HELP! CJ Won't Idle and is Trying to Start in ACC On Position!

[ThisGuyUKnow]

Ok so my T-5 went out and I elected to do an AX15 replacement. I drove the CJ in fourth gear(the only one that worked still) to the place where I have been working on it and it idled fine. I spent the last couple weeks swapping in the AX15 and in the process the only things I had to change electrically were the leads for the reverse pickup on the tranny and the starter from the DOnor required an extra line to allow it to fire the starter (I just wired this directly to the same line as the original starter).

I first ran that extra lead to the acc on line but the truck wouldnt stay started once the engine caught. so I ran straight to the same lead that originally connected to the starter and the engine would start and stay running so long as i depressed the gas. once I let go of the gas it would just die. I thought maybe it was just cause it was cold but once I warmed it up to operating temp still would just die. My first thought was fuel? but I checked the output on the fuel filter and it squirts real good and the jets are squirting strong as well.

The only thing I can think of is it must be something electrical that is preventing it from idling right?

Well to add more grief I pulled the leads of the solenoid and cleaned them. I had left the key in ACC on by mistake when I did this and when I put it back together the lead on the top right caused the starter to fire. Now if you turn the key to ACC on the jeep starts. Not cool!
I traced the engine harness from the solenoid all the way to the control module and fire wall and there are no crossed/melted wires on the engine harness(I pulled every inch out of the black plastic --not fun!) so the problem must be under the dash somewhere?

What should I do? I am in desperate need of a car right now so I would like to be driving my CJ ASAP. Is the problem most likely electical? If so I can just tow to the local automotive wiring shop and have them do it. I cant see how the tranny would cause this since the engine isnt computer controlled like modern cars.

 

[mylittlecj5]

Ok so my T-5 went out and I elected to do an AX15 replacement. I drove the CJ in fourth gear(the only one that worked still) to the place where I have been working on it and it idled fine. I spent the last couple weeks swapping in the AX15 and in the process the only things I had to change electrically were the leads for the reverse pickup on the tranny and the starter from the DOnor required an extra line to allow it to fire the starter (I just wired this directly to the same line as the original starter).

I first ran that extra lead to the acc on line but the truck wouldnt stay started once the engine caught. so I ran straight to the same lead that originally connected to the starter and the engine would start and stay running so long as i depressed the gas. once I let go of the gas it would just die. I thought maybe it was just cause it was cold but once I warmed it up to operating temp still would just die. My first thought was fuel? but I checked the output on the fuel filter and it squirts real good and the jets are squirting strong as well.

The only thing I can think of is it must be something electrical that is preventing it from idling right?

Well to add more grief I pulled the leads of the solenoid and cleaned them. I had left the key in ACC on by mistake when I did this and when I put it back together the lead on the top right caused the starter to fire. Now if you turn the key to ACC on the jeep starts. Not cool!
I traced the engine harness from the solenoid all the way to the control module and fire wall and there are no crossed/melted wires on the engine harness(I pulled every inch out of the black plastic --not fun!) so the problem must be under the dash somewhere?

What should I do? I am in desperate need of a car right now so I would like to be driving my CJ ASAP. Is the problem most likely electical? If so I can just tow to the local automotive wiring shop and have them do it. I cant see how the tranny would cause this since the engine isnt computer controlled like modern cars.

Did you happen to cross these two wires? One goes to the switch and is hot with the key in start. The other supplies 12V to the coil when the key is in ign. If these are crossed, I can see it trying to start in the Acc position.

 

[mylittlecj5]

Ok so my T-5 went out and I elected to do an AX15 replacement. I drove the CJ in fourth gear(the only one that worked still) to the place where I have been working on it and it idled fine. I spent the last couple weeks swapping in the AX15 and in the process the only things I had to change electrically were the leads for the reverse pickup on the tranny and the starter from the DOnor required an extra line to allow it to fire the starter (I just wired this directly to the same line as the original starter).

I first ran that extra lead to the acc on line but the truck wouldnt stay started once the engine caught. so I ran straight to the same lead that originally connected to the starter and the engine would start and stay running so long as i depressed the gas. once I let go of the gas it would just die. I thought maybe it was just cause it was cold but once I warmed it up to operating temp still would just die. My first thought was fuel? but I checked the output on the fuel filter and it squirts real good and the jets are squirting strong as well.

