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Grinding into reverse

Grinding into reverse
Hedgehog said:
True but moving it to get the front to unbind will be difficult with one drive shaft removed and the other out of gear....... The whole idea of moving the vehicle to engage the front driveline and moving it to disengage without a means to mechanically move the vehicle made me :) and go "hmmmm". I do support the idea though. Test the vehicle with the offending part removed. Something else that might make the vehicle shimmy and shake, how long has the vehicle sat in one spot? Some tires take a flat spot rather easily. Just a thought.
Click to expand...

Good thought but I drive the jeep nearly every day. I will try running the jeep with the rear shaft out but it's pretty mysterious since I have some vibration during rapid acceleration even at slow speed. Not sure that would be the shaft but all I did was replace the clutch parts and tranny mount. It's minor but it bugs me. Thanks for all the help.
 
hagar said:
I believe not having the flywheel resurfaced was a mistake.
You stated that it saved you time and money.
$30 to $40 to have this done is ALWAYS worth my time and money.
Any good mechanic should know that.
So be it.
Time will tell.
Click to expand...

Normally I would agree but the PO said it was turned only 45k miles ago and I could see the tooling marks on the fly wheel. I also put a straight edge on it and it seemed good. But I do make a lot of mistakes.
 
Confirm the front DS ain't bent also.
May be a real good time to inspect the engine mounts.
My bet-it's the rear DS.
LG
 
A minor thought, you might have thrown a belt (TIre). Take a second and run your hand around the circumference of the tire. If you find a lump your tire is coming apart from the inside. I've had many tires come apart in this way.

First, yes you might actually feel more vibration through better harder material motor mounts. Pretty much after very serious drive train difficulty you are stuck with other rotating items .... drive shafts, wheel bearings, axles, tires.

How did you protect your universal bearings while you were working on the Transmission . Did you tape or somehow hold the bearing caps in place. If not you are risking several problems. Loss of some needle bearings, mixing bearings. Then there is the simple stuff, how clean was the bearing and its pocket. It seems stupid but it happens, did you install your driveshaft backwards. I don't remember, are your universal joint pockets aligned perfectly, if not pull the shaft apart and reinstall the shafts perfectly lined up ..... Take time to grease your shaft. If somehow your drive shaft was bent either before it was removed or after you have two choices, replace or have a professional driveshaft repair shop fix it. Really, other than that, well there isn't any other than that.
 
:agree: 110%
The point about the tire issue is excellent.
LG
 
Hedgehog said:
A minor thought, you might have thrown a belt (TIre). Take a second and run your hand around the circumference of the tire. If you find a lump your tire is coming apart from the inside. I've had many tires come apart in this way.

First, yes you might actually feel more vibration through better harder material motor mounts. Pretty much after very serious drive train difficulty you are stuck with other rotating items .... drive shafts, wheel bearings, axles, tires.

How did you protect your universal bearings while you were working on the Transmission . Did you tape or somehow hold the bearing caps in place. If not you are risking several problems. Loss of some needle bearings, mixing bearings. Then there is the simple stuff, how clean was the bearing and its pocket. It seems stupid but it happens, did you install your driveshaft backwards. I don't remember, are your universal joint pockets aligned perfectly, if not pull the shaft apart and reinstall the shafts perfectly lined up ..... Take time to grease your shaft. If somehow your drive shaft was bent either before it was removed or after you have two choices, replace or have a professional driveshaft repair shop fix it. Really, other than that, well there isn't any other than that.
Click to expand...

I'll check the tires. They have a lot of tread but two are very old (12 yrs). I taped up the hearing caps during the clutch job and thanks for confirming my suspicions with regard to the new tranny mount. The drive shaft has a small dent and there is a very slight twist that I discovered. I have decided to take it to a shop for repair. Have no idea what that will cost but shouldn't be too bad. One question, does an AMC20 have a slip yoke that just pulls out of the rear diff? If not I shouldn't have worry about getting the shaft back on like came off, right? Thanks a lot for your suggestions.
 
b3uhbp said:
I'll check the tires. They have a lot of tread but two are very old (12 yrs).
Click to expand...

Ya gotta get new ones. My old BFG Muds had a lot of tread and were the same age when they split on the outer corner with a 2" long hole. So glad I wasn't going at speed when it happened. It was then that I understood why no tire shop would service them at that age.
 
YES-On new 'skins'!
I put the slip spline section up by the t'case, as that does the best to keep it from get'n mash'd in rocks etc.
The ONLY slip splines are in the 2 driveshafts.
LG
 
I checked the tires, okay for now but will keep an eye on them. Talked to two shaft repair shops and the both said the same thing. Needs to be retubed, $AMC 150 , not bad. I will have it done soon and let all know how it worked. I'm confident it will resolve the issue. They also confirmed that a new tranny mount would magnify any vibration.
 
Make sure that shop will balance the DS also. Plan on new u-joints and I will only use Dana-Spicer. Might be time for a new slip-spline too. How thick of a wall will this new tube be. When I had mine built. It was with 1/4" wall. IIRC, OEM is less than .125, more like .090.
FWIW: I wouldn't drive it much till this issue is fixed. That vibration is bad for bearings and such.
Did you ever drive it without the rear DS to be SURE this is the issue??:confused:
LG
 
Here is a pic of the jeep y'all are helping me with. Thanks a bunch.
 
Dang:drool:-That's really nice.:notworthy:
Dig'n the OEM wheels. :chug:
Those TB brackets, look like mine for a Smittybuilt tow bar.
You run'n 33's?
LG
 
Lumpy Grits said:
Dang:drool:-That's really nice.:notworthy:
Dig'n the OEM wheels. :chug:
Those TB brackets, look like mine for a Smittybuilt tow bar.
You run'n 33's?
LG
Click to expand...

32x11.5s. It's been a 3.5 yr project. Looks very different from when I bought it.
 
Lumpy Grits said:
Dang:drool:-That's really nice.:notworthy:
Dig'n the OEM wheels. :chug:
Those TB brackets, look like mine for a Smittybuilt tow bar.
You run'n 33's?
LG
Click to expand...

32x11.5s. It's been a 3.5 yr project. Looks very different from when I bought it.
 
Very nice :notworthy: I can't wait to get mine looking that nice. I hope to start my frame off next year.
 
Very nice .... pretty even .... A little long for my taste .... :) (I'm a CJ5 kinda Guy)
 
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I don't know about that, there's something about those square Wrangler type doors. The 7 always seems like it should have been called a Scrambler Short to me.
 
Actually, I agree.
 
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