Need reviews on CJ aftermarket windshield frames please

[jonboy1919]

I have to replace my windshield frame due to semi-hidden stage 4 cancer. I need some confirmations/recommendations on the below quote. Have any of you fellow enthusiasts encountered a problem with wipers binding after buying an aftermarket windshield frame?

"One thing I'd like to ask you, though, is if you have a replacement windshield frame. Sometimes the hole locations on replacement windshield frames or aftermarket frames, are not accurately located, causing the wiper linkage to bind. Sometimes these frames have extra material on internal weld flanges, which can cause interference, thus binding." - Mark Lott, Rip Tech Engineering

I sense this is a problem on many Jeeps, although my wipers worked fine. Are there manufacturers whose frame is more accurately built and drilled, say Kentrol or Collins Bros?

Also, while I'm doing this, I thought about upgrading my wipers. Any reviews on the "WIPEBOY" product for CJ7s? Any and all info is appreciated. Thanks.

 

[Petescj]

Collins Bros is most likely going to sell you one from a parts Jeep they have there. It'll be a solid one but youll pay a premium price there.

Ive heard alot of storys about replacement frames and not too many were good. I myself havent used one. When I needed one for my Cj I found one through a local club member.

Id try using SearchTempest - The EASY way to search Craigslist to check the Craigslist ads near me and check any I found thoroughly.

 

[IOPort51]

http://collinsbros.stores.yahoo.net/steelwinparc.html


the only reason I would recommend this one to you is because it is , hopefully, the same one they sold me. the first thing I did when I went to pick it up was to check the gauge with a micrometer. So far I have no problems with this frame, it is the same material as used with the original. they did sell me the wrong gasket and I am not jumping up and down crazy about the cowl seal they sold me, it seems a bit wide but I am happy with the frame.


I agree with Pete I heard all the stories too and was really worried about buying one on flea bay.

I think that the problem with the frames is that the defrost air, warm and humid, condenses inside the frame and until it rusts through there is no way for it to get out.

 

[jonboy1919]

CJ


the only reason I would recommend this one to you is because it is , hopefully, the same one they sold me. the first thing I did when I went to pick it up was to check the gauge with a micrometer. So far I have no problems with this frame, it is the same material as used with the original. they did sell me the wrong gasket and I am not jumping up and down crazy about the cowl seal they sold me, it seems a bit wide but I am happy with the frame.

The second vote for Collins Bros. But I am confused, are they selling me a used original, windshield frame from a CJ or is this a re-production or aftermarket frame?

 

[IOPort51]

click on the link at the top of my post to go to the new replacement page. They may also be able to sell you a used frame in sound shape.

 

[PaRenegade]

I can only say this. I replaced mine in 1996 due to lots of rust. I don't recall the brand of mine but I'm thinking it may have been Kentrol. Only one hing hole was slightly off.
Something you should do, and I can attest to this after tearing it apart 15 years later is to spray the interior of the frame with Zero-Rust, POR, internal frame spray, whatever. Something needs to coat the inside. Coat the pinch weld that the glass goes against as well.
Also, make yourself something that will block the air from circulating the entire frame. This will help your defrosters work more efficiently and also keep the moisture out of the frame, one of the reasons it rusted to begin with was due to warm air condensating. I used some sheetmetal flaps and then sealed the edges with RTV. I also sealed around each hinge bolt hole with RTV blue before assembly, and across the bottom edge before putting the cowl seal on.

Besides a little surface rust behind the hinges, here's the only major rust on it. the inside was coated with zero-rust. The outside was just primer'd. This time it will first be sprayed with POR and I'll recoat the inside with some internal frame spray from Eastwood.

