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New body mounts?

New body mounts?

b3uhbp

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Location
Arlington, TX
Vehicle(s)
84 CJ7, 258, T5, Dana 300, Dana 30' AMC 20' Weber 32/36 carb, DUI HEI ignition, 2.5" suspension lift
I'm considering replacing the body mounts on my rig but not sure what the value is. What will be the impact and how hard is it? Thanks
 
Depends on how rust'd in the bolts are.
LG
 
Depends on how rust'd in the bolts are.
LG

Not much rust at all. I suspect the bolt will come out okay. What is the primary benefit? I'm replacing with OEM. No body lift.
 
Do not understand the purpose of the rubber tub mounts.
The mounting bolt passes completely through the single rubber disc.
Three rubber isolators would be required at each support location to isolate properly for vibration isolation.

Still have the original rubber mounts and now have the durometer hardness of metal.

Can find no reason to replace the rubber mounts.

Same goes for gasoline tank rubber isolators.
 
Rubber rots out over time.
Don't fix what ain't broke--
LG
 
Not much rust at all. I suspect the bolt will come out okay. What is the primary benefit? I'm replacing with OEM. No body lift.

I started this project today by checking to see if the bolts would break loose. They did but once loosened the bolts wobble. I thought the captured nuts were welded in. What am I missing?
 
They should slide around a bit. For adjusting the body. Similar to the grill mount. (which you shouldn't forget to replace.) The nut should move to the edge of the hole in the frame, no farther.

I used a wire "bottle" brush to clean out the threads on the captured nut.

Don't over torque the bolts. IIRC it is 24 ft pounds. Don't forget some anti seize.

Remember to cut down the steel centers on all but the two forward (large rubber mounts)

Did you loosen both sides? Both sides need to be loose so that when you lift one side the other has room to move.

If you look at the bottom of the tub next to the bolt hole, you will see a hole. On the frame body mount you will see a corresponding hole. IF you have a heavy duty phillips or a steel rod, you can put it through the 2 holes and move the tub around. The holes were to align the tub. You can move the tub around with one hand.
 
Not meaning to hijack the thread, but I need to replace my mounts as a few have split. I was looking at the polyurethane offerings, either stock height or 1" lift. Is there any reason why I wouldn't want to go with polyurethane or why the 1" added lift would be a bad idea? If I should post a new thread, say the word :chug:
 
Poly mounts are considerably harder. Some notice the difference some don't.

Lift mounts can pose other problems that need to be accounted for.

Fan shroud can be one. The body moves up, the fan doesn't .

Clutch bell crank can be another. Body moves up, Transmission does not.

Anything that is attached to the body that is also connected to the frame may need attention.
 
Poly mounts are considerably harder. Some notice the difference some don't.

Lift mounts can pose other problems that need to be accounted for.

Fan shroud can be one. The body moves up, the fan doesn't .

Clutch bell crank can be another. Body moves up, Transmission does not.

Anything that is attached to the body that is also connected to the frame may need attention.

Replace with stock height rubber mounts, or as LG would say, if it ain't broke, don't fix it. Got it! :D
 
Poly won't compress and deform like rubber mounts do. ;)
LG
 
Poly won't compress and deform like rubber mounts do. ;)
LG

So, are you saying that the rubber mounts are "broke"? :) I'm not sure I'd notice if the poly mounts were stiffer based on the condition of the existing mounts.
 
They have a much, much longer service life than rubber.
All my mounts and bushings are poly.
LG
 

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