Nothing Over 50 MPH!

[tarry99]

This same thing has happened to me. >50 and it is so unstable. I was also told steering box could be the issue. However my steering box was recently rebuilt. I have about 90 deg of free turn on my steering wheel before it will turn.

Dab,

There is a good article on this site that takes you through the process of looking............

Keep in mind there are a host of things that could be wrong..........If you have replaced the steering gear then check it off the list...........start at the steering wheel and work your way down to the wheel bearings, helps when you have someone doing the moving of the wheel while your watching all the joints. It could be universal joints, tie rod ends, ball joints, frame & suspension flexing. Long shackles will also cause that due to flex.

 

[BusaDave9]

This same thing has happened to me. >50 and it is so unstable. I was also told steering box could be the issue. However my steering box was recently rebuilt. I have about 90 deg of free turn on my steering wheel before it will turn.

with that much free play it should be easy to find the problem but it will take 2 people. Have someone move the steering wheel back and forth while you watch the front wheels and steering components. If the pitman arm isn't moving then the problem is before that. Most likely the steering gear box but it could also be the steering column and the coupler where the steering column goes into the gearbox.
If your problem is bad shackle bushings or shackles it may be hard to see where the free play is. If you look closely you will see the front axle will actually move side to side slightly before the wheels turn.
Also look for slop in the tie rod ends.
If you can't see where the problem is start a new thread and we'll see if we can find a resolution.

 

[dabbrowne]

Thank you for the help. I will look into the cause. Here is a pic of my front end.

 

[tarry99]

Thank you for the help. I will look into the cause. Here is a pic of my front end.

Dab,

Can't tell much from the pictures but your shackles look too long............if the rubber bushings are also worn...........it takes a lot of movement to catch up to your steering............take some time with another person as I mentioned before and slowing move the wheel and take notice to everything that is moving downstream from the steering wheel.......... it will show up.

 

[dabbrowne]

How much should my frame flex by the steering box when I am parked and lightly turn the wheels?

 

[tarry99]

How much should my frame flex by the steering box when I am parked and lightly turn the wheels?

There will be some and it would be impossible for anyone to tell without being there.
That is why we install steering gear braces that run between the sector shaft housing and the opposite side frame rail.
If it is excessive it probably needs some attention.

 

[dabbrowne]

Hello Thank you for the tips. I was talking to a local mechanic and he said I need a new steering box and I need to get the braces. Do you have any recommendations on where to get this stuff?

 

[dabbrowne]

Hello Tarry99, thanks again. Is it difficult so go to a shorter shackle in the front and back and do I need to make other adjustments after shortening them? Right now I would gladly trade lower clearance for more stable steering.

 

[CJ]

Dab? Did you follow this guide exactly? http://www.jeep-cj.com/forums/f99/troubleshooting-correcting-your-steering-4106/

If not you are just chasing ghosts...

 

[dabbrowne]

Hello CJ

It is a great list. I have not gone through the entire thing, because I am still clearing space in my garage. My shackles are 3.75" bolt to bolt.

 

[tarry99]

Hello CJ

It is a great list. I have not gone through the entire thing, because I am still clearing space in my garage. My shackles are 3.75" bolt to bolt.

Dab,

You should go through each Item in your steering as mentioned before & you should also look over the article on this site.
You mentioned that the steering gear had just been rebuilt or replaced........and the mechanic you went to says it's bad.
Again go through each Item before you change anything.
I'm in San Ramon........send me a PM with your number and I'll try to help you out.

 

[dabbrowne]

I did check three things:
1) the Pitman arm will move up and down into the steering box - mechanic told me this means the thing is shot. - Maybe the guy that sold it to me did not tell me the truth about the new steering box.
2)Draglink to the pitman arm is a bit loose.
3)Frame is flexing where the steering box hooks up even with light pressure on the steering wheel.(can not see any cracks).

 

[dabbrowne]

Hello

I'm going to take off the Steering box and have it replaced. I confirmed that it is bad. Any tips for removal? The place where I'm getting the new box told me to leave the pitman arm attached.

Thx

 

[BusaDave9]

I'm going to take off the Steering box and have it replaced. I confirmed that it is bad. Any tips for removal? The place where I'm getting the new box told me to leave the pitman arm attached.

