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Frustrating!!!

Frustrating!!!

Hamilton172

Jeeper
Posts
76
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Location
Roy, Ut
Vehicle(s)
1968 CJ5-225 V6-T86-Dana 18-27/44 axles
Trying to get my engine and Transmission together, and the dang thing doesn't want to! Been trying for over an hour, just called it quits. Not happy!!! Never had this much trouble with one before.
 
If the tranny is a manual, did you use a clutch alignment tool to center the clutch? The tool is a plastic key with the splines for the Transmission , it costs around $4 at the parts store.
 
Also make sure that the pilot bearing is the right size. I've been sold the wrong one before.
 
They sold me the wrong bushing at first, or so I thought.. It was the same part # as the one that came out. But the ID was .593, and the input shaft is .625 hmm not good. I just had my machinist friend cut out the center for me, worked perfect. But pulled the tranny off last night and I can see that the lube on the splines is only pushed about half way through the disk side. Must be an alignment issue, I used the tool the first time. Give it another shot this morning.
 
Excellent, what ended up being the trouble?
 
I'm going to be doing that Friday. Any tips?
 
I'm going to be doing that Friday. Any tips?
A leveling bar used inconjunction with the hoist works wonders to get the angle you need. leave the tranny unbolted or at least loose on the crossmember. I've used a small jack to lift the tranny up slightly to give me a better approach angle.

Then it's just "go for broke". I can stab a tranny by myself with no help as long as I can get the angle correct. I'll sit in the engine compartment stradeling the engine like some crazy bronc buster...lol....and wiggle it around until I think the input shaft is mating with the clutch.
Once I think I got it, I will thread a few bolts in the bell housing and if your carefull, you can mate the engine and bell by tightening the bolts. Just be carefull not to strip out the block....always be sure the gap between the bell and the block is closing as you tighten the bolts. If not, it's still bound up and you risk damaging the threads in the block.
 
The only thing I have to add is , make sure the indexing pins (the large hollow pins at 9:00 and 3:00) are properly lined up. When they are I usually run the bots in there and slowly tighten them up when it's obvious things are going well put in as many bolts as possible and couple turns all around at a time bring everything together. don't forget the lock tight.
 
don't forget the lock tight.

THIS!! :o Because I've NEVER forgotten it... :censored: lemme tell ya, it's bad ju-ju if you do...just saying. With an auto, it'll trash a torque converter and flex plate real quick, fast, and in a hurry...I'm sure it'll work wonders on a clutch, too.
 
I have the engine pulled and was going to put the tranny/Transfer Case back on THEN install the whole ting in to the frame. Is it easier/better to put the bellhousing on the engine or the Transmission first? I assume we're talking Loctite on the bellhousing bolts?
 
Use lock tight blue on most all the nuts and bolts you work on. It won't hurt and the peace of mind knowing that your bolts aren't backing out is well worth the effort.
 
the clutch disk splines were a little wider on the Transmission side than the engine side. I just filed them down slightly, and it slid right on. I assembled the engine, Transmission , and Transfer Case on a hoist and dropped it in the jeep.

I do have one more problem though. When I bought the jeep it was in pieces. and it came with two cross members. Neither of them really fit well. One does better than the other. But it looks like I will need a one inch spacer to drop it down because the Transfer Case hits the body if I bolt it to the frame.
 
Mine came with 1" spacers on the cross member. There are additional attachment points besides the frame that do not attach to the member, it seems like they should, but don't.
 

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