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Build Thread Operation Sky Blue Water Trip Build

Build Thread Operation Sky Blue Water Trip Build
Thank you. I'm pretty happy with it. It's nice KNOWING jet sizes, fuel psi's, timing, vacuum etc. No guesses etc.

I'm going to add a clear fuel filter in front of the regulator and behind the fuel pressure gauge so that I know for sure there's flow if I have an issue.


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he's in Canada right now on a fly in fishing trip with our youngest son, so he has no cell coverage.
This is something I have always wanted to do I'm very jealous. I would say I hope he ase a good time but that is a given.
 
Dropped my Jeep off at an old-school differential / Transmission shop to have my gears swapped out. Putting 3.54's in, should make a nice difference...:D

I'm also finishing up my manual choke conversion (from the old stove setup). Everything is done but I'm having trouble opening the choke. The brass fitting that came with the choke gets in a bind so I'll just put a small bolt/washer setup on there to hold it tight.

Once that's done I'm hooking up the fast idle to a manual switch and the compressor to a second switch. Second switch will run both, first only the idle.
 
Well I found out today that the rear end I dropped off to pull gears out of was a Trac-Lok, so a little bonus there. The clutches were marginal so I went ahead and had them replaced with new. The bad news was that my R&P for the Dana 30 I bought of Craigslist was super clean and in great shape, but was out of a high-pinion I assume. I had a buddy pick them up for $20 and he boxed them and shipped them to me and I put the box in the Jeep when I dropped it off, never saw them. Anyway, I can resell those so no real loss but some time. My Dana 30 carrier will take a 3.54 ring so it will work out.
 
Yep, your 30 breaks off at 3.54, bigger and you need a new carrier. I'm not so sure about the 20, that has a different break point. You will notice the difference between 2.72's and 3.54's, mostly in engine RPM's. You'll have to get used to the engine running at higher RPM's, probably because you'll be reaching for the shifter to grab another gear that won't be there. Around here 3.54's are considered to be a good all around gearing.
 
Yep, your 30 breaks off at 3.54, bigger and you need a new carrier. I'm not so sure about the 20, that has a different break point. You will notice the difference between 2.72's and 3.54's, mostly in engine RPM's. You'll have to get used to the engine running at higher RPM's, probably because you'll be reaching for the shifter to grab another gear that won't be there. Around here 3.54's are considered to be a good all around gearing.

I'm good to go on the 20, but I'm pretty sure 3.23 would fit, but 3.54 and bigger needs different carrier.

I used to have 4.10's and hated them. Ran 3000 RPM at 55mph. Put 2.72's in and put on 31's and with my GM Turbo 400 it's fine, but sluggish and low RPM's in the mountains even in 1st in low range. Mountain highways were impossible unless you stayed in 2nd.

These 3.54's with my 31's should solve all these issues.
 
I just recently regeared mine - the 20 carrier breaks at 2.73.... My axles had 2.73's so I had to replace both carriers. The two previous CJ's I had were both 2.73's, and I swore I'd never do it again. SW Virginia is very hilly, and neither Jeep would pull interstate hills without downshifting. I went with 3.73's and I'll be rolling 32's. I'm very anxious to drive a CJ without the anchor

I'd say you'll be happy with your combo!!

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007, I have the same setup you have except mine came with 3:54's in it. Back when I was driving it, I felt like it had enough get up and go on the highway and it also met my 4wd needs. Now it is a rolling chassis and a bucket of bolts waiting to be finished. I've since added the Transfer Case low range unit, so I believe I'll have the best of both worlds. My tire size is 32x11.5x15. Keep us informed, After the work is done take a test drive and let us know your results.
 
007, I have the same setup you have except mine came with 3:54's in it. Back when I was driving it, I felt like it had enough get up and go on the highway and it also met my 4wd needs. Now it is a rolling chassis and a bucket of bolts waiting to be finished. I've since added the Transfer Case low range unit, so I believe I'll have the best of both worlds. My tire size is 32x11.5x15. Keep us informed, After the work is done take a test drive and let us know your results.



Thanks for the feedback... Will do. I can't imagine not having that low range.

I may pick it up today but not sure yet. I'm working with the shop on them keeping my high pinion rp set for themselves in exchange for a little off the bill. All I could get in a hurry was a new Spicer rp set so that made it a bit more expensive than anticipated. But hey, the trac-lok is fresh with new clutches and the rest is new. It's done now.


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Well, did you gt it yet? What is your impression?
 
Well, did you gt it yet? What is your impression?



I stopped by and drove it and it's fantastic. Nice and smooth, no noise, turns good, etc. Obviously it has the affect of making the AMC 304 come alive a little more given the lightened load. I'm very pleased.


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I took my sway bar connects off and tied the bar up. I have the OEM HD spring packs so I don't think I need them and it will improve the ride off-road.
 
Added insulation to my fuel lines in he never ending effort to eliminate altitude vapor lock.

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No need for sway bar disconnects, I have plenty of spring.

Finished up some minor things today. Replaced all seats except drivers seat, had to order a new slider for it. Used stainless bolts and anti-seize so I never have to go through that again. Touched up some frame paint, rotated tires, checked fluids and installed my new console.


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We like the idea of insulating the fuel lines. Did you use something special or is that 1/2 in foam pipe insulation?
 
We like the idea of insulating the fuel lines. Did you use something special or is that 1/2 in foam pipe insulation?



I used the 1/2" foam pipe insulation. It was pliable enough to make the turns needed. I'm sure there's better products out there but not sure it would be kept much cooler no longer than the gas stays in the engine compartment. It was $3 worth of some assurance.


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Do you have a thick factory "cardboard" spacer or phenolic spacer? That would help reduce heat soak in the carb
 
Do you have a thick factory "cardboard" spacer or phenolic spacer? That would help reduce heat soak in the carb



It's the factory one, but my issue is along the fuel line that runs parallel to the exhaust.


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Time for my annual thread bump with the current/fluid list of to-do's for the year. I have a lot on tap this year, and have been stockpiling parts. This year I hope to get the following (in NO particular order) done:

  • MSD 6A ignition upgrade - all parts on-hand
  • Holley Sniper EFI kit
  • OME YJ Lift
  • Winch - most parts on-hand
  • On-board air - most parts on-hand
  • Re-paint / re-decal - most parts on hand
  • Repair spare tire carrier - all parts on hand
  • Install Transmission -Go shift kit
  • Carefully remove all OEM emissions equipment
I also have a 78 Cherokee S four-door that's coming on-board as a tow vehicle, so that will need a bit of TLC, but it will be secondary to any CJ work. Basic fluid changes, tune-up, extensive wash and detail, new shocks, wheels and tires and either paint or extensive Meguire's buffing ;-)
 

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