No Heat....hmmmmm.

[NHMike]

1985 CJ7 , Inline 6

OK, I'm a total Noob when it comes to my Jeep. It has a few issues, but the most concerting issue is the lack of heat.

A couple of weeks ago I flushed the core, I got a little but of "crud" out of it, but otherwise it seemed to flow freely. I let her run for a bit, plenty long enough for the coolant to get hot. Both, input and output, hoses from the core were warm to the touch, so I assume fluid was flowing. But still no heat!? The fan blows VERY hard and all of the cables move what they need to move.

Before I just pull the darn thing out, are there any other ideas?? It seems a new Core isn't all that much, maybe $40 it seems. But if there's some kind of option I'm missing, maybe I could just spend that $40 on beer!

I did search, and I appologize if it's already been gone over. I coudn't find anything.

Also, while we're at it (and feel free to ignore this as it's not in the right category, but I figure, two birds/one stone), I need a new Stearing Box as mine is leaking. I've struck a great deal locally for a used one and figured I'd buy a rebuild kit for it. Is a rebuild on one of these a simple bench job? Are there any specialized tools needed? I'm fairly mechanical, but have mostly worked on Motorcycles.

Thanks again!!!

 

[7D8CJ]

I would replace the core provided all else checks out ok. Steering gear is pretty basic. Just seals , Here's a how to...
Remove the snap ring from the pitman arm side of the sector shaft. Remove the four bolts from the top cap over the sector shaft. Lift the sector shaft out of the case.
Remove the snap ring from the large cover on the opposite side of the worm gear or steering input stub. Use the pick to push in on the snap ring using the holes provided. Pull the cover off and pull the rack piston out of the bore. Be careful not to lose any of the ball bearings.
Remove the snap ring from the steering input stub. Remove the large nut, using a drift and a hammer. Remove the steering adjuster plug using the spanner wrench. Remove the rotary valve assembly and worm gear.
Pry the two seals out of the pitman side where the sector shaft exits. Remove the roller bearing. Clean all the parts and replace all the o-rings and seals.
Install the worm gear and o-ring to the rotary valve body and steering adjuster by aligning the two prongs with the recesses in the valve body. Pour a little power steering fluid on the seals and insert the whole unit back into the box. Tighten with the spanner wrench. Install the snap ring and the large outside nut.
Install the roller bearing into the top hole for the sector shaft and tap it down until it rests against the flange. Install the two seals and washers in the pitman side of the box, followed by the snap ring. Install the ball bearings to the rack piston, using grease to hold them in place for installation.
Install the rack piston into the worm bore, being careful not to loose any of the bearings. It helps to turn the input shaft to wind it in. Replace the large cover and o-ring followed by the snap ring. Install the worm gear by turning the input stub to move the rack piston into the middle of the bore and then inserting the worm gear. Install the four bolts and tighten.

 

[NHMike]

Thanks! I appreciate the response!

I would replace the core provided all else checks out ok. Steering gear is pretty basic. Just seals , Here's a how to...
Remove the snap ring from the pitman arm side of the sector shaft. Remove the four bolts from the top cap over the sector shaft. Lift the sector shaft out of the case.
Remove the snap ring from the large cover on the opposite side of the worm gear or steering input stub. Use the pick to push in on the snap ring using the holes provided. Pull the cover off and pull the rack piston out of the bore. Be careful not to lose any of the ball bearings.
Remove the snap ring from the steering input stub. Remove the large nut, using a drift and a hammer. Remove the steering adjuster plug using the spanner wrench. Remove the rotary valve assembly and worm gear.
Pry the two seals out of the pitman side where the sector shaft exits. Remove the roller bearing. Clean all the parts and replace all the o-rings and seals.
Install the worm gear and o-ring to the rotary valve body and steering adjuster by aligning the two prongs with the recesses in the valve body. Pour a little power steering fluid on the seals and insert the whole unit back into the box. Tighten with the spanner wrench. Install the snap ring and the large outside nut.
Install the roller bearing into the top hole for the sector shaft and tap it down until it rests against the flange. Install the two seals and washers in the pitman side of the box, followed by the snap ring. Install the ball bearings to the rack piston, using grease to hold them in place for installation.
Install the rack piston into the worm bore, being careful not to loose any of the bearings. It helps to turn the input shaft to wind it in. Replace the large cover and o-ring followed by the snap ring. Install the worm gear by turning the input stub to move the rack piston into the middle of the bore and then inserting the worm gear. Install the four bolts and tighten.

 

[ThisGuyUKnow]

While you are dropping the air box to replace the heater core I would recommend that you also replace the blower motor with one from a blazer, its fairly simple to do and moves a significantly larger amount of air.

 

[Old Dog]

If both hoses are warm there must be water flowing. My guess is that the cable is not opening the heat door.

 

[NHMike]

While you are dropping the air box to replace the heater core I would recommend that you also replace the blower motor with one from a blazer, its fairly simple to do and moves a significantly larger amount of air.

