Is This Normal?

[hdgapeach]

No, it’s absolutely NOT normal. Everything already mentioned is worth the trouble of checking out. If you’re lucky, it’ll be one or more of what everyone has suggested.

Personally, I have experienced the same ride characteristic with my CJ5 when I purchased it. It had a homemade shackle reversal modification that did nothing but make the ride harsh and the steering absolutely horrifying, because the modification altered the caster a ridiculous amount!

My CJ has a cheap 4” lift on it like yours, probably something along the lines of Rough Country brand. The “fix” for mine was to go back to the stock orientation for the shackles and hangers (kept the cheap lift). I tweaked the reverse set up until I nearly went loco and never got the Jeep to ride better than a buck board wagon. Going back to the original set up solved 100% of the ride quality and steering issues. I never intended to use the Jeep for the type of wheeling the reversal system was engineered to do, so it didn’t hurt my feelings one bit by going back to a stock engineered arrangement.

If all else fails in your attempt to get decent ride quality with what you have now, the original set up will get you the ride you’re looking for, even with the cheap lift springs. If you’re planning to do all the rock climbing and serious trail riding that the reverse shackle system is meant to perform in, you’re going to have to break out the protractor, level and rest of the tools it’ll take to minimize the issues you have now.

 

[Vvajk]

I like this idea of going back to stock. I'm okay to drop a few bucks for a legit lift kit too. But yeah, I'm not a hardcore wheeler. Snapping axels on the weekends is not my idea of fun. I do like to ride trails here and there ... I'd like to be more than a street queen / mall crawler for sure.

So you kept the lift and ride height, but just put stock hangers and shackles on instead?

 

[007]

I like this idea of going back to stock. I'm okay to drop a few bucks for a legit lift kit too. But yeah, I'm not a hardcore wheeler. Snapping axels on the weekends is not my idea of fun. I do like to ride trails here and there ... I'd like to be more than a street queen / mall crawler for sure.

So you kept the lift and ride height, but just put stock hangers and shackles on instead?

If I'm you and have some money...I get a YJ / OME conversion with 2.5 lift and never look back.

 

[CJim7]

If I'm you and have some money...I get a YJ / OME conversion with 2.5 lift and never look back.

This will give you a nice ride. Even 4" YJ springs will be huge step up from what I saw in your video.

I just want to clarify something about SRS's. The sole purpose of a shackle reverse is to improve ride quality. It forces the axle to go with the flow of impact rather then against (such as in a stock setup.) That's why an SRS typically offers much smoother driving characteristics.
Offroad characteristics were NEVER taken into consideration in the development of the SRS....strictly street handeling.

When the suspension works in a stock configuration, the axle moves forward as the spring compresses. This is positive, desirable compression when it comes to hill climbing or rock crawling...it essentially presses the tires forward.
An SRS moves the axle back during spring compression and works against traction.
I've seen some absolutely horrendous accidents during hill climbs because of SRS where wheel-hop was created by the rear-ward axle movement.

SRS are best kept to street rigs where they can take advantage of the smoother handling qualities provided by the reverse axle movement.

 

[Posi]

I have to respectfully disagree. The Willys MB came from the factory with SRS and they were built strictly for offroad use. The M38a1 and the early 55 CJ5 were SRS to name a few others as well.
I rather go over a rock/log with SRS then a shackle front much smoother entry, personally I feel a shackle front would pop up the front end over obstacles more so then a SRS front.

 

[CJim7]

I rather go over a rock/log with SRS then a shackle front much smoother entry, personally I feel a shackle front would pop up the front end over obstacles more so then a SRS front.

That smoother entry is the lack of positive down-force ...something that creates more grip with the tire. Because that axle wants to move away from the point of contact.

Thus....wheelhop and a very dangerous situation. I've seen it too often with SRS.

And there's a reason they got away from SRS on the earlier jeeps. If it was such a boon, they would have stayed with it.
These vehicles were designed for cross country traversing, not rock crawling. And at some point in history jeep sacrificed ride quality for offroad capability by putting the shackles back up front where the suspension dynamics could better serve traction and stability.

There is a place for SRS and it's mostly for comfort on the street.
Yes, I've seen some very bad situations created solely by SRS that never would have occurred with stock shackle location

 

[tarry99]

The Debacle over Shackle forward or Reverse will go on forever.........Both can be made to work and while reversal has some good things it also has some bad things and like wise for the shackle forward............

Your Problem is you have to much spring ( stored energy ) in the spring packs............meaning your springs are to stiff to be compliant for what your needs are..........The other problem is that you also have to correct the shackle angle............if the shackle is not laying over from 20-45 degrees at ride height regardless of what springs you have it will never ride very well...

People need lift springs for clearance of bigger tires, and more upward body clearance while on the trail.......the price they pay using lift springs is a ruff ride...........You seem not to have any of those needs.