The only thing I can think of is it must be something electrical that is preventing it from idling right?

Well to add more grief I pulled the leads of the solenoid and cleaned them. I had left the key in ACC on by mistake when I did this and when I put it back together the lead on the top right caused the starter to fire. Now if you turn the key to ACC on the jeep starts. Not cool!
I traced the engine harness from the solenoid all the way to the control module and fire wall and there are no crossed/melted wires on the engine harness(I pulled every inch out of the black plastic --not fun!) so the problem must be under the dash somewhere?

What should I do? I am in desperate need of a car right now so I would like to be driving my CJ ASAP. Is the problem most likely electical? If so I can just tow to the local automotive wiring shop and have them do it. I cant see how the tranny would cause this since the engine isnt computer controlled like modern cars.

Actually try moving this wire to the S position on the solenoid instead of directly to the main battery lead.

 

[ThisGuyUKnow]

what is the S position?

 

[mylittlecj5]

Assuming your solenoid has 2 small terminals between the large lugs (some have only one) one has a small S above it and the other has an I above it. Power from your ignition switch start position MUST go to the S terminal. Its normally the one closest to the cable going directly to the battery.

 

[ThisGuyUKnow]

Assuming your solenoid has 2 small terminals between the large lugs (some have only one) one has a small S above it and the other has an I above it. Power from your ignition switch start position MUST go to the S terminal. Its normally the one closest to the cable going directly to the battery.

First of all thank you it is dark so couldnt see any i's or s's will look in the light but you were right I accidentally switched the two little post on the top of the solenoid.

I originally had hooked that line up to the post that connects to the acc on line but for some reason the cj would not stay started even if i gave it gas it would catch turn a few rotations then die. then I just ran the line to the same as the main wire for the the starter and ended up starting and staying running if you give it gas but as soon as you let go it will die once it reaches idle speed.

I am thinking about getting a push button as an experiment and running to this line on the starter as its the only thing I can think would cause this issue.

 

[mylittlecj5]

OK lets go a little slower now.
Are you thinking that the soleniod has an ACC on terminal? It doesn't. The I terminal gives the coil a full 12v while cranking to help with starting, nothing else. The only place to get ACC power is from the Ignition switch ACC terminal.
Seems to me you have (had) 2 different problems. Knowing you had just changed the Transmission , you might look to see if you have some dirt clogging the jets in the carb, dislodged from the shaking while doing the Transmission . swap.

I originally had hooked that line up to the post that connects to the acc on line but for some reason the cj would not stay started even if i gave it gas it would catch turn a few rotations then die. then I just ran the line to the same as the main wire for the the starter and ended up starting and staying running if you give it gas but as soon as you let go it will die once it reaches idle speed.

What color is this line? and where is it connected now? at both ends.
And please fill in your profile so we can see what year/model/drivetrain/ect. you have. We'd need that to be able to track down where its supposed to go.
​

 

[ThisGuyUKnow]

LittLecj
I have an 82 CJ7 with AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l . With a Hei and Taurus fan modification.


The original starter on mine had only one wire running to it. The new 4.0 starter has an extra post that if it isn,t getting power the starter won't fire. So the wire is just one I had lying around.

My solenoid has two little posts on top. One gets power in the acc, the other gets power when the key is pushed to start. These are the two I got backwards and caused it to start In acc in.

I will take pics today.

 

[Old Dog]

Are you sure you mean ACC and not run position. It's starting to sound like you mean the pos. between off and start which is run.

And you still need to fill out your profile. We wont remember what you have next time, and will have to ask again.

 

[mylittlecj5]

Hmm, I don't know that much about the AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l starters or that extra wire.

So does it idle better now? Or are we still working on that part?