 

[jonboy1919]

I can only say this. I replaced mine in 1996 due to lots of rust. I don't recall the brand of mine but I'm thinking it may have been Kentrol. Only one hing hole was slightly off.
Something you should do, and I can attest to this after tearing it apart 15 years later is to spray the interior of the frame with Zero-Rust, POR, internal frame spray, whatever. Something needs to coat the inside. Coat the pinch weld that the glass goes against as well.
Also, make yourself something that will block the air from circulating the entire frame. This will help your defrosters work more efficiently and also keep the moisture out of the frame, one of the reasons it rusted to begin with was due to warm air condensating. I used some sheetmetal flaps and then sealed the edges with RTV. I also sealed around each hinge bolt hole with RTV blue before assembly, and across the bottom edge before putting the cowl seal on.

Besides a little surface rust behind the hinges, here's the only major rust on it. the inside was coated with zero-rust. The outside was just primer'd. This time it will first be sprayed with POR and I'll recoat the inside with some internal frame spray from Eastwood.

I am all in on POR 15. I will be coating the hell out of the internal defrost chamber and on the underside where the bottom meets the new body-to-frame gasket.

 

[73CJ]

Interesting comments on the defrost airflow. Never thought about that.

I did buy a Philipene made replacement frame for my 73. Minor metalwork required as was bondo to make it look decent. So far so good, but I think I will be blocking and coating (POR 15) the inside.

 

[72rtchallenger]

I agree with blocking it off,,I will be doing something like that with mine as well

 

[cherren]

I am about to get my replacement windshield repainted, I think I will also use the POR treatment, I have cans of that liquid expanda foam I think I will try & fill the cavities with that & cover each end need the demister with windscreen sealant.

 

[CRETE4U]

I don't think I would use the expanding foam. It's not closed cell foam and it will hold water.

 

[bondo258]

I'd pull the wiper shaft plugs out, and slit the outer defrost vents to divert some air into the frame, and minimize any condensation.

The darn soft top rail holes, and hood/hinge seal issues are the biggest culprits for water intrusion.

 

[YJason]

I used one from 4wd.com, had no problems.

 

[old blu]

I bought an aftermarket frame over a year ago, and while I didn't measure the gauge, can tell you that it is much lighter than original. I only paid about $160 fro it, so should have known it would have less quality. Holes look to be in the right position, but I haven't used it because I have since found an original windshield frame. I guess that's one advantage to taking forever to complete the build.

 

[mike472]

I just bought a cheapo aftermarket windshield frame, most holes seem to line up ok, but I am wondering is the glass bigger than the inside lip dimension of the frame, cause it is on this one and tho I have not replaced glass before this does not seem right to me oh yea bought off flea-bay

 

[CRETE4U]

I just bought one of those too. Haven't installed the glass yet, but it measures right, so I think it will fit. It is thinner and quality looked like . I did some welding and bondo work on it to make it look better. One thing I noticed was it was painted on the inside. Looks like it was dipped. Also Ebay.

 

[IOPort51]

how much did you pay on e-bay??

the one at Collins bros is $160 + shipping and it keeps looking better and better. the glass fit right and it was the proper gauge metal, painted inside and out. It is even reinforced between the wiper holes.

If you are having a problem getting all the hinge screws in, try putting them in with a different sequence. I know that sounds silly but it worked for me. Like put the one that didn't fit in first and don't tighten anything until all the screws are started. On the drivers side I redid it 3 or 4 times before they all fit with out drilling or forcing.

 

[mike472]

I paid 125.00 with free shipping, the screws on the front of the windshield for the hinges are floating so all those line up fine, I am just wondering, if I lay the glass on the frame it sits on the inner lip of the frame where the rubber moulding goes, but I dont have the rubber part on yet, is this correct?

 

[IOPort51]

I am pretty sure that the glass should fit inside the metal, If it won't drop through I would suspect that it is the wrong frame but I think I would call a glass shop to clarify.

I paid 125.00 with free shipping, the screws on the front of the windshield for the hinges are floating so all those line up fine, I am just wondering, if I lay the glass on the frame it sits on the inner lip of the frame where the rubber moulding goes, but I dont have the rubber part on yet, is this correct?

 

[mike472]

Yea, thats what I thought, Im holding off priming and painting until I know for sure, I can trim the lip if I need to but it would take a lot of trimming and I just need to be sure, guess I will take it to a shop to see if it can be put in this way,