Thx

When you remove the drag link from the pitman arm don't use a pickle fork. They damage the boot. Instead use a puller. Here's what I use:

But this next one will also work:


You shouldn't have a problem reattaching the hydraulic lines. The fittings are different sizes so you can't get them mixed up.

 

[tarry99]

Hello

I'm going to take off the Steering box and have it replaced. I confirmed that it is bad. Any tips for removal? The place where I'm getting the new box told me to leave the pitman arm attached.

Thx

Jack it up and take the weight off the suspension and get the steering wheel and tires as close to straight ahead as possible...............you'll need a pickle fork to get the tie-rod end off the Pittman Arm in most cases.

That's fine they will I'm sure R/R the Pittman arm to the new gear box with a new nut. Make sure it is filled with lube.

Make sure the box is centered L/R before it goes back on. It should come that way............Replace the bolts if there worn at all on the frame. Probably need a 1/2" drive set or 1/2" air gun to get them off.

You may have to have your toe-in checked again.

 

[dabbrowne]

Thank you. It worked see the pic. Tomorrow I will get a new steering box. Any tips on how to get the thing zero'ed in when I install it? Looks like a puzzle to get all items aligned.

 

[mtnwhlr]

Thank you. It worked see the pic. Tomorrow I will get a new steering box. Any tips on how to get the thing zero'ed in when I install it? Looks like a puzzle to get all items aligned.

If I remember right when I did mine if you look closely at the splines it will only go on one way. You will have one spline that is wider than the rest so it is pretty much fool proof.

 

[BusaDave9]

Yes, exactly right.

 

[tarry99]

Thank you. It worked see the pic. Tomorrow I will get a new steering box. Any tips on how to get the thing zero'ed in when I install it? Looks like a puzzle to get all items aligned.

The Pittman arm only goes on 1 way and it looks like it was already on in your picture so you should be fine..............You should manually turn the input shaft on the new gear from full stop left to full stop right.......should be about 6.5 turns +/- then count back 1/2 that amount and that should be the center............some rebuilt boxes have a yellow paint mark on the input shaft and the case showing center.
Once the box is centered your Pittman arm should be facing towards the rear parallel to the frame.Without changing anything your drag link should hook right up to your Pittman Arm.
The reason you want the gear centered is so that you have the same amount of turns or travel in each direction.Once you box is at (Zero) centered you want to leave it there. Any adjustments beyond the steering box should be done at the tie-rod ends only for toe-in.

Check your steering wheel and see if it is in the straight ahead position. If not then you have a few choices to fix that but all should be done before the input shaft to the steering gear box on the splines.

There should be two universals that can be re-clocked to get your wheel straight or you can take the wheel off and move it on the steering spline.........it is much easier to do it at the Universals.

Check your toe in and also make sure you check your steering stops. There is an adjustable 9/16" bolt on the spindle to limit travel on both sides.

Hope that helps!

 

[DHugg]

I did check three things:
1) the Pitman arm will move up and down into the steering box - mechanic told me this means the thing is shot. - Maybe the guy that sold it to me did not tell me the truth about the new steering box.
2)Draglink to the pitman arm is a bit loose.
3)Frame is flexing where the steering box hooks up even with light pressure on the steering wheel.(can not see any cracks).

I have a later model ('80 CJ7 ) set up much the same as yours. The pitman arm is tight as <-BAD WORD->'s Hatband; likewise the drag link.

A Rugged Ridge Heavy Duty steering box bracket did much to reduce frame flex (I have 35's).

I have two mechanical steering issues remaining - a loose wiggle in the steering column and some tierod ends that are worn from round to oval.

My rig ran in rocks (scars to prove it), and the steering slop was an accumulation of time wear, stress, and neglect. To tighten up, I have to reverse all of these. Major gains were from AGR Super Box II steering box, Flaming River steering shaft, and the RR HD bracket. I haven't even gotten to rebuilding the front axle, but I expect important changes in steering stability when I do.

I had the same panic feelings the day I drove home from the purchase; I was all over the road, my side and the other lane. Hard work reaps reward - luck to you in getting control of the beast.