Installing a locker

[Hedgehog]

G2 Axle and Gear - G2 Clamshell Bearing Puller | 4WheelParts.com

Clam shell bearing pullers are pricey about $200 and up. If you can barrow one as I did you will be ahead. You have a press, but you don't need one. With the proper setting tools ..... a cup type seating tool and a hammer ..... you can set your bearings well enough. When setting bearings with a hammer you will know when its set by the hammer bounce. I actually didn't get the magnet caliper, even though I believe it's the way to go. I got the one with a vice grip clamp and a goose neck. Lots of moving parts, it was fussy to use and difficult to get a consistent repeatable reading .... then I realized that the screw that attached the goose neck to the vice grips fit the threads in the differential cover. I tossed the vice grip in the storage box, after that getting repeatable readings was a piece of cake. I did have some difficulty finding shims that properly fit my E-locker and Eaton was no help at all. I found that to be extremely disappointing. The shims I ended up using worked and were repeatable, but I didn't really like the way they distorted when the bearing was set.

By-the-way this work is very expensive to have done. For instance a set of ring and pinion gears or changing gear ratios will cost in the neighborhood of $1,000 per axle to have done.

I mentioned Harbor Freight. I have many of their tools and they have served me well, but you need to know what you are looking at. Some of their tools have amazing quality for the price, some are absolute junk. Look closely at what you are buying is all I'm advising to you.

This si the thread where Lumpy and others helped me. It's got lots of pictures, i's also very long showing some pit falls along the way. If I'd started with the proper gear mesh paste I would have been done almost at the beginning. Why, because the final gear set and pinion depth ended up almost right where I started. http://www.jeep-cj.com/forums/f2/differential-gear-pattern-24594/

 

[mriplaybass]

I'll get a magnetic dial indicator. I have a digital slide caliper, but could pick up a dial type if necessary. I also have an inch pounds "click" type torque wrench, but will get the pointer type if that's better. As Hedge said, I'll also find a clamshell puller. I have a 20 ton press, so I'm good there.

I think with all the good info from the forum, I'm ready to give it a try. It'll be a couple of weeks before I can tackle it, but I'll update the forum when I'm done.

Thanks again to all. You guys are great.

Don't forget to use gear paint to verify correct gear mesh.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

I'll get a magnetic dial indicator. I have a digital slide caliper, but could pick up a dial type if necessary. I also have an inch pounds "click" type torque wrench, but will get the pointer type if that's better. As Hedge said, I'll also find a clamshell puller. I have a 20 ton press, so I'm good there.

I think with all the good info from the forum, I'm ready to give it a try. It'll be a couple of weeks before I can tackle it, but I'll update the forum when I'm done.

Thanks again to all. You guys are great.

You need a FT/LB torque wrench to torque the carrier bearing cap bolts. Also the ring gear bolts if it comes down to it. A 'clicker' type is handy here. Do not go the cheap on this wrench either.
You will also need to mark the carrier bearing caps so they they go back in EXACTLY the same place/position. I use a center punch for this, near the top of the cap, but below the bolt head put 1 punch dimple for the passenger side and on the other I put 2 dimples.
There is also no guarantee that that the use of 'set-up' bearings will give you the correct pattern and backlash.
When you do check pattern & BL be sure the carrier bearing are fully torqued to spec and check the pattern and BL in at least 3 locations.
You will also want to see what the BL is BEFORE you remove the carrier you have in now. Going .001-.002 less BL with the new bearings will not hurt a thing.
I will say this-IF you are changing carriers. You should plan on a full resetting of both the pinion and ring gear.
I just finished such a deal today for a friend.
LG

 

[Oldguyinajeep]

Hedge, I'm very familiar with Harbor Freight, and I agree that some tools are a bargain (especially for infrequent use) and some are junk. I always go in with my eyes wide open in that regard. Lumpy, I've got good Snap-on "clicker" torque wrenches, but what will I need the dial-type inch/pounds wrench for?

I've watched a couple of videos on the Dana 30 Elocker install. One of the points brought up was the same as Hedge stated, that Dana 30 shims won't work. The video showed the guy using some shims that were WAY too big I.D. Is this a concern??? If you wind up using Dana 44 bearings, aren't proper fitting Dana 44 shims available? Also, this may be a stupid question, but, are all Dana 30 and Dana 44 carriers the same size, respectively? That is, if I go in to the local driveline specialty shop and ask for Dana 44 bearings, there's only one size, correct?

Also, I've seen a white grease used to check the gear pattern years ago, but Bass mentions gear paint. Is this a special spray on grease, or something similar? Sure seems like that would be easier than smearing grease on each tooth.

Thanks again guys. I'm sure I'll have more questions.

 

[Oldguyinajeep]

I read your "Differential gear pattern" link. Fascinating. I could almost feel the frustration! Question: What is a case spreader?

 

[Lumpy Grits]

Hedge, I'm very familiar with Harbor Freight, and I agree that some tools are a bargain (especially for infrequent use) and some are junk. I always go in with my eyes wide open in that regard. Lumpy, I've got good Snap-on "clicker" torque wrenches, but what will I need the dial-type inch/pounds wrench for?

I've watched a couple of videos on the Dana 30 Elocker install. One of the points brought up was the same as Hedge stated, that Dana 30 shims won't work. The video showed the guy using some shims that were WAY too big I.D. Is this a concern??? If you wind up using Dana 44 bearings, aren't proper fitting Dana 44 shims available? Also, this may be a stupid question, but, are all Dana 30 and Dana 44 carriers the same size, respectively? That is, if I go in to the local driveline specialty shop and ask for Dana 44 bearings, there's only one size, correct?

