange. Rod

Before:



After:



And the Whole Thing:

 

[Hedgehog]

It probably isn't proper, but my Transmission appeared to be painted a grey color so it was painted Ford Grey. It absolutely is not proper, but when I work on a part of my engine it gets a nice new coating of Old Ford Blue.

 

[Tinman22]

Your GM Turbo 400 is a Buick,olds,Pontiac or B.O.P pattern not Chevy. The only differences (other than the bell housing) are internal. When looking for parts definitely refer to the aluminum tag riveted too the side of the case. The codes are on the Internet. It may also be a th375 many of the bop trannys were. still an awesome Transmission . (Probably why it looks like olds red in the first pic)

 

[driver007]

I think I have engine envy. Can't wait to get at it. How many primer coats.

 

[Peanut Butter]

I think I have engine envy. Can't wait to get at it. How many primer coats.

I didn't use any primer with the Eastwood paint, just a very extensive cleaning. Rod

 

[rlitavecz]

Any color that I have on the shelf is better than a rusty, grease covered part

 

[Peanut Butter]

Your th400 is a Buick,olds,Pontiac or B.O.P pattern not Chevy. The only differences (other than the bell housing) are internal. When looking for parts definitely refer to the aluminum tag riveted too the side of the case. The codes are on the Internet. It may also be a th375 many of the bop trannys were. still an awesome trans. (Probably why it looks like olds red in the first pic)

Thanks for the input Tinman. I always assumed it was a Chevy Transmission . So I dug up my pictures and decoded the ID Plate and serial number. This is what I found: 1973 Cadillac made in MI. Then I went outside and looked at my spare transmission that has the Jeep bolt hole housing. The ID plate is pictured below. Definitely Jeep, but not sure what model it original came in. So far, I haven't been able to find those codes. I think I'll compile all the information I gathered for a technical article on the GM Turbo 400 found in some Jeeps. Thanks again, :driving: Rod

Current Transmission:


Spare Transmission: