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Grinding into reverse

Grinding into reverse
Hedgehog said:
I don't know about that, there's something about those square Wrangler type doors. The 7 always seems like it should have been called a Scrambler Short to me.
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Scrambler Short, that's pretty funny. A buddy of mine just bought an 83 Scrambler. Just got a new paint last week and has aproximately $5k to $6k in new parts to be put on over the next few weeks. I'm sure it's going to be beautiful. But it's a little long for my taste.
 
Lumpy Grits said:
Make sure that shop will balance the DS also. Plan on new u-joints and I will only use Dana-Spicer. Might be time for a new slip-spline too. How thick of a wall will this new tube be. When I had mine built. It was with 1/4" wall. IIRC, OEM is less than .125, more like .090.
FWIW: I wouldn't drive it much till this issue is fixed. That vibration is bad for bearings and such.
Did you ever drive it without the rear DS to be SURE this is the issue??:confused:
LG
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Drive shaft went in for repair today. If they determine it's bent they will retube, balance, fix or replace any issues with the end yokes and replace u-jounts. I took it for a test drive with rear shaft out. Much less vibration. I think I will replace engine mounts as well.
 
Don't be surprised to find that your front shaft is trashed. Many are. Not due to use, but due to lack of use. A drive shaft has to be used, running and the usual pulsing in and out moves or pumps grease around the splines. A drive shaft such as a front shaft that doesn't get used nearly as much as a rear shaft tends to hold dirt and other grinding compounds in one place working away at your close tolerance drive shaft splines. That's why old jeepers try to run their 4wd systems at least 15 miles a month. For that reason once a month or so, I try to engage the hubs going to work. Then disengage them and run the Transfer Case in 4wd going home. .... Hmmm Come to think of it, I haven't done that in quite a while. Maybe tonight.

Generally a warn front shaft is no big deal, few front shafts are required to run at 70 mph for very long. They live there lives at 15 mph. Even a badly warn shaft will live quite happily at those speeds.
 
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Mine lives it's at less than 1MPH lol

(bit exagerated... more like under 2 MPH ;) )

For the most part anyways... :cool:

Very nice Jeep OP - Looks awesome!

:chug:
 
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Hedgehog said:
Don't be surprised to find that your front shaft is trashed. Many are. Not due to use, but due to lack of use. A drive shaft has to be used, running and the usual pulsing in and out moves or pumps grease around the splines. A drive shaft such as a front shaft that doesn't get used nearly as much as a rear shaft tends to hold dirt and other grinding compounds in one place working away at your close tolerance drive shaft splines. That's why old jeepers try to run their 4wd systems at least 15 miles a month. That's why once a month or so, I like to engage the hubs going to work. Then disengage them and run the Transfer Case in 4wd going home. .... Hmmm Come to think of it, I haven't done that in quite a while. Maybe tonight.

Generally a warn front shaft is no big deal, few front shafts are required to run at 70 mph for very long. They live there lives at 15 mph. Even a badly warn shaft will live quite happily at those speeds.
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Very good info. I will try to implement. Today I heard from the drive shaft shop. The tube is bent and one of the slip yokes is also badly worn. In addition, the male end of the slip spline is also bent. They could repair it but said I'd be better off to let them build a new shaft which is how I chose to go. $225. One final question. I'm planning on replacing the motor mounts. I understand that urethane will last longer but is it as good at absorbing vibration as rubber? Your thoughts?
 
I kind of like having a feel for the way the engine is running so the urethane mounts have enough positives over the rubber version to get the nod from me.
 
Hedgehog said:
I kind of like having a feel for the way the engine is running so the urethane mounts have enough positives over the rubber version to get the nod from me.
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I agree - and feel the engine and tranny mounts should be the same materials. Want them to move, or not move rather, the same.

The urethane bushings have served me well for years now. Bolts have broken a few times, but the mount bushings are still good!

:cool:
 
What bolts are your break'n? :confused:
I've had my M.O.R.E. engine mounts and poly t'mount in for many, many years with no issues what so ever.
LG
 
Agreed, they are pricey. But what does it cost to replace the radiator and fan after the OEM type engine mount breaks and 'eats' those items?
LG
 
From what I have seen Lumpy, is when the motor mounts weaken it tends to push the AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l to the rear. Where the valve cover can even hit the firewall. This also puts the load from the clutch linkage bell crank against the outside pivot and breaking it. There are also a couple of nylon bell crank bushings in there that will wear out also. The best part is when it happens to somebody elses vehicle and you get to work on it.
 
I've seen it go into the rad. more than once. Especially on a rocky trail. That's what mine did, and the reason for the MORE mounts in my '7'. Over the life time of the Jeep. They've been a cheap investment. :D
LG
 
Lumpy Grits said:
What bolts are your break'n? :confused:
I've had my M.O.R.E. engine mounts and poly t'mount in for many, many years with no issues what so ever.
LG
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Sorry - Body mount bolts - Little off topic I suppose - I was saying all my bushings match to Poly - But neglected to explain the bolts breaking were the body mount bolts through the poly bushings... :o

:chug:
 
Don't tighten the body bolts down much. Let the body and frame flex some. Hold the bolts in place with #242 Loctite(blue).
LG
 
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