Manual Brakes to Power Brakes
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Manual Brakes to Power Brakes
- Thread starter grunt
- Start date Start date:
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IOPort51
NOT the voice of reason Jeep-CJ.com
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- Vehicle(s)
- 1977 cj-5
4.2 W/MC2100 carb, 4.0 head W/3 angle valves,SS Header,TFI ignition with MSB-6 offroad module,CS144 140 amp RPS alternator with remote regulator T-150,d-20,Dana 44 with OX lock and disk brakes. D-30 with Spartin locker,
skyjacker 2.5 lift?nitro shocks,31" BFG A/T off road.8000 lb Warn winch, original owner.=^)
2006 Toyota Tacoma
If you do strech it be sure to get it straight and a good weld on the splice. that thing takes a lot of compression and it may not be totally straight pressure.
Is there any adjustment on the power booster adapter?
Is there any adjustment on the power booster adapter?
grunt
Active Jeeper
Ok ....thank for the replys. I think I'm going to take the booster rod off and cut it toward the brake pedal side ( not too close) , and use a die set and put threads on both sides of the cut and then use some sort of long threaded nut or turn buckle like this....
I'll have to find one somewhat shorter in length though...as for now for the brake switch I "super glued" a piece of hard rubber to the brake pedal tab and it works.....It might be a while but I will post pics when I'm done....
I'll have to find one somewhat shorter in length though...as for now for the brake switch I "super glued" a piece of hard rubber to the brake pedal tab and it works.....It might be a while but I will post pics when I'm done....
IOPort51
NOT the voice of reason Jeep-CJ.com
- Posts
- 13,956
- Featured
- 5
- Media
- 458
- Thanks
- 12
- Location
- Garland Texas
- Vehicle(s)
- 1977 cj-5
4.2 W/MC2100 carb, 4.0 head W/3 angle valves,SS Header,TFI ignition with MSB-6 offroad module,CS144 140 amp RPS alternator with remote regulator T-150,d-20,Dana 44 with OX lock and disk brakes. D-30 with Spartin locker,
skyjacker 2.5 lift?nitro shocks,31" BFG A/T off road.8000 lb Warn winch, original owner.=^)
2006 Toyota Tacoma
that sounds like a good plan. I would suggest an all thread connector from the home despot. you won't be able to adjust it in place, need to remove the rod adjust and put it back.
The problem with the turnbuckle is you will need a left hand thread die to thread one end of the rod. those are not available at the home despot.
The problem with the turnbuckle is you will need a left hand thread die to thread one end of the rod. those are not available at the home despot.
Ok ....thank for the replys. I think I'm going to take the booster rod off and cut it toward the brake pedal side ( not too close) , and use a die set and put threads on both sides of the cut and then use some sort of long threaded nut or turn buckle like this....
I'll have to find one somewhat shorter in length though...as for now for the brake switch I "super glued" a piece of hard rubber to the brake pedal tab and it works.....It might be a while but I will post pics when I'm done....
IOPort51
NOT the voice of reason Jeep-CJ.com
- Posts
- 13,956
- Featured
- 5
- Media
- 458
- Thanks
- 12
- Location
- Garland Texas
- Vehicle(s)
- 1977 cj-5
4.2 W/MC2100 carb, 4.0 head W/3 angle valves,SS Header,TFI ignition with MSB-6 offroad module,CS144 140 amp RPS alternator with remote regulator T-150,d-20,Dana 44 with OX lock and disk brakes. D-30 with Spartin locker,
skyjacker 2.5 lift?nitro shocks,31" BFG A/T off road.8000 lb Warn winch, original owner.=^)
2006 Toyota Tacoma
After posting here I started looking at mine. I just finished the 4 wheel power disc project, and decided I needed a bit more peddle. Added 1/4" to the peddle to adapter rod and picked up a little better than an inch of peddle height. As it was I could go to the floorboard with the engine running but not now. Power brakes ROCK!!
that sounds like a good plan. I would suggest an all thread connector from the home despot. you won't be able to adjust it in place, need to remove the rod adjust and put it back.
The problem with the turnbuckle is you will need a left hand thread die to thread one end of the rod. those are not available at the home despot.
I used this setup an my dodge ram diesel when I changer to bigger hydraulics for my clutch I needed only half inch at the rod itself so I cut the rod installed threads on one side and welded a coupling, like the picture, on the other side and used a another nut to pull down tight so it would turn (push rod for the hydralic turns freely in the master cylinder so the was the only way I knew for sure it would move
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