HELP! carb built by girl having issues! :(

[76cj7chick]

So.. Being a crazy girl I decided to purchase a junkyard motorcraft 2150 carb rebuild it and install on my 76 CJ7 jeep.. -I installed a intake manifold and exhaust manifold for later years with 2 bbl)...
Once the fuel reached the carb the jeep started ... But then the exhaust manifold started to get hot and smoke appeared...
I shut off the engine adjusted the choke pull off screw by five turns in thinking it had too much vacuum... Started him up again and this time gas flooded out the float bowl vent hose to the charcoal canister and spewed on the ground..
I shut if off again... Noticed fuel coming out between the gaskets too...

Anyone know what may be wrong? (Besides a newbee-girl building a CJ7 ? )

I torqued the intake and exhaust manifold bolts to spec and did it in the suggested cross pattern..
Both idle mixture screws are 1.5 turns out from seat
Have 1.08 venturi 2 bbl mc 2150 carb with 48 jets (Live 350-700 above sea level)

Did strip carb -cleaned out all orifices, changed power valve and all gaskets...

Did NOTICE carb choke housing has a hole on bottom that po drilled out.. Don't know why. (The other heat riser pipe hole has been capped off) Will a little hole in the choke housing cause this much flooding..


Also, I just checked the float and it looks fine (7/16') and floats.. I noticed that the gas is coming out between the power valve and throttle thingy (name?) more than anywhere. I did tighten all screws which weren't as tight as they could have been..

Please help a "dumb" about carbs girl...

 

[Fastatv]

Gosh, there are so many things that can wrong, its hard to begin. On the float, are you sure the metal float "hold down" is clipped securely on the float pin and into the float seat? Did you use the correct power valve gasket, there are two diff type valves, and they require diff style gaskets. Are all of the accelerator parts installed, the ball, the pin that helps keep the ball seated. Your A/F mixture screws should be at about 3 to 3.5 turns from seat....then adjusted for max vacuum after engine is warmed up. Just a start, hope this helps in some way.

 

[Hedgehog]

Listen, this isn't a girl rebuild thing, carbs can be tricky even for the best of us. I had a relatively simple Harley carb that I needed to rebuild about a dozen times before getting everything right all at the same time. I won't even touch a car type carb. You've shown your grit even trying. If all else fails, this is no reflection on your gender, it isn't that expensive to have your carb professionally rebuilt, especially if you remove it yourself. The manifold is a no brainer and isn't your problem. That is if you weren't running some sort of exotic header arrangement. Different exhausts might require different jetting, but not big flooding.

 

[76cj7chick]

Gosh, there are so many things that can wrong, its hard to begin. On the float, are you sure the metal float "hold down" is clipped securely on the float pin and into the float seat? Did you use the correct power valve gasket, there are two diff type valves, and they require diff style gaskets. Are all of the accelerator parts installed, the ball, the pin that helps keep the ball seated. Your A/F mixture screws should be at about 3 to 3.5 turns from seat....then adjusted for max vacuum after engine is warmed up. Just a start, hope this helps in some way.

I popped the top (air horn) off the carb and the float was where it was supposed to be. I even touched it and it was bobbing at the top. I think I will check again to make sure the metal hold down is seated correctly.
Hard to tell if I used the correct pv gasket ( I checked the power valve and it wasn't leaking.. Just the accelerator pump) --I didn't get the same accelerator pump diaphragm in the carb kit so I reused the old one. -I did notice it has a hole in it so plan on replacing it when I go to the car parts store.
I've read the a/f mixture screws are supposed to be at 1.5 turns out from seat position.. If I turn them out more-wouldn't increase fuel?

(I sure wish I could borrow one of you experts to help rebuild this carburetor headache...)

I should have just purchased from the ebay guy.. But it was just taking so long to get an invoice for the adapter plate and I really needed my jeep to work now.

Anyways-THANKS for the help!

 

[76cj7chick]

Listen, this isn't a girl rebuild thing, carbs can be tricky even for the best of us. I had a relatively simple Harley carb that I needed to rebuild about a dozen times before getting everything right all at the same time. I won't even touch a car type carb. You've shown your grit even trying. If all else fails, this is no reflection on your gender, it isn't that expensive to have your carb professionally rebuilt, especially if you remove it yourself. The manifold is a no brainer and isn't your problem. That is if you weren't running some sort of exotic header arrangement. Different exhausts might require different jetting, but not big flooding.

Thanks for trying to make me feel better... Because I feel like ... This CJ7 jeep rebuild is draining me...
There have been many times I wanted to roll the jeep into a lake or sound...

