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Fresh 360, doesn't like starting hot

Fresh 360, doesn't like starting hot
if you use the tape the 0 would be where the mark on the balancer is.
either way you do it, mark or tape you will be reading the timing where the 0 is on the cover.
 
Perfectly explained, thank you
 
When I time, I should disconnect vacuum at dizzy and am I to block off open port once removed to time
 
On a side note, the oil pump housing gasket to timing cover is seeping. Is this a pita since the system is oiled

Jeremy, You might want to check that distributor shaft has some play in it when tightened down. I had one that pressed against oil pump gears and cover which caused leak. Fix is just a spacer.
 
When I time, I should disconnect vacuum at dizzy and am I to block off open port once removed to time

If you are setting the (initial) timing, at idle, you disconnect and plug the vacuum line to the carb.

If you are setting the (total) timing of 34 degrees at 3000 rpms you leave the vacuum line connected.

Note: To find the correct RPM for setting Total timing, with the timing light on, rev the engine until the timing mark stops advancing. This should be somewhere between 2K and 3K RPM's. When the mark stops advancing you know you are at full advance, and then set the timing to 34 degrees at that RPM.

This setting should give you max power. When you accompish this, then disconnect the vacuume line and plug it. Then check you timing at idle. If you then find your timing to be 8 or 10 or 12 degrees, in the future just set it to that value at idle, and it will be correct at high RPMs.
 
Gerrmy, This is the page I was trying to find for you yesterday, look part way down the page and there is acouple atricles on timing. The one by john Hinckley is a good one. How-to and Technical Articles - The Corvette Restoration Page
Also I have one of these on my jeep, it's great cause it will not fall off like the timing tape will. There's so many ways to adjust your timing that it comes in handy. (you can adjust the distributor, vac. can, and springs/weights so sometimes it takes a few runs to get it right)
Proform 66518BLTC Proform SB-Chevy Harmonic Balancer Covers
Note that this might not be the right one for your 360 but you get the idea.
 
the carb boiled over and flooded it..

Your symptoms sound like a classic "Bleeding" carb. When the engine is off the carb is dribbling a small amount of fuel into the intake. If you start within 25 min. it is not flooded too badly. Longer and the fuel is puddling in the intake so it starts hard. After an hour or so the fuel puddles finally evaporate and it will start.

When you shut the engine off remove the airfilter and housing and look inside the carb. Sometimes the fuel will give off a white smoke and sometimes it will just smel of raw fuel. Either way that should tell the story..
I think this was your not starting problem.
 
I got it timed to approximately 32 btdc. The idle screw was able to be brought out almost all the way. Before, it was pretty open. Now there is a white haze and a stink of fuel in garage. Runs fine on the road, sketchy to get back to idle after revved, sometimes dies. Hot restarts are better but not fixed. I think it's getting way too much fuel at idle, I think I'm dealing with dialing in the mixture screws. I have the manual, but does anyone know the factory Mixture settings for and eddy 600 electric choke? Is this a possible cause or is bleeding more likely? I'm going to try s76's routine bringing it up to rpm. I read the corvette article which said the same thing just different numbers being sbc


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To adjust the idle mixture screws screw them in untill it starts to idle rough then back them off until it smoothes out.
 
To adjust the idle mixture screws screw them in untill it starts to idle rough then back them off until it smoothes out.

That is exactly right.

But at this stage of the game you need to keep the 2 idle mixture screws syncronized. Meaning, they need to match each other with how far they are screwed in, (or out)

Take one of the idle mixture screws and count the turns while you screw it in until it LIGHTLY bottoms out. Do not tighten them hard at all, just till you feel some resistance. If you counted say 1 1/2 turns or 2 1/2 turns put it back to it's original position. Then use the other screw and do the same thing, but if you find the number of turns is different than the first one you must set them both the same. Match #1 to #2 or match #2 to #1 it doesn't matter.

Then start and warm up the engine. Now, you need to decide if you think it is rich or lean. If you think it is rich turn both screws in 1/2 of a turn. And so on. Just make sure you give both screws equal adjustment.

If you go in 1/2 turn on each and it runs worse, turn both out 1/2 turn plus another 1/2 turn. If that is an improvement try another 1/2 turn on each until you get it to idle the best. Once you get close you can cut your adjustments down to 1/4 turns at a time.

There really isn't a factory setting on these, you put them where it idles the best and keep them both the same.

You said you set the timing to 32 degrees right? You did this at high RPM and with the vacuume hose connected right? If so, what is your initial timing now at and idle with the vac hose disconnected and plugged?

Do you have a big cam in this motor?

We'll get there. You have alot of supporters here. :)
 
Thanks! I'm getting tape today, don't trust my measurements. Then I'm doing wot timing with vacuum and bringing rpms to the point where the timing is no longer advancing, then time to 34 btdc. My idle will then read between 8-12. I've been listening!!!!! Timing can have a great affect on richness or lean right? I may be out of time with a slightly rich idle mix


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Thanks! I'm getting tape today, don't trust my measurements. Then I'm doing wot timing with vacuum and bringing rpms to the point where the timing is no longer advancing, then time to 34 btdc. My idle will then read between 8-12. I've been listening!!!!! Timing can have a great affect on richness or lean right? I may be out of time with a slightly rich idle mix


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No Germy. Timing does not really effect rich or lean. You may be thinking that by what you read on the Corvette tuning link. But those statements don't really apply here. Yes, lean burns slower than rich but it is not enough of a difference for it to matter in this instance. It only matters for Nascar and drag racing where they are searching for the last little microscopic gains.

Get your timing set and do the best you can with the idle mixture screws, then we will see where we need to go.

You have a power wire hooked to the choke so it opens fully after it warms up right????
 
Yes on the choke power. I will head to the shop now and get the tape. Hoping this plus idle equals good things!
 
Quick question. When timing and the rpm is found where it stops advancing, as I turn distributor do I need to compensate with throttle for the change in rpm?



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it probably won't change that much, but do what you have to do to keep it fully advanced.
You might have to change your idel RPM's after setting it though.
 
When marking balancer am I marking counter or clockwise of the factory groove. I'm assuming counter clockwise
 
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thats 32 degrees above top dead center not below top dead center . one way to check if you are running to lean or rich is get a can of carb cleaner and stand at front of jeep with air cleaner off at idle do a quick spray at carb if it bogs down its to rich , if it picks up on idle its to lean . when timing it by ear run at 2500 to 3000 rpm with vacume disconnected and turn distib you will hear it pick up on rpms then when you go to far it will stumble a bit then go back other way . do this a couple times to get the feeling for when it stumbles and high rpms.take it to the highest rpm before it stumbles then bsck off a little bit . On my amc 360 I run full advance at all times ..
 
Ok, timed it at 34 at 3000 rpms, idle time is 10 atdc with port plugged. The carbs idle mix was all the way out. After adjusting I'm about 1 1/2 turns out. Restarts perfectly hot. Can't drive, knocked the fuel line and sprung a leak then failed at my second attempt at the oil pump housing to timing cover gasket and there is seapage, ordered another from bulltear. I'm spraying it with head sealer, done.
 
Ok, timed it at 34 at 3000 rpms, idle time is 10 atdc with port plugged. The carbs idle mix was all the way out. After adjusting I'm about 1 1/2 turns out. Restarts perfectly hot. Can't drive, knocked the fuel line and sprung a leak then failed at my second attempt at the oil pump housing to timing cover gasket and there is seapage, ordered another from bulltear. I'm spraying it with head sealer, done.

Awesome! That's some progress. You are a quick learner.
 

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