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fuel gauge sending unit access panel

fuel gauge sending unit access panel
Look at the positive side. It gives you a reason to drink some beer and turn some wrenches in the man cave!

I/O - Nice job on the access panel. It makes you wonder why they stopped and started that rib in the bed in that particular spot. Maybe that idea was on the drawing board but got nix'd prior to production.
 
:censored: the omix unit I just replaced a couple of months ago (maybe 10 hours of time on it) just guit working again.:mad:
That panel idea is looking better and better.


Quote they must be time bombed mine lasted 2 weeks :(

I have confirmed mine is the float filling up as I let it run close to empty it drained the float fuel gauge worked for about 1 day until it filled again

putting off dropping the tank:(

The CJ7 tank port seems to be a lot further back than your pic's of an early CJ5 IO

Will try to get some pic's next weekend
 
I was prepaired to do a little precision ball peen hammer work on a cover to allow for the ridges in the rear deck. looking back, it would have been a good idea to center the sending unit in the hole but I don't think cutting the reinforcment on the under side is a good idea.:cool:

@Aussicj7 as we say here in the Republic, "man! that really bites a big one!"

For anybody that tries this, be selective with your cutting tools. Remember this is a potentially flammable area, fire extinguisher is your friend. I used a die grinder with cut off wheel for the last cut because of interference from one of the reinforcements under the deck but only after packing the hole with very wet rags and directing sparks to a some place else.:D
 
recent up date: I just went and filled the tank for the first time sense doing this and found that the sending unit to tank seal leaks.:(

If I had to drop the tank to do this over I would be PO'd.:mad:
 
Quote they must be time bombed mine lasted 2 weeks :(

I have confirmed mine is the float filling up as I let it run close to empty it drained the float fuel gauge worked for about 1 day until it filled again

putting off dropping the tank:(

The CJ7 tank port seems to be a lot further back than your pic's of an early CJ5 IO

Will try to get some pic's next weekend

So in my hunt for a new sender unit, is there a brand to stay away from? Two weeks sounds fast for a leaky float???? :(

@IO - looking at my '86. (will measure later) it looks like I have the same flat surface area as you, however, it's not centered on the jeep, I've got three ridges in the driver side of the flat area, and four on the passenger side. Photos and measurements coming.
 
it's all relitive to where the sending unit is. Measure from the side of the fender well to the center of the sending unit and then from the edge of the back floor to the center. this should give you a pretty good idea whether the flat place is close to the sending unit. I think the most important thing is not to cut the cross brace under the rear deck.:cool:


So in my hunt for a new sender unit, is there a brand to stay away from? Two weeks sounds fast for a leaky float???? :(

@IO - looking at my '86. (will measure later) it looks like I have the same flat surface area as you, however, it's not centered on the jeep, I've got three ridges in the driver side of the flat area, and four on the passenger side. Photos and measurements coming.
 
recent up date: I just went and filled the tank for the first time sense doing this and found that the sending unit to tank seal leaks.:(

If I had to drop the tank to do this over I would be PO'd.:mad:

The access panel just paid for itself!:chug:
 
So in my hunt for a new sender unit, is there a brand to stay away from? Two weeks sounds fast for a leaky float???? :(

@IO - looking at my '86. (will measure later) it looks like I have the same flat surface area as you, however, it's not centered on the jeep, I've got three ridges in the driver side of the flat area, and four on the passenger side. Photos and measurements coming.
Omix ada but buggered if can find an alternative
 
Just put a new tank in this weekend and apparently the OEM sender doesn't work with the poly tank?

Off to buy a sender but I am going to do this too! Thanks for the post, if I had to fight that tankard heavy arse kilby skid again I may lose my mind!
 
I am suggesting that when you pull the OEM you look at it very closely. I don't think there is a reason it should not work with the poly tank as it is separately grounded, or at least it is supposed to be.

The replacement is a piece of junk so make sure it has resistance before you put it in, ask me how I know this. :o

use plenty of the sealer of your choice on the tank to sending unit joint, mine leaked badly with just the ring gasket supplied.

