Build Thread Father/Son Project in Orlando

Build Thread Father/Son Project in Orlando
It also has somewhat changed my outlook in general. I used to think that being a good dad meant being an earner and showing your kids that they should strive hard to be great at what ever their chosen profession. Now I've had a chance to rethink it and maybe it's something else that I haven't quite figured out yet. It's on the tip of my tongue but not quite there yet, but I think it has to do with sometimes wishing your kids had to earn their bones the way you did, but at the same time being glad they don't have to.

anyways thanks to you all it's greatly appreciated.


Being 40 and a father of 2 I totally get it. I started my jeep for the sole reason of my kids, and the memories that I had as a kid with my mother and father.

Being a Jeepaholic isn't just about the Jeep... in the end it is all about the family and the memories that you share with others in that jeep.

A Jeep is just a truck... but when you add Family, Friends, Community, and finally a Countries Patriotism... then you have a legacy of love, life, and liberty! :D
 
I would recommend making sure it all fits and works before you paint it it is a lot easier to fix it now not after you have painted it just my 2 cents. Looks like your son is having a blast with this project it's something he will remember for the rest of his life. You guys are doing a great job :chug:
:popcorn:

MtnWhlr..... Great suggestion which actually served two purposes. First it actually helped to calm our nerves that I had spent 8 hrs fixing a hood that I had actually ruined... so we put the tub on the floor of the garage, bolted on the fenders and the grill. From looking at the outside it was obvious there was some asymmetry, but we couldn't figure out where it came from. Sebastian had the idea of sitting in the engine bay to allow him to see the problem from the inside, and true to form it was from the area that I bent back to make the repairs.

So we ground out the area and Sebastian welded it down... put the hood back on and its much better, but you can see from the picture there is about 1/2 an inch of asymmetry along the hood, at the 3 oclock position of the drivers headlight as compared to the hood of the 9 oclock position of the passenger side headlight. I am hoping that once I order the hood hinges that it will tighten things up so that we can see what we need to do to make it cosmetically near perfect.

The other thing that it accomplished was it really motivated Sebastian now that he could kind of see what the final product is going to look like. His comment was "This is Jeep is going to be bad As".... I gave him that look and his response was "I didn't add the s, so I'm ok". It is hard to imagine that in 9 months we have gotten this far..... but so long to go.

If someone can give us some suggestions.... I think after we primer the body, we will start reassembling the suspension. We are going to run a stainless steel brake and fuel lines.... with the thought of putting in the 360 with fenderwell headers, do we run the lines on the inside or the outside of the frame?
 
The next thing we tackled was welding the piece from the donor grill that goes over the cage nut on our grill. I was really nervous about what it would look like, but we were really happy with the result. below are the before and after.

One more endorsement.... we got he kit from Totally Stainless Steel, and broke open the box today (it's been sitting in the garage for the past 3 months. Let me tell you it is awesome. Firstly you won't have to worry about finding every bolt and nut you took off and where it's located. Then on top of it all every bag is individually labeled to make it super easy to locate what you are looking for it.... today we used "fenders"... 14 bolts and washers that were shiny new.
 
I think it is great that the boy is learning to weld at such a young age.:notworthy:

But...next thing you know he will be telling you that you are doing it wrong and then he will drag up on you because you shorted him half an hour of pay on a two week check. Hahaha!

Keep him learning, if my Dad hadn't taken the time to show me, I wouldn't have a clue what I'm doing and would be too afraid to attempt it.:chug::chug:
 
I'm glad I could help you guys, I learned a long time ago that you want to test fit eveything before paint and powdercoat it will save you alot of headaches in the long run. This is one of my favorite threads because of the fact you and your son are doing it and he is learning as much as you are :) :popcorn:
 
I think it is great that the boy is learning to weld at such a young age.:notworthy:

But...next thing you know he will be telling you that you are doing it wrong and then he will drag up on you because you shorted him half an hour of pay on a two week check. Hahaha!

Keep him learning, if my Dad hadn't taken the time to show me, I wouldn't have a clue what I'm doing and would be too afraid to attempt it.:chug::chug:
I agree 110%. I am thankful I had a dad to teach me the simple things as turning a wrench and how to use a stick welder. Trade skills are a lost art for most of the current generations :(
 
I agree 110%. I am thankful I had a dad to teach me the simple things as turning a wrench and how to use a stick welder. Trade skills are a lost art for most of the current generations :(

In the defense of this slacker generation, I can't can't get my fat fingers into the tight spots of these new engines... my wife's van has apparently needs a special tool to turn the oil plug!!!! The man wants to keep you down and make sure you don't learn to change your own oil.
I'm afraid that this will be the last generation of vehicles that will be able to be restored.
 
