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Well first real test today. I towed my Jeep out to Colorado and when we got to Salida, we unhooked it and drove separately the rest of the way to Ouray. Over Monarch pass (11,300+ feet) and over a couple other passes along US 50 to Montrose.
The Jeep ran great. Warmed up to 191 at the hottest but usually hovered around 177. No vapor locking. No problems.
I am going to give it some more advance at cruise. Right now it's set to 36 and that's a touch too much at home. Probably needs 32ish. Here at altitude I will set it at 41 tomorrow and see how it goes.
84 CJ7 4 banger-owned since new in 1984 bought off truck at dealership - rebuilding 258, T176 with Sniper EFI D300 4:1 Lomax gears Twin Sticked 1 piece axels with locker
Long time...no post... Heck I haven't even washed it since Colorado. I drove my Jeep home (southern Indiana) from Colorado and had a decent time.
Anyway, there's been a lot going on but this weekend is garage cleanup and tool unpack for some work. Towing the Jeep to carwash to extensively clean the