Is this fuel filter location ok in my AMC 360?

[1994ranger]

HI all,

I recently bought a 1979 CJ7 with a swapped AMC 360. The engine came with a D.U.I. distributor installed, and it seems that I read that relocating the fuel filter with this distributor is required.

Most photos I've seen have the fuel filter above the engine, but mine is below and near the fuel pump. Is this ok? I am going to change this soon and was curious if the entire assembly needed to be moved.

Thanks!

 

[Lumpy Grits]

No- Move it to the OEM location, ASAP.
Get that rubber hose AWAY from the exhaust.
You have the makings of a huge engine fire...........
LG

 

[1994ranger]

Thanks Lumpy for helping a newb out. Could I replace the rubber lines with something like this? Looks like its rated to 400F. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-220985

The rubber lines are marked "fuel injection" - guessing the previous owner got something rated to carry fuel but I don't know the temperature ratings.

Thanks for the heads up!

 

[Lumpy Grits]

That routing is not OEM as it is also a great source for vapor lock to take place.
The FI rating is for psi is all.
You'll see 400* 5 minutes after start up. A IR temp gauge will prove this to be.
LG

 

[1994ranger]

That routing is not OEM as it is also a great source for vapor lock to take place.
The FI rating is for psi is all.
You'll see 400* 5 minutes after start up. A IR temp gauge will prove this to be.
LG

Thanks. I am new to this. Is the real issue the location of the fuel filter, the location of the rubber hose next to the exhaust, or both? It sounds like both.

What kind of flexible line should I use to replace the hoses? What else should be replaced?

 

[Lumpy Grits]

Both-
Use hard metal line.
Search for pics of the OEM setup that comes in from the front of the engine.
LG

 

[JR74CJ5]

Both-
Use hard metal line.
Search for pics of the OEM setup that comes in from the front of the engine.
LG

LG - the problem with the OEM hard lines and the original factory placement is the DUI distributor. The cap is so much larger, and the fuel line is actually a bit in the way in it's normal spot, however, it is doable. Just troublesome and a PITA...

OP - I have hooker headers with rubber fuel line from rear to the pump, and then the hard line adapted to the top of the engine. My headers run over 800 degrees pretty quick. The routing, and some insulating are important, and LG is right you need to watch them closely for signs of wear and cracks and replace as needed. But I do agree from photos, it appears yours are dangerously close, especially with the inside frame rails stock manifolds. My filter is on top, and is aftermarket glass type with the little screen in it. Here is a photo of it. It does still interfere with the DUI cap a bit.

 

[1994ranger]

Thanks JR! That pic is helpful. I have called a buddy who is going to help me run the new lines since I've never done it before.

A coworker said running fuel lines that close to a distributor could be a risk due to the amount of spark going on there. He said if a cable came loose when a line was leaking then I'd also have a big problem. Would running the lines from the pump to the carb on the other side of the engine be better?

I found a pic of the idea I'm trying to convey. I think this is a vacuum line running just below the oil cap tower and the water pump. Would that area be better to run a line than where you have it?

Thanks!

 

[JR74CJ5]

Sure - always better to keep fuel and spark / heat away from each other until they're in the engine where they're supposed to meet!

To be fair, anytime you have a fuel leak you can potentially have a big problem...

Let us know what you guys come up with