In the defense of this slacker generation, I can't can't get my fat fingers into the tight spots of these new engines... my wife's van has apparently needs a special tool to turn the oil plug!!!! The man wants to keep you down and make sure you don't learn to change your own oil.
I'm afraid that this will be the last generation of vehicles that will be able to be restored.
Thats because the are throw away just like everything else you buy nowadays, thats what is wrong with the world today. Nothing is made to last.
 
So we are tracking along, trying to make some progress. I have a couple of things with the frame that are nagging me....
1. one of the frame body mount brackets needs to replaced,
2. the rear crossmember needs to be welded in.
3. a couple of the internal frame bolts for the steering bracket/shackle hangers broke and need to be replaced.
4. one of the bolts which holds the swaybar bracket to the frame broke off and I haven't been able to drill it out.

In the mean time my man got to learn to change out the brake pads in the Tundra
 
We are getting very close to running the fuel and brake lines. Since we are considering a AMC 360, I think I need to run the fuel line on the drivers side. If anyone can confirm for me the dimensions of those lines.. I have
Fuel line 5/16ths
Brake line 5/16ths
vapor line 5/16ths
fuel return line 1/4.

wanting to sort of learn about as much as the process as possible, we have started to powder coat many of the items, as opposed to painting. It has been a good learning experience as we got an old oven in the garage, then ran a 600v extension cord to the dryer 220v outlet.

Does anyone see anything wrong with powder coating the fuel and brake lines?
I will post some pics of the powder coating shortly.
 
here is a picture of the bolt from the passenger side rear portion of the sway bar bracket. I have drilled part of it out, but have broken several cobalt drill bits and worn 3 others down to a nub trying to get this drilled. I even tried heat, pb blaster.
It seems like when I used the smaller bits the middle drilled out fairly easily, but then the sides of the bolt folder over into the hole and it must be hardened because it is just breaking my drill bits.
Any suggestions???? do I take this to have a drill press do it? should I blow it off ?
 
So we are tracking along, trying to make some progress. I have a couple of things with the frame that are nagging me....
1. one of the frame body mount brackets needs to replaced,
2. the rear crossmember needs to be welded in.
3. a couple of the internal frame bolts for the steering bracket/shackle hangers broke and need to be replaced.
4. one of the bolts which holds the swaybar bracket to the frame broke off and I haven't been able to drill it out.

In the mean time my man got to learn to change out the brake pads in the Tundra

:)Will I must admit he must be enjoying himself as he always has a smile on his face! What does he do when he is not wrenching with Dad?

:D:D:D:D
 
here is a picture of the bolt from the passenger side rear portion of the sway bar bracket. I have drilled part of it out, but have broken several cobalt drill bits and worn 3 others down to a nub trying to get this drilled. I even tried heat, pb blaster.
It seems like when I used the smaller bits the middle drilled out fairly easily, but then the sides of the bolt folder over into the hole and it must be hardened because it is just breaking my drill bits.
Any suggestions???? do I take this to have a drill press do it? should I blow it off ?

:)So these are rusted and you have broken the nut off or you cannot get the nut off?
I would take a 1/16"cut-off wheel and wack off either end and drive it out with a drift punch. Thats the easy but messy way. If your drilling the shank , once you have a hole about 1/2 the diameter of the shank drilled, you should be able to take a nice drift punch with a 5 lb hammer and knock it out..............

:D:D:D:D
 
mean while my man is making progress getting the finishing touches on the tub and bondoing out the scrapes we made removing the paint... I think it should be ready to primer next week, or so I hope because it is starting to superficial rust in some places....
I do have to ask that how come every time I get a picture of my "partner" he is sitting around smiling like a super model.

In an unrelated story he asked how he could make some extra money... I gave it a think and came up with "I'll stop the lawn service and pay you $20 bucks a week to cut the grass". How many of you made $20 mowing a 1/4 acre lawn? I thought it was a good deal and we shook on it.
"but Dad we don't even have a lawn mower"
No worries, "I'll pick one up this week".....
I actually do sympathize with some kids these days. I started a paper route when I was in the third grade, shoveled snow in the winter and mowed lawns in the summer. Now we I can't remember the last time I saw a kid with the old school newspaper bag draped over the shoulder or and everyone gets their lawn done by a service.
For 3 days he's waiting for me to bring this lawnmower home... mostly because he thinks he will be cool, but I think he was genuinely excited about making some dough.
I finally find what I'm looking for on Craigslist.... for $90 bucks I got an old school reel mower... thats right just like on Leave it to Beaver. No engine, no gas, nothing to break down, just a one man show.
The look on his face was priceless when I unveiled his price.
 