When I do get around to putting TBI on mine I as going to do a bit of creative engineering on the original steel tank and put an in tank pump and sending unit in it that lines up a bit better with the access plate than the poly tank does.:cool:


Just put a new tank in this weekend and apparently the OEM sender doesn't work with the poly tank?

Off to buy a sender but I am going to do this too! Thanks for the post, if I had to fight that tankard heavy arse kilby skid again I may lose my mind!
 
That sounds like an awfully heavy skid plate for a guy that claims he wants to spend more time on asphalt.:laugh:
 
After reading this thread Im looking to do the same on my CJ7 . I havent had a working fuel gauge in any Cj Ive owned. Since Im doing the tub swap I figured Id take care of it then. Great idea. :notworthy:
 
I am suggesting that when you pull the OEM you look at it very closely. I don't think there is a reason it should not work with the poly tank as it is separately grounded, or at least it is supposed to be.

The replacement is a piece of junk so make sure it has resistance before you put it in, ask me how I know this. :o

use plenty of the sealer of your choice on the tank to sending unit joint, mine leaked badly with just the ring gasket supplied.

When I do get around to putting TBI on mine I as going to do a bit of creative engineering on the original steel tank and put an in tank pump and sending unit in it that lines up a bit better with the access plate than the poly tank does.:cool:


Fair enough, I really don't know much about the sender, going to have to do a little research on it...I know it worked on the old tank and didn't on the new one...I will start another thread if needed to keep this OT
 
That sounds like an awfully heavy skid plate for a guy that claims he wants to spend more time on asphalt.:laugh:

Ha! Very good point but I already had it...just because it is going to be less extreme doesn't mean it can't be capable when needed:cool: I am about over engineering
 
I am about to become totally disgusted with poly fuel tanks. Once again it is leaking at the sending unit connection. Don't know if it is the O gasket or the sheet metal screws that hold the sending unit in place. Just who was it that thought using sheet metal screws to make a liquid tight seal was a good idea? :mad:

So, anyways, at least I don't have to drop the tank.:rolleyes:

this is going to require some serious re engineering :bang:
 
One more installment in the " god I am so glad I did this" file.

Pulled the sending unit one more time and looked things over very carefully. You would think I would do things like that from the get go but I guess not.

what I need is a gasket that actually fits the job. I figure a 3" od 2 1/8" id and about 1/4" thick and a device to apply pressure that will actually hold things in place and apply a that pressure evenly to the joint. I am thinking 1/8" aluminum 3 1/2" od and 2" id with holes that like up with the mounting holes in the tank. OK that is doable.

made a gasket out of a "Kong" dog toy. Don't laugh, they claim it is made from the same rubber as motor mounts and suspension rubber, maybe it can stand up to gasoline? NOT!

Soaked up regular gas and swelled to twice it's size. Oh well lesson learned and the dog is a bit upset.:rolleyes:

next is Cork gasket material from the hobby shop, the stuff they use to make bulletin boards with. I just have to wait till Wednesday night to pick it up.

I would have got it tonight but I got caught up in my tire hunting binge. I picked up four %50 + swamper TSLs for $200. now I have a garage full of tires and I am beginning to know how much fun Pete has collecting parts.

Y'all be careful this sickness appears to be contagious.:doh:

no more tires , no more tires , no more tires.:o
 
Hopefully this is the last post in this thread for a good long while. I apologize for it morphing into a sending unit thread from an access plate thread but this seems to be as pressing a problem as the access and excellent reason to install one.

Here is the latest , I think it looks better than the first attempt I made the gasket from two layers of 1/8" cork from the hobby shop $10 buys you a lifetime supply, if you can keep up with it that long.:cool:

Now, if it just manages to not leak.:mad:

http://www.jeep-cj.com/gallery/files/1/1/9/3/img_0495.jpg
 
This is the sender access cover I made for my B many years ago
IMG_7837_zpsbbdb6e1c.webp
 
I got mine "installed" today. Not as pretty as some shown, but it's hidden under the toolbox. I figured it was time, since I needed to swap sending units anyways. (Turns out the brass float was the culprit, not the old S-U...)

Did it all without dropping the tank. Loved it.
 

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