How long can drive train componets sit before being installed?

[class 3]

Hi
I am new to this forum. I am planning on rebuilding my 1976 CJ5 .
I took it apart in 1989 and over the years have slowly been working on it.
The AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l engine, T-18 Transmission , model 20 Transfer Case were all rebuilt in 2003.
My question on the motor, Transmission , and Transfer Case is: do they need to be rebuilt since they have been sitting for almost 10 years in the garage?
Also can anyone recommend any shops or clubs that specialize in rebuilding my jeep in the los angeles / san fernando valley?
Thanks!

 

[mtnwhlr]

The only problem with letting them sit that long will be the gaskets drying out and leaking.

 

[Les]

I'm sure there will be several opinions about what to do in your situation, where you have an engine that was rebuilt long ago, but has sat since then. I would do the following:

1. Remove the spark plugs and squirt a bit of oil in all the cylinders and also remove valve covers and lube top end.

2. While the spark plugs are out, turn the engine over with a wrench to see if the pistons are free in the cylinders.

3. If the engine is free, fill it with new oil, put valve covers back on and leave spark plugs out.

4. Obtain a priming shaft, which is a tool that fits on the end of a drill, remove the distributor, then insert the tool in the hole and use it to actuate the oil pump, which will lubricate the engine, bearings, pressurize the lifters and prepare it to run. Prime the engine with the drill, turn the crankshaft 1/4 turn with wrench and prime again, turn another 1/4 turn and prime, and so on, til you get it all the way around. Reinsert the distributor and get a baseline timing set and then turn engine over with starter with plugs out to blow oil out of cylinders.
** You can also use a long flat blade screwdriver for a priming shaft, with the handle removed, the blade ground to the proper diameter and inserted into your drill.**

5. Reinsert the plugs, fire the engine, while watching closely for oil pressure indication on the gauge (kill it if no psi within a few seconds), and let it idle til it begins to come up to temperature. Once engine exhibits normal operation, you can get out the timing light.

6. Provided there are no indications of leaks, you can begin the normal break in procedures.

7. After you drive around and operate the engine for about 100 miles, I would go back and change the oil and filter again, while looking for any abnormalities. While it is not required, you can also cut open the oil filter, and spread out the filter media on the workbench and examine it for contaminants. The presence of metal fragments will indicate a problem and can point you in the direction of what the problem is. Such as, non-magnetic fragments would indicate bearing material, etc..

If the engine is frozen when you check it, there is a way to possibly free it up, without having to tear it down, so don't panic if that's the case.

As far as your Transmission and Transfer Case , make sure they are filled with fresh oil, and turned over by hand and they should be ok.

Good luck...