So I have been working on obtaining this amc 360 for the last month or so and it looks like it's starting to firm up.
Jim, a jeep enthusiast, member of this site, local fella and all around good dude has spent a good deal of his time talking me through how to work on the jeep and get the most of what I'm doing. He has sold me parts, given me several parts and is a go to guy with jeep stuff It is obvious he is a guy that knows what he's doing, but most importantly he has always taken the time to patiently explain things to me that I know must be elementary to him, is honest and frankly just seems to love jeeps.
Jim shows me an amc 360 he had for a project but instead decided to use another engine. When I asked him about it he offered to sell it for $AMC 150 , with all the peripherals. He even offered to take it to the machinist to have it checked out.
I later found out that he needs a couple of things to complete his project... a tailgate (I bought his when he thought he didn't need it and I have the old one still there), a Dana 300 , and AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l motor mounts.
In the mean time I am looking for a Transmission as I know my T-5 isn't going to fly with a 360 and find a T-176 with a Dana 300 for $500.
I call Jim and ask if I buy the Transmission , would he like the Dana 300 for $AMC 150 . he replies, lets just trade the engine for the TC.
The machinist finishes going over the block and reports that it looks great, just needs .030 over, cam bearing, freeze plugs and the crank polished. The labor will run $425.
So the T-176 for $350, and a 360 for maybe $1000, including parts. Motor mounts $250, radiator $250 some bling from Bull Tear and we are a go! Anyone have any thoughts?
 
:)So these are rusted and you have broken the nut off or you cannot get the nut off?
I would take a 1/16"cut-off wheel and wack off either end and drive it out with a drift punch. Thats the easy but messy way. If your drilling the shank , once you have a hole about 1/2 the diameter of the shank drilled, you should be able to take a nice drift punch with a 5 lb hammer and knock it out..............

:D:D:D:D

The actual bolt is broken off, the nut is inside the frame... I will try to continue to drill it and strike it with a punch.... I think the reason it is stuck is because the sides collapsed and according to my father in law the engineer the interior steel is softer, while the outside is harder.
 
The actual bolt is broken off, the nut is inside the frame... I will try to continue to drill it and strike it with a punch.... I think the reason it is stuck is because the sides collapsed and according to my father in law the engineer the interior steel is softer, while the outside is harder.

:)In your first picture if you can drill through the body of the bolt as mentioned about half the diameter it should relieve the surface tension on the OD of the bolt to allow it to be driven out.............on the second bolt it looks like in the picture that the head may be mushroom shaped now? If so that one I would cut off with a cutoff wheel...............as far as the bolts hardness it may be a little harder on the outside...........but its doubtful that any hardware not in the suspension system is greater than grade 3 anyway...........nothing hard about that.
Start with a sharp drill and keep it centered.................feed & spindle speed are important.............also some lube to keep it cool and cutting.

:D:D:D:D
 
:)In your first picture if you can drill through the body of the bolt as mentioned about half the diameter it should relieve the surface tension on the OD of the bolt to allow it to be driven out.............on the second bolt it looks like in the picture that the head may be mushroom shaped now? If so that one I would cut off with a cutoff wheel...............as far as the bolts hardness it may be a little harder on the outside...........but its doubtful that any hardware not in the suspension system is greater than grade 3 anyway...........nothing hard about that.
Start with a sharp drill and keep it centered.................feed & spindle speed are important.............also some lube to keep it cool and cutting.

:D:D:D:D

My fault these pictures are all of the same bolt... the bolt did mushroom as I tried to drill it with a larger drill bit... the area you see mushroomed sits inside of the bracket... I can't get the other bolts off (thats why they are painted) to remove the bracket, so I was going to leave the bracket and change out the bolts I could get off.
I will continue to work on it and let you know the progress.... it's nice to know that I should use lube to keep it cool. I guess that's how I ruined all the bits by getting it so hot it started to smoke.
 

Jeep-CJ Donation Drive

Help support Jeep-CJ.com by making a donation.

Help support Jeep-CJ.com by making a donation.
Goal
$200.00
Earned
$25.00
This donation drive ends in
Back
Top Bottom