fuel gauge sending unit access panel

fuel gauge sending unit access panel

IOPort51

NOT the voice of reason Jeep-CJ.com
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1977 cj-5
4.2 W/MC2100 carb, 4.0 head W/3 angle valves,SS Header,TFI ignition with MSB-6 offroad module,CS144 140 amp RPS alternator with remote regulator T-150,d-20,Dana 44 with OX lock and disk brakes. D-30 with Spartin locker,
skyjacker 2.5 lift?nitro shocks,31" BFG A/T off road.8000 lb Warn winch, original owner.=^)

2006 Toyota Tacoma
A little back ground: I replaced the sending unit /fuel pick up when the tank was replaced with a poly (plastic) fuel tank. Lesson learned, always check function of electrical parts before they are installed, this goes double if you are going to bury that part deep in the machine. Kind of like the fuel gauge sending unit.:mad:

Ordinarily I am not a big fan of cutting on CJ bodies. Although cutting fenders and hood vents can be a good thing, these they are things I would have to think about long and hard. So believe me when I say that I was really not looking forward to dropping the tank just to swap the sending unit. This is compounded by the fact that in the future the only replacement for this is made by a manufacturer/distributor in whom I have very little faith. The sending unit itself requires about 5 minutes to swap if the tank is setting on a bench. The tank takes several hours to drop and reinstall. This is made even more fun by the laying on your back trying to avoid the little pockets of dirt that are in every cranny that can be positioned over your face.:eek:

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this is the sending unit as mounted in the poly tank. Six sheet metal screws, two wires and two hose clamps.

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there is a flat place in the back floor of my CJ5 that is very close to directly over the sending unit. I suspect that an access panel may have been used in some incarnation of the CJ. I say it is close and I guess close is a relative term, it's close enough to work. I am wondering if the original steel tank was any closer to the center of this area. Here I have laid out the area I an going to remove.

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I like round corners, they are not as likely to have sharp edges and they are less prone to stress cracking and I think it makes it look like you have a clue what your doing, in this case it will make it easier to put a gasket on the edge . I would like to avoid having mud and water find their way into the back, sometimes I carry things that I would like kept dry and clean.:cool:

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Now it's just a game of connect the dots. If your using a saber/jig saw be aware of how long the blade is, it would be very easy to saw off a fuel line. This may not be the perfect job to try the new plasma cutter and abrasive cut off wheels may require a lot of wet rags in the hole. :eek:

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this is a straight down shot to show how "close" the sending unit is to the right place. You may ask why I didn't just move the hole toward the rear. answer being that there are a couple of reinforcement channel/angle structures that you would be cutting into. I decided that was not a good idea.:rolleyes:

Now I have a working fuel gauge and easy access to the sending unit. Now all that I need is a polished stainless cover and some edge molding and this is a dun deal.:)

On a related subject, when the TBI becomes a reality I am thinking about an aluminum or maybe stainless fuel tank with a JK sending unit with in tank pump. I have always thought in tank pumps were a very bad idea when it came time to replace one but I can't say I am all in favor of a pump mounted to a frame rail either. If I build the tank I can put the sending unit/fuel pump right under the access panel.:D
 
Now I know what it would look like! When I replaced my tank and sending unit, I had thought about an access door to the sending unit. I got the idea from my Passat and was really tempted to put one in. I didn't know how it would effect the stiffness of the back end of the tub and was really afraid of hitting dead center and eventually have a hole the size of a basketball! That looks GREAT and would really like to do this to mine now with the proper template! Hint-hint...
 
That is on my to do list also, that sending unit is really clamped down! Your plans for an in tank pump sound great and I am sure it is the best way to go. My pump is mounted next to the Transfer Case on the frame rail and has held up quite well, but the in-tank unit stays cool and the fuel is submerged is the gas. I use a full time fuel pressure gauge to keep track of things also. I wouldn't be too sure about an aluminum fuel tank since the metal can fatigue and crack quite easily.
 
does your 76 have the flat spot?