If the carb doesn't work after I get a new choke pull off, accelerator pump diaphragm and other parts then I may just take it to someone to rebuild.. (It's just hard for me to trust a lot of today's mechanics...--I've experienced too many bad or crooked ones.)

(I think I'm going to have a shot or two of vodka before I go to sleep tonight... -It will make me feel better- Vodka is tasty in juice )

 

[Fastatv]

I agree with several of the others...carb building isn't necessarily a gender thing, and a female with enough practice/experience could do it well.....The choke pull off is as it indicates, its used to pull the choke plate open ( a measured amount ) when starting, and warming up. Unless the choke plate is staying completely closed, most likely its not the problem ( flooding ). On older carbs/vehicles, 1.5 turns ( A/F mixture ) out is usually way lean. The only exception is the Holley carb with a primary metering block. It usually runs best at about 1 to 1.5 (max) turns from seated. Look at ur directions ( closely ) in regards to the power valve as a valve with two holes requires a specific gasket and the valve with three holes requires another. Anyway, about too much to try to convey in a message as like I mentioned, several things can go wrong. Good luck, and I'll try to help if I can.

 

[Torxhead]

76cj7chick, I had the oem carb on my '86 rebuilt by a pro and after recovering from the price I paid for it, I was quite satisfied with the work even after years of doing my own rebuilding. So my point is sometimes it is best to let the pros(If you can find a good one) do their work.

 

[bearsden]

Thanks for trying to make me feel better... Because I feel like ... This CJ7 jeep rebuild is draining me...
There have been many times I wanted to roll the jeep into a lake or sound...

If the carb doesn't work after I get a new choke pull off, accelerator pump diaphragm and other parts then I may just take it to someone to rebuild.. (It's just hard for me to trust a lot of today's mechanics...--I've experienced too many bad or crooked ones.)

(I think I'm going to have a shot or two of vodka before I go to sleep tonight... -It will make me feel better- Vodka is tasty in juice )

wow my jeep does that same thing to me,but it usually ends with shots of whiskey

 

[IOPort51]

you may be getting a little burnt out, take a brake and go to the races, go work in the garden , go shoe shopping, whatever you want to do. I can tell you what you won't do and that is roll your CJ into the lake.

we have seen you do a lot of things that are more challenging than build a Motorcraft carb, you may have just missed something. the float valve may not be seating just right, the bypass line may be blocked, did you drop the little ball? This is all about you, not how much money you can throw at a problem.

even if you start over all it cost was the price of the kit. You are going to feel real good about yourself when the motor starts and idles smooth at 700 RPMs. And save the "dumb old girl" stuff, I just don't see it.

 

[wm69]

Sounds like something with your float needle not stopping gas flow into the bowl. I haven't had that problem with a jeep carb (yet) but had a needle that wasn't properly sealing on a Honda 4wheeler and the gas tank drained into the airbox AND the crankcase. Check your float and make sure the needle is going down/ shutting of the flow of gas when the float comes up.

 

[Fastatv]

I can build it for you, if you need me to, and inexpensively. Not sure if I can say this in this area of the site....this post may be moved and I may be scorned..... Anyway, let me know.

 

[ThisGuyUKnow]

I know this isnt really that helpful but I tried to rebuild a cj carb once and failed miserably and I am not a girl. I ended up ripping the fi out of a 4.0 and installed it on the AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l and never looked back.

 

[Hedgehog]

Looks like I'm in the same boat your in. The 360 I just installed starts and runs, but the float doesn't appear to be closing and gas just pours out the vent tube. Working on a carb isn't my favorite thing to do.

 

[johnnyreb]

I agree on the needle and seat. I have rebuilt several over the years. I built one for my 80' CJ5 and it wouldn't tune out. Scraped it and found another one. Gender is irrelevant, a woman that can rebuilt a carb is a great thing.

 

[Hedgehog]

Yep was easy. Found an interesting but not stock needle modification. That bad boy went away, new float, needle and seat later no more overflow.

 

[Barry2]

Ya might check for a piece of dirt or something caught in the needle valve. It will give the same symptons.

 

[johnnyreb]

plastic or brass float? they can be a problem with sinking.

 

[Hedgehog]

I don't really want to sidetrack this thread ...... sorry 76cj7chick

The replacement float is the fiber one. There was a youtube video in float adjustment that showed the brass version. Unfortunately I already had the fiber one on hand. I am looking for the brass one though and will replace the fiber version.

The bowl, original needle seat and fuel lines were cleaned, but it didn't do any good. I do berlieve the problem was in the unconventional needle the PO had in the carb. This was probably the easiest "fix" I've done on the jeep and I hate working on carburetors.