Oil spray at highway speeds
jasonmark1993
Old Time Jeeper
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- Location
- El Paso TX
- Vehicle(s)
- FJ cruiser (wifes ride)
2008 ZX10R,
73 CJ5, 408W, Toploader, Dana 20, 9" Dana 30 5.38 gears, next purchase=slicks
Crappy man; thats frustrating.
It probably is the VC gasket. Did you inspect the VC real good and make sure that it wasn't cracked? Here's another thing that can happen; I'm guessing this is a sheet metal valve cover. Sometimes when they are stuck on there, we all tend to use a screwdriver or something to pry them off. Even if you are "careful" and slowly tap along the gasket to separate the VC from the head, you can warp it a little. Here's something I would try. With a small hammer, lightly tap down on the outer edge of the valve cover. By outer edge Im talking about the ridge where the VC turns down towards the head on the outside of each bolt. You can go all the way around the valve cover tapping down. You can do it on the flat part that has the gasket under it or more out towards the edge. I've done this before and you can actually hear the difference when you get to an area where the bolt isn't pulling the valve cover down hard onto the gasket. You'll get a hollow sound/feel rather than a solid feel/sound.
Not trying to underestimate your abilities but make sure that you use a razor blade scraper and get a nice clean surface on the head. Use brake cleaner to get all the oil residue off. Same with the VC surface. Inspect both while cleaning for cracks, etc. I always use "ultra black rtv". I used to never use it and had lots of little seeps show up on a total engine rebuild. Now I put a very fine layer--like a coat of paint--on both sides of the gasket (or metal surface, whichever is easier).
Keep at it man, you'll get it.
If it is a sheet metal cover, I'd highly recommend tapping around the edge like I said. I've sealed VCs that way as it will straighten it out.
It probably is the VC gasket. Did you inspect the VC real good and make sure that it wasn't cracked? Here's another thing that can happen; I'm guessing this is a sheet metal valve cover. Sometimes when they are stuck on there, we all tend to use a screwdriver or something to pry them off. Even if you are "careful" and slowly tap along the gasket to separate the VC from the head, you can warp it a little. Here's something I would try. With a small hammer, lightly tap down on the outer edge of the valve cover. By outer edge Im talking about the ridge where the VC turns down towards the head on the outside of each bolt. You can go all the way around the valve cover tapping down. You can do it on the flat part that has the gasket under it or more out towards the edge. I've done this before and you can actually hear the difference when you get to an area where the bolt isn't pulling the valve cover down hard onto the gasket. You'll get a hollow sound/feel rather than a solid feel/sound.
Not trying to underestimate your abilities but make sure that you use a razor blade scraper and get a nice clean surface on the head. Use brake cleaner to get all the oil residue off. Same with the VC surface. Inspect both while cleaning for cracks, etc. I always use "ultra black rtv". I used to never use it and had lots of little seeps show up on a total engine rebuild. Now I put a very fine layer--like a coat of paint--on both sides of the gasket (or metal surface, whichever is easier).
Keep at it man, you'll get it.
If it is a sheet metal cover, I'd highly recommend tapping around the edge like I said. I've sealed VCs that way as it will straighten it out.

and picked up a cork gasket. Painted a thin layer of sealer on the VC and stuck the cork gasket to it. Bolted it down. Haven't had a drop of oil leak in two weeks now. Not too sure how that's possible, but, it worked! Just changed out the belts today as well seeing as I dumped about 17 gallons of antifreeze on them over that process and it sounded like a banshee from them squealing.