Front drive shaft hits my 700r4 pan. How do I correct? :(

[76cj7chick]

Hi all!

Here is a update on my engine swap.

I was able to get the engine, tranny and transfer-case mounted on the frame. However, now the front drive shaft hits the Transmission pan lip and wont seat into the Transfer Case yoke.

How do i correct this issue. I could really use the help.

 

[mriplaybass]

Kind of hard to tell from your pictures, but I am guessing that the Jeep front axle has the differential slightly more toward center than the GM one did. I would try raising your Transmission mount slightly, thereby giving the drive shaft slightly more angle. It might just get you the clearance you need. Look out for U joint bind and slope angle if you change the Transmission mount. The other option would be to clock the Transfer Case , but I have no idea where you would get the clocking adapter. Even if you found one, they are quite expensive. At least the ones I have looked at are.
Don't forget, you have to check the clearance with the front axle at full compression and droop.

 

[Hedgehog]

I wondered where you were and whether you were still working on your swap. It's good to see that you are still grinding away on the project.

By the looks of your adaptor ring in the 3rd picture you already have a clocking ring. and Mr. Bass has a point, is the weight of the jeep on it's axles? I've heard that 2wd CJ's can be a lot of fun....... Have you had your axle modified yet?

 

[hdgapeach]

Big ol' suspension lift oughta angle that thing down outta the way !!

Seriously though, that may take some serious head scratching to figure that one out.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

What shape are your engine mounts in?
Is the jeep sit'n under it's full weight?
A spring lift might be the ans here.
LG

 

[Torxhead]

The pics do show a lot, thanks for sending those in. I would think about rotating the Transfer Case a bit and maybe doing some clearance work around in the tranny pan area like grinding some of that lip away. Not sure what lift you have, but a 4"er could help.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

'Chick' I would try 'dropping' the t'case, 1 to 2 location points on the clocking ring adapter.
LG

 

[76cj7chick]

Hey Guys!
Thanks for the positive responses!

To answer your questions:
I just bought a pair of driveshafts from Olympic4x4 in snohomish WA and would prefer to get it thrown together and drive.

Yup, the vehicle is currently under full weight. (On the ground, drivetrain etc.,)

I don't have a lift on it at the moment but it is the HD 7 leaf spring model so its slightly taller than stock.

I do have the Novak Transfer Case to tranny adapter-- which has a cool built in adapter already.

I agree, think I'll go ahead and try clocking the t/c down one-two notches.

Any suggestions on how to safely and mostly easily accomplish this task? (Do I place a jack under the tranny, remove the bolts to the t/c adapter to mount, turn the t/c down one to two notches, reimstall the.bolts, check driveshaft clearance then reinstall the bolts to spec and then the skid plate/cross member,? Please let me know if I forgot something.

Although I didnt give up on the build, I haven't done much with it, as I've been busy with real estate school. (Still attemdimg but taking er off to hopefully finish jeep) And, since I put so much time, money sweat and tears into this "project", Its hard to give up. It feels like I'm wrestling with the jeep. Hopefully I will win.

Thanks for your comments and help!

 

[76cj7chick]

I wondered where you were and whether you were still working on your swap. It's good to see that you are still grinding away on the project.

By the looks of your adaptor ring in the 3rd picture you already have a clocking ring. and Mr. Bass has a point, is the weight of the jeep on it's axles? I've heard that 2wd CJ's can be a lot of fun....... Have you had your axle modified yet?

Hmmm. Hedgehog what you mean?

 

[caveman]

Move the Transmission mount. Most all wranglers don't have the engine and Transmission centered anyway. They are 1" or so to the right side. It might give you what you need.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

'Chick'-try rotating the Transfer Case so the shift lever is straight up and down. Now ck for DS clearance.
Support the tranny with a jack.
There are 4 bolts and 1 nut(this is at the top of the case)holding the t'case in place. The 300 is HEAVY and best lifted in and out with a tranny jack.
LG

 

[Torxhead]

Move the Transmission mount. Most all wranglers don't have the engine and Transmission centered anyway. They are 1" or so to the right side. It might give you what you need.

Interesting point, I checked my CJ and it is offset by 3/4". So checking the offset would be a good idea to gain some clearence, but everything connected to it must be considered also.
Chick, when you rotate that tc be carefull as it can slip back and fall out as it is tilted back a bit.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

If the engine's fan is even with the radiator. Moving the t'mount is not feasible or recommended.
LG

 

[Hedgehog]

I'm wondering about Caveman's "Wrangler's" are off set comment ..... Kidding MR. Cavman. Most CJ's are off set some. I know how much you fretted over the engine mounts, but offsetting your engine is the real answer here, along with clocking the Transfer Case some.

I think you are winning the wrestling match between the you and the CJ. You are closer than you think to dropping her down on the ground and having fun knowing that you did it yourself, maybe with a little help but you did it girl.

 

[tarry99]

Hi all!

Here is a update on my engine swap.

I was able to get the engine, tranny and transfer-case mounted on the frame. However, now the front drive shaft hits the Transmission pan lip and wont seat into the Transfer Case yoke.

How do i correct this issue. I could really use the help.

If you are already at Ride Height.........which in theory 50% of your suspension travel from that point is either up or down and on the ground with weight and wheels on and since the parts are already hitting and the front drive shaft cannot engage the TC........
Clocking the Transfer Case down will probably have little or no effect or may even be worse going down as the distance from the center line of the drive train to the Front output remains the same as it follows the arch down which again may get you closer rather than farther away.

Can't really tell in your photo's what angle your TC is currently at.......If it is sloped down then Clocking it up or at least looking at that option , might be your best alternative so that the distance from the drivetrain Cntr line and TC output are in a straight horizontal line which at that point offer the farthest point apart which also offers the most clearance between shaft and pan.........

The 700R4 case and pan sticks out farther on the passenger side than drivers side and that is why most folks using a 700R4 will also do a drivers side drop front axle to gain the added clearance needed for the drive shaft.

Having said that your motor will probably also have to be offset to accommodate the clearance issue.

I would first on-bolt the motor and tranny mounts front and rear while hanging from above and move the motor and Transmission over up and around just to see if you gain the clearance inside the engine compartment you need to get the driveshaft installed...........

Sorry , No easy fix or solution, you just have to study it , perhaps move or adjust some parts and play with it for a while.

 

[Hedgehog]

Then there is the obvious, have you talked to NOVAK about this problem? It's been amazing to see how much help they have been willing to give you on this project already.