Now I know what it would look like! When I replaced my tank and sending unit, I had thought about an access door to the sending unit. I got the idea from my Passat and was really tempted to put one in. I didn't know how it would effect the stiffness of the back end of the tub and was really afraid of hitting dead center and eventually have a hole the size of a basketball! That looks GREAT and would really like to do this to mine now with the proper template! Hint-hint...
 
Now all that I need is a polished stainless cover and some edge molding and this is a dun deal.:)

how about some aluminum? :D

Nice idea
 
Also thought of doing same thing was think though a round hole and one of those poly boat inspection ports. Comes sealed and screw in lid with gasket. Cheap and simple
 
I did something similar with my F-350 recently. It has dual tanks on it and the front one was being a pain in the butt with the fuel pump/filter assembly in the tank. I got tired of pulling the flatbed off every few days to tinker with it, so I made the flatbed a hydraulic tilt bed with some stuff laying around the shop. Now I can tilt the bed any time I need to access the fuel tanks! Eventually I will get a hoist assembly to be able to actually use it as a dump truck! lol
 
I don't think you would be able to get your hand in or the unit out. 4" hole would be as big as you could do and it would hang inside a bit and not have as large a usable area for access. I like the line of thinking though. that may well work for something else I have in mind.:D


Also thought of doing same thing was think though a round hole and one of those poly boat inspection ports. Comes sealed and screw in lid with gasket. Cheap and simple
 
I'm trying to think of anyone else I know who could throw together a hydraulic tilt bed from stuff laying around his shop.:notworthy:


I did something similar with my F-350 recently. It has dual tanks on it and the front one was being a pain in the butt with the fuel pump/filter assembly in the tank. I got tired of pulling the flatbed off every few days to tinker with it, so I made the flatbed a hydraulic tilt bed with some stuff laying around the shop. Now I can tilt the bed any time I need to access the fuel tanks! Eventually I will get a hoist assembly to be able to actually use it as a dump truck! lol
 
I don't think you would be able to get your hand in or the unit out. 4" hole would be as big as you could do and it would hang inside a bit and not have as large a usable area for access. I like the line of thinking though. that may well work for something else I have in mind.:D


why do you think you couldnt get a 6" one there ??

This is one I had in mind

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you would have to cut the body reinforcement channels to do that which would make the rear floor a lot less ridged. 4" would just about fit between them.:cool:


why do you think you couldnt get a 6" one there ??

This is one I had in mind

6747-2T.jpg
 
Of course everything I say is about my 77 CJ5 . I would like to hear from some others about the existence and location or the "flat spot" on other years and models. If it is there measure from the inside drivers side wheel well and back from the front edge between the seats.:cool:
 
Nice job. I've been contemplating putting in an access panel in my bed since it's all apart. I haven't done any measuring yet to see where it would be, but if it happens to be where I have several pin holes to plug weld shut then I'll definitely just cut them out instead and make a panel with flanged edges. Provided it doesn't interfere with my back seat.
 
Great idea, I've thought about this also, but was afraid of cutting into my fiberglass floor.
The omix one's don't last very long.:mad:
 
Great idea! Since we are on the topic, looks like tomorrow my son and I will be replacing the gas tank and sending unit on the CJ5 . Anything in particular that I need to know or look out for?
 
take care with the hoses. they are expensive and in some cases hard to find.:cool:


Great idea! Since we are on the topic, looks like tomorrow my son and I will be replacing the gas tank and sending unit on the CJ5 . Anything in particular that I need to know or look out for?
 
As always IO, you are a wealth of info. Will do! Thanks man
 
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the last detail, 3/32" aluminum plate, #6x5/8" SS oval head sheet metal screws. Drill bed 7/64" and drill and countersink the plate 1/8".

And a shot of the bed of the CJ just because it is cleaner than it has been in quite a while.:D
 
:censored: the omix unit I just replaced a couple of months ago (maybe 10 hours of time on it) just guit working again.:mad:
That panel idea is looking better and better.
 
that has got to upset you!!:mad:


:censored: the omix unit I just replaced a couple of months ago (maybe 10 hours of time on it) just guit working again.:mad:
That panel idea is looking better and better.
 

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