Also, I've seen a white grease used to check the gear pattern years ago, but Bass mentions gear paint. Is this a special spray on grease, or something similar? Sure seems like that would be easier than smearing grease on each tooth.

Thanks again guys. I'm sure I'll have more questions.

I never said in/lbs----I have said more than once, FT/LB.
The spreader is used to flex the axle housing some to 'release' the carrier because they are installed with a bearing pre-load.
LG

 

[mriplaybass]

Hedge, I'm very familiar with Harbor Freight, and I agree that some tools are a bargain (especially for infrequent use) and some are junk. I always go in with my eyes wide open in that regard. Lumpy, I've got good Snap-on "clicker" torque wrenches, but what will I need the dial-type inch/pounds wrench for?

I've watched a couple of videos on the Dana 30 Elocker install. One of the points brought up was the same as Hedge stated, that Dana 30 shims won't work. The video showed the guy using some shims that were WAY too big I.D. Is this a concern??? If you wind up using Dana 44 bearings, aren't proper fitting Dana 44 shims available? Also, this may be a stupid question, but, are all Dana 30 and Dana 44 carriers the same size, respectively? That is, if I go in to the local driveline specialty shop and ask for Dana 44 bearings, there's only one size, correct?

Also, I've seen a white grease used to check the gear pattern years ago, but Bass mentions gear paint. Is this a special spray on grease, or something similar? Sure seems like that would be easier than smearing grease on each tooth.

Thanks again guys. I'm sure I'll have more questions.

Yes, Dana 44 bearings are the same. As to the shims, use Dana 44 shims. Mine were a little too large as the Youtube videos show, but they still do the job. I referred to an inch pound torque wrench. This torque wrench is used to establish pinion and carrier pre-load. Pinion pre-load if I remember correctly is 10 to 15 inch pounds. Once your carrier shims are correct, a lot of people just add another .001 to .002 of shims on each side and call it done. I like to use the torque wrench and add an additional 7 to 12 inch pounds for the carrier by inserting the correct size shims instead of just guessing. All readings are done at the pinion nut. A 1/4" drive bicycle torque wrench works great. You will need adapters to use the larger socket) I was referring to a "pointer" type of wrench. The dial, and click wrenches don't work as well.


If you check out the Elocker on Summits site: Eaton Electronic ELocker Differentials 19818-010 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing
They tell you which bearings to order (they also had the best price for the locker) The reason they now list the bearings is because when I originally ordered my locker, they sent me Dana 30 bearings and they would not fit. They had to pay for return shipping and send me new bearings. Remember to order the correct locker for your gear ratio.

Here is a link the the gear marking compound: 500 Marking Compound

If you decide to use a case spreader, be very careful! The axle housing is cast and will only flex a few thousandths before cracking . It is not all that difficult to "work" the carrier into place without one, and a lot safer.

Great book to have: Differentials by Jim Allen & Randy Lyman isbn 13:978-1-4243-2661-7

 

[Lumpy Grits]

That preload spec is for just the pinion-No carrier in place.
Don't forget when check'n backlash and preload that the bearings must be oiled and the gear teeth lubed.
The biggest deal with cheap tools is the fact they never save you any $$$.
For anydangbody who has never set-up a R&P. I can not say this strongly enough. Go to a shop that does this kind of work and watch it being done-Then decide IF it's what you want to do.
Respectfully,
LG

 

[mriplaybass]

That preload spec is for just the pinion-No carrier in place.
Don't forget when check'n backlash and preload that the bearings must be oiled and the gear teeth lubed.
The biggest deal with cheap tools is the fact they never save you any $$$.
For anydangbody who has never set-up a R&P. I can not say this strongly enough. Go to a shop that does this kind of work and watch it being done-Then decide IF it's what you want to do.
Respectfully,
LG

Absolutely agree with LG. Differentials are not the usual shade tree mechanic kind of item. If you can watch someone do one, or better yet, help you do yours, you will save yourself a lot of head aches

 

[Hedgehog]

I really like the gear patterning grease/paint/stuff? from GM as shown in my thread and suggested by Lumpy and others. It's inexpensive and easy to find at any GM parts department. I can't stress this enough, USE IT! Most of the pattern examples you see are done with this product so you have an accurate same/same example to go by. Doing mine was a bit of a struggle, but as it turned out, only because I didn't start out with the right patterning paste. As I said before, I had it right on the second or third attempt, but didn't trust myself and though the advice was very sincere, I was easily led to distrust myself. But in all those attempts I did learn a lot. The second attempt, the rear Dana 44 , went quickly and smoothly.

Oddly enough I haven't installed the front axle yet, the second one, the rear has been in for months now. My friend is impressed. The axle runs smooth and quiet with no detectable back lash. Which is good, because the ring and pinion that was in the CJ was not right, it was too loose and sloppy by comparison.

 

[ksouthw80]

prussion blue?

 

[Hedgehog]

Tried it, makes a big ugly mess that is almost impossible to read. I'm still finding blue stains where there shouldn't be blue stains. Don't fight it like I did, go to a GM part s department and get the right stuff. or at least one of the right products. Honestly it's not expensive either.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

prussion blue?

NO--

Get the stuff HH was talk'n about. Use a small 'acid' brush to apply.
My Chevy dealer had a tube of it. It's mine now
Used it last R&P set up-Works great.
BTW: CK pattern and backlash in at least 2 places if not 3.
LG