Leaky water pump

Leaky water pump
jswatson0917

jswatson0917

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Location
Mystic, CT
Vehicle(s)
1979 CJ7 304 T-150 D20 D30 AMC20
2000 Subaru Outback Limited
OK the water pump on my '79 CJ7 with the V-8 is leaking there are two small holes the were put there one on top and one on the bottom. I have water coming out of the bottom hole for some reason. The pump spins fine dosen't bind, grind or anything else like that. I have included two pictures one of the top hole and one of the bottom hole with the water coming out.
 
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thats called a weep hole, and it means the internal seals in the pump are going out. Replace the pump.
 
:dung: I knew that was what I needed to for some reason. Any reccomendations for a water pump? Edelbrock, FlowKooler or another brand?
 
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A weep hole. See, learn something new every day.
 
I have nothing further to add just wanted to agree with everybody else (replace the pump). And yup weep hole :D.
 
If you drive on the road most of the time a high flow pump can auctally make it run hot, it pumps water so fast it doesn't stay in the rad. long enough to cool down.
 
Old Dog, great minds must think alike :cool:. JS and I were talking about that at work earlier today, and I told him the exact same thing. I think I've talked him into to just buying the $45 oem replacement one from NAPA.
 
Old Dog said:
If you drive on the road most of the time a high flow pump can auctally make it run hot, it pumps water so fast it doesn't stay in the rad. long enough to cool down.
Click to expand...
The thermostat is designed to take care of this. If the temp is low, the T-stat close thereby resricting the flow of water through the radiator.

I have never had a problem with a high flow pump as long as the t-stat was
workingproperly.

Thoughts?
 
jswatson0917 said:
Tube rubber band? What is it and how would that be accomplished?
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Just replace the pump... That is a short term fix that just keeps the water from draining out of the casting hole.. :)
 
elwood blues said:
Old Dog, great minds must think alike :cool:. JS and I were talking about that at work earlier today, and I told him the exact same thing. I think I've talked him into to just buying the $45 oem replacement one from NAPA.
Click to expand...


Stopped in at NAPA today and surprise surprise none in stock. Living up to their name yet again...........!:biggun:
 
Here's what I know. The radiator, thermostat, and coolant runs through the block, were designed by people with much bigger brains than me. They were designed so at a specific GPM flow rate of coolant, and optimal air flow through the radiator, would keep the engine at a specific engine temp. If you increase the GPM rate, the coolant will not be in one place long enough to be affective (or effective, I can never remember the difference). Weather that's the block of the engine to conduct heat, or in the radiator to be cooled down.

Just my 2¢
 
I need to add something to this. I say what I say because jswatsons CJ is your dd variety, a lot of street, a little off road. If you're talking about a rock buggy that began it's life 32 years ago as a CJ, and never gets above 4.3MPH, then yes, 3 core aluminum radiator, high flow water pump all the way.

Does that make any sense?
 
If the water flows fast and does not allow the heat transfer without a thermostat the engine will over heat as (as you said the water in the rad. cannot transfer the heat out of the water to the air). But, if you have a properly working thermostat, the water is trapped in the radiator until the water can transfer the heat...

With a working thermostat, flow is irrelevant... :)

(I bet this turns into a GREAT discussion!) :)
 
elwood blues said:
I need to add something to this. I say what I say because jswatsons CJ is your dd variety, a lot of street, a little off road. If you're talking about a rock buggy that began it's life 32 years ago as a CJ, and never gets above 4.3MPH, then yes, 3 core aluminum radiator, high flow water pump all the way.

Does that make any sense?
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The radiator - yes... the other? :confused:
 
CJ said:
If the water flows fast and does not allow the heat transfer without a thermostat the engine will over heat as (as you said the water in the rad. cannot transfer the heat out of the water to the air). But, if you have a properly working thermostat, the water is trapped in the radiator until the water can transfer the heat...

With a working thermostat, flow is irrelevant... :)
Click to expand...


Got to respectfully disagree. Even with a properly working, let's say 195 degree (stock) thermostat, when the temp gets above 195 and the thermostat opens, now the coolant flow is greater than originally designed, and is flowing through the block faster, thus less heat conduction from the block.


CJ said:
(I bet this turns into a GREAT discussion!) :)
Click to expand...


x2
 
CJ said:
If the water flows fast and does not allow the heat transfer without a thermostat the engine will over heat as (as you said the water in the rad. cannot transfer the heat out of the water to the air). But, if you have a properly working thermostat, the water is trapped in the radiator until the water can transfer the heat...

With a working thermostat, flow is irrelevant... :)

(I bet this turns into a GREAT discussion!) :)
Click to expand...


Your thinking backward, once the engine gets hot and the stat. opens, if the incoming water is not cool yet (not enough time in the rad.) it will heat faster till finally the therm. stat will stay open and then it will over heat. As EB said works great off road but not so well on road. Trust me I know from experience.:eek:
 
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