I had read people suggesting that. Should I replace it even if mine is blowing quite hard?

 

[NHMike]

If both hoses are warm there must be water flowing. My guess is that the cable is not opening the heat door.

I can see the cables and they seem to operate as they're supposed to. And I can feel "changes" in the way the air flows when they're moved.

I'm wondering if, when I DO pull the assembly out, if there's a core in there at all.

 

[ThisGuyUKnow]

I had read people suggesting that. Should I replace it even if mine is blowing quite hard?

Basically the blazer blower's low setting is the high setting on the current blower. Maybe if it ain't broke don't fix it but it makes a difference in the winter when you have the blazer set up.

 

[NHMike]

Basically the blazer blower's low setting is the high setting on the current blower. Maybe if it ain't broke don't fix it but it makes a difference in the winter when you have the blazer set up.

I hear that!! I'm feeling it tonight, 25 degrees and no heat!! And I'm discovering what many of you probably know, that these CJ's aren't all that "air tight"! Hahahaha I might as well not even have a door on with all the breeze that comes through it! Hahaha

Thanks for all the replies! I'll definitely be keeping folks updated on my findings.

 

[rr41mag]

Jeeps have heat?

 

[wm69]

Basically the blazer blower's low setting is the high setting on the current blower. Maybe if it ain't broke don't fix it but it makes a difference in the winter when you have the blazer set up.

Yep, go to Autozone, Siemens part number PM102. Lifetime warranty and mine was like $13 (was about 10 years ago).

Your defrost will actually work, and it puts out a LOT of air vs the stock CJ fan.

 

[NHMike]

Yep, go to Autozone, Siemens part number PM102. Lifetime warranty and mine was like $13 (was about 10 years ago).

Your defrost will actually work, and it puts out a LOT of air vs the stock CJ fan.

Thanks. I ordered a new Core today and will change it out over the weekend (My 4 year old daughter is quite excited about halping actually!). Hoping it does the trick, even a WEE bit of heat would be welcome.

 

[IOPort51]

I can't speak for your later model but my 77 requires that the vent be opened as well as pulling the heat cable. You may want to try variations of this.

If the air is not getting hot the larger fan will not make it hotter, in fact, it will be cooler, just more of it. The slower the air moves across the coil the more heat energy it will gain, just because it spends more time on the coil.

 

[danray48]

I can't speak for your later model but my 77 requires that the vent be opened as well as pulling the heat cable. You may want to try variations of this.

If the air is not getting hot the larger fan will not make it hotter, in fact, it will be cooler, just more of it. The slower the air moves across the coil the more heat energy it will gain, just because it spends more time on the coil.

That is a fact IO

 

[Tin Medic]

Going to leach on this one instead of a new thread. New core and blower motor. Both heater hoses are getting hot but no hot air. Pulled the bottom hose while running and there is just steam coming out of the water pump. Pump is only 2 months old. Any ideas?

 

[toddmonty]

Your heater core is prob air locked!! Jack up front of Jeep 18-20 & take radiator cap off, it should burp & let water into core. You'll have to add some more antifreeze after you get the air out !!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Tin Medic]

Even with the hose off the water pump and off the heater core. Shouldnt there be water coming out of the pump with the hose off?

 

[NHMike]

WTF?!?!?!

Ugh. I'm at my wits end.

Put on a new Water Pump, burped the system, STILL no heat.

I've come to the conclusion that it HAS to be the cable movement. I have a suspicion that the vent isn't closing and just sucking in cold air. I took some pictures butccan't seem to add them here. Behind the glove box, there is a connection that seems to control the heat/vent. TThere's the cable that goes to the off/heat/vent puller. It also appears that it should also move a rod that I assume, closes the vent and also, opens the air box door to allow air from inside the cabin to flow into the air box.

I have no interest in using the vent in the summer, II'll have the top off all the time. But I NEED heat now. Is there some way to block the vent off completely?

I'd really hate to pull the entire air box out. But will do what I gotta do if I need to.

Thanks gents.

 

[Hedgehog]

If you think it's not opening the doors, pull the glove box so you can see and move the levers by hand. No matter what since the water is flowing no matter how the doors are set the hoses should get hot to the touch.

 

[NHMike]

If you think it's not opening the doors, pull the glove box so you can see and move the levers by hand. No matter what since the water is flowing no matter how the doors are set the hoses should get hot to the touch.

There's hot water flowing. I pulled them off, while she was running, and it was flowing nice and strong. Did the top, THEN the bottom to ensure all was good.

I'm certain there's hot water getting into the Core (It's also brand new). I can move the levers by hand, however I'm still not getting a change.

I'm hoping someone might know if the rod I described is what opens and closes the outside Vent. It was VERY hard to move by hand, and when I pulled on it (Hard) it seemed to "break free", if you will. I'm not sure if something came disconnected on the end I can't see, but still, while trying multiple different "settings" with the levers, there's no change. Freezing cold air is blowing.