Take a leave out of the spring pack and see if that settles your ride down while also correcting your shackle angle.............returning your vehicle back to stock may be an option , but with the current components nothing will change............Try working with what you have.

 

[CJim7]

The Debacle over Shackle forward or Reverse will go on forever........

Lol...for sure. Apologies for straying away from the OP's current problem

 

[Posi]

Just a note, when climbing rock/hill most of the traction is with the rear axle.
In years past I've gone a full season without pulling cable with SRS, where other front shackle similar built rigs have.......which proves almost nothing, but I'd figured I would throw that in.

 

[CJim7]

Just a note, when climbing rock/hill most of the traction is with the rear axle.
In years past I've gone a full season without pulling cable with SRS, where other front shackle similar built rigs have.......which proves almost nothing, but I'd figured I would throw that in.

Don't forget the serious nose-diving when coming off obstacles or simply going down hill

 

[hdgapeach]

I like this idea of going back to stock. I'm okay to drop a few bucks for a legit lift kit too. But yeah, I'm not a hardcore wheeler. Snapping axels on the weekends is not my idea of fun. I do like to ride trails here and there ... I'd like to be more than a street queen / mall crawler for sure.

So you kept the lift and ride height, but just put stock hangers and shackles on instead?

Yep! I bought new hanger brackets for the front and rear and re-used the shackles up front. Biggest expense was for the grade 8 bolts, nuts & washers I used to mount the new brackets. New brackets are available online from any one of a dozen or more suppliers - and pretty cheap, too!

Most amount of elbow grease I spent on the install was drilling the holes in the side of the frame rails so I could drop lock washers and nuts on the bolt threads inside the boxed in part of the frame. I used a hole saw that was just big enough to get the washer and nut through the hole and then ground the sides of a cheap 3/4" box end wrench down enough to slide through the hole and hold the nut so I could tighten the bolt. Welding would have been a better option but, I don't have power in my shop except what's supplied by a drop cord from the house (110 volt) for lighting. 220 power in the house and the Jeep in the shop on jack stands 100 + feet away makes it difficult to power the welder .

After correcting the shackle reversal, I gave the Jeep a ride to check how it would act. I was expecting the cheap lift to still make it ride like . I was surprised. It road great, so I left the lift as it was. Been that way for a few years now and other than checking the torque on the new bolts every now and then, it's been trouble free (so far).

 

[mtnwhlr]

I think this is a good read on the SRS topic
http://www.google.com/url?url=http:...ggUMAA&usg=AFQjCNExRshgYTPCTyLsUq8sMb9V9U5lhQ

 

[Vvajk]

I think for now, I'll follow the easiest advice and check into softer shocks and makings sure my bolts aren't too tight. And I think I'll start pinching my pennies for that 2.5" OME YJ conversion. Sounds like a good option to me. Meanwhile, it's still very drivable and still brings joy to my heart.

As always you guys have been a huge help.

 

[Vvajk]

if the shackle is not laying over from 20-45 degrees at ride height regardless of what springs you have it will never ride very well.

Could you elaborate on this or explain it a bit more? I'm not sure what this means.

 

[Petescj]

I think for now, I'll follow the easiest advice and check into softer shocks and makings sure my bolts aren't too tight. And I think I'll start pinching my pennies for that 2.5" OME YJ conversion. Sounds like a good option to me. Meanwhile, it's still very drivable and still brings joy to my heart.

As always you guys have been a huge help.

That sounds like a good decision you won't regret. For what you want that's enough lift and supposed to the best quality ride you'll get. A bit pricey but I'm leaning toward one for the 82 myself.

 

[tarry99]

Could you elaborate on this or explain it a bit more? I'm not sure what this means.

Take a look at the drawing............the shackle will have the effect to soften the ride when it has an angle like 20-45 degrees........the lesser the angle is ( more vertical ) the shackle is the more aggressive the spring will be.

 

[Vvajk]

So, I've been looking at the OME lift and (as some have pointed out) it looks like I'll need new spring hangers for the front. Does anyone know if these need to be welded on, or do they bolt up to the frame? I crawled under there for a second and can't tell.

 

[007]

If you do this you will be going back to a stock (shackle in front) setup. It will require wider hangers in rear and wider shackles of you do a YJ conversion as they are wider leaves.

The rear axle stuff should work in stock form.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[CJim7]

So, I've been looking at the OME lift and (as some have pointed out) it looks like I'll need new spring hangers for the front. Does anyone know if these need to be welded on, or do they bolt up to the frame? I crawled under there for a second and can't tell.

They should bolt up to the bottom of the frame.

As long as the previous owner didn't hack and weld the hell out of frame horns there should be bolt holes. They may be under the SRS hangers.

Take some pictures for us.

 

[007]

Depending on who you buy from, a YJ to CJ conversion (OME or otherwise) can have a shackle mount that bolts to sides of the frame as well as to the bottom frame.

This one is from Rocky-Road Outfitters...