Misc. Has anyone used a non CJ brake Booster?

[Armyvet25]

They are getting harder to find, has anyone used a power brake booster from any other vehicle with or without the original master, what combination did you use? Thanks in advance. 82-86 CJ7

 

[CJ]

I used one from an AMC Matador. There are two different Matador families. 71-73 and 74-78. The one for my 72 CJ bolted right up.

 

[Patrick]

You can also give this one a shot. It’s original to a square body Chevy truck 73-88.

 

[Manic Mechanic]

You can buy both the master cylinder and booster new still. I just put new ones on my Jeep. But a YJ set up works great as well with only slight changes needed on the brake lines (one is a larger bore and the lines come out of the opposite side of the cylinder)

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[TSB8C]

I used a SW Performance Parts # PB8531 (dual diaphragm) booster. Could also use a Duralast # 54-73565 (single diaphragm) booster. Then a SW Performance Parts # MC1321H master cylinder. Fit right in, lines hooked right up, easy-peasy.

 

[Armyvet25]

I used a SW Performance Parts # PB8531 (dual diaphragm) booster. Could also use a Duralast # 54-73565 (single diaphragm) booster. Then a SW Performance Parts # MC1321H master cylinder. Fit right in, lines hooked right up, easy-peasy.

View attachment 100059 View attachment 100060

Thanks for all the ideas, I like this setup TS

 

[fibersport]

I know this is a few months old but regarding the booster and master cylinder that TSB8C installed.

I currently have manual brakes and I have a booster, bracket and master from another Jeep but the booster and master cylinder are both shot. I like the dual diaphragm booster and I plan to install a master cylinder with a plastic reservoir with a cap as well.

A couple of questions: did you already have power brakes or did you convert from manual? Second, if you converted, did you have to make any changes to the brake pedal pin location that connects to the booster or was it just a plug and play?

 

[TSB8C]

I had manual and converted to power with this booster/master cylinder (MC) setup. I also had to get the booster bracket since the manual brake MC bolted right to the firewall with no bracket. You can get the entire setup with bracket, booster and MC all together for about $130. Here's an example from eBay: eBay Link

But if all you need is the bracket, $40 will do it. Here's one: Booster Bracket

LEED also makes a bracket, but they're too high price. It's part # JEP7486 and theirs is over $100. Omix also makes one, but under $100. Part # 16721.10

No change to the brake pedal at all. The push rod on the bracket connected right to the pedal pin location. With the power setup, the bracket includes a "pivot" type assembly that has a center "cam" lever. This lever pivots at the top of the bracket on a bolt. The push rod from the pedal connects to the center of this lever, and then a separate push rod connects from the lower part of this lever into the rear of the booster. Both push rods are adjustable to get the correct length and travel you need. In this way, the push rod into the MC is moving a greater distance than what you are pushing the pedal.

Here's a pic of one where I highlighted the parts I'm describing. This is a full kit including a new proportioning valve mounted on a bracket to the side of the assembly. I did not use one like this and I did not relocate my prop valve from the frame rail below. The green box is the "cam" lever I described. Of course it really sits in between the sides of the black bracket where you can't see it. You see the shiny bolt at the top of the green box. That is the pivot this lever moves on when the pedal gets pressed. The two red lines are the push rods. The one on the right is the one from the brake pedal. It has a nylon bushing and sets on the pin on the side the pedal with a washer and cotter pin holding it in place. It connects to the center of the "cam" lever (the green box). The lower red line is the push rod from the lower part of the lever and going into the booster. So when you push the pedal, you push the center part of the lever (green box) and cause it to pivot on that bolt at the top, thus pushing the lower push rod a greater distance into the booster, thus requiring less force and travel distance of the pedal to effect the same braking performance.



You'll also want to get the rubber seals or covers as well. One is on the booster (the ribbed rubber part at the bottom that the push rod goes through. Your new booster should have this with it. The other is a seal that goes in the firewall and looks like a funnel or small rubber cone. The push rod from the pedal will go through this second seal. The OEM part # is 83505044. www.the-jeep-guy.com has one part # HW-2121. Partsdude4x4.net also has one part # PD2121.

 

[fibersport]

Thanks for the very detailed reply. I actually have the OEM bracket but it seems I might need to modify it to fit the booster that you mentioned in your post. When I asked about modifying the brake pedal I think I got it confused with the modifications needed to install a hydraulic clutch over the original mechanical. Your explanation of the bracket is spot on, since mine is all in pieces it will help putting it back together.

 

[NotTJ]

Mine is running a YJ bracket and booster with the pushrod shortened so a CJ master can be used. I didn't do it the previous owner did it to clear the TBI air cleaner on a AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l .

 

[Manic Mechanic]

Here's the factory set up.

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[Patrick]

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