 

[ThisGuyUKnow]

It is still not idling. I must be talking about the run position . I haven't made it outside yet today work on it push come to shove i will hook up the front drive shaft and drive to a mechanic but I would like to fix this myself. I am really starting to dislike my CJ

 

[Cheepjeep85]

heres a crucial question for you what year is the starter from? you said you got the starter from the same model as the tranny right? i ask this because a jeep with the ax 15 tranny will have the gm style starter with a solenoid built in, in which case you can completely do away with the old ford style solenoid on the fender. you may be trying to run two solenoids without knowing it. this is how it should look without the ford solenoid, of course you won't need the nuetral safety switch part of it either

now you should be able to wire it like this if you want to try to keep the ford solenoid and the starter mounted solenoid

this is were i got this information seeing as you are using a gm style starter and also have a ford style solenoid you should be able to do this modification. Adding a Remote Starter Solenoid to your Chevy, My Way

 

[ThisGuyUKnow]

As it sits today the truck will start if you pump the gas and then will stay running so long as I keep my foot on the pedal but other wise will stutter and die. It seems to just not be getting any fuel at idle. I called a local mechanic today and he thinks that it could be a problem inside the carb. He also told me that it is not likely that the tranny work I have been doing would cause this so that was a releif. He said I may not be getting enough fuel pressure from the pump or that the problem could be in the carb and it may either need to be rebuilt or taken apart and cleaned... The darn thing ran when I parked it to drop the tranny what the heck could have happened between now and then???

 

[ThisGuyUKnow]

heres a crucial question for you what year is the starter from? you said you got the starter from the same model as the tranny right? i ask this because a jeep with the ax 15 tranny will have the gm style starter with a solenoid built in, in which case you can completely do away with the old ford style solenoid on the fender. you may be trying to run two solenoids without knowing it. this is how it should look without the ford solenoid, of course you won't need the nuetral safety switch part of it either

now you should be able to wire it like this if you want to try to keep the ford solenoid and the starter mounted solenoid

this is were i got this information seeing as you are using a gm style starter and also have a ford style solenoid you should be able to do this modification. Adding a Remote Starter Solenoid to your Chevy, My Way

That sounds likely it is a solenoid on the starter itself I can hear click when you put power to it just like the one on the fender does. Is there any way that the two solenoids being hooked up is preventing it to idle?

 

[ThisGuyUKnow]

Ok so I ran the heavier gauge wire that runs to the starter to the battery, then I disconnected the S post on the fender solenoid and ran the connector to the post on the Starter. It will stay running now but not well. At least it will idle without me pushing the gas. It still is stumbling and occasionally will try to die.

Is it possible that the carb is gunked up? Maybe some of what was gunking it up broke loose but there is still some crud in there? I was thinking it maybe be a timing issue? Does anyone know what you should set the timing on an HEI to? I think it is 8deg above TDC?

 

[mylittlecj5]

I think I mentioned the carb might have some debris in it earlier...

 

[Old Dog]

Ok so I ran the heavier gauge wire that runs to the starter to the battery, then I disconnected the S post on the fender solenoid and ran the connector to the post on the Starter. It will stay running now but not well. At least it will idle without me pushing the gas. It still is stumbling and occasionally will try to die.

check to be sure you are getting 12v at the coil.
I would even hot wire it and see if it will run. Just to be sure it has nothing to due with voltage.

 

[ThisGuyUKnow]

check to be sure you are getting 12v at the coil.

I gave to drive back to mobile tomorrow so no time to keep working on it. I luckily have a front tow bar for the cj so I will be towing it with me. Will update when I get back to mobile. I really wanted to leave Michaela with her cj running but looks like that isn,t going to happen.

 

[ThisGuyUKnow]

I think I mentioned the carb might have some debris in it earlier...

Hey sorry I should have quoted you when I said that.
I was asking if it were possible that some Ochs debris cleared out allowing it to idle but stil left enough to cause it to idle like or if the crappy idle is now indicative of a problem elsewhere?

 

[mylittlecj5]

If the carb fuel bowls look pretty clean, the next thing I'd check is to see if a vacuum line got disconnected somewhere, causing the bad idle.
Actually, I'd probably check that first, since its pretty easy to do.
Since it ran good before you changed the Transmission , its most likely related to that work being done. Either something got loose, disconnected, bumped, or got broken while the Transmission . was being R&R'ed. If you look at it from that point, there isn't really a lot that could have gone wrong.


Oh and no worries..I was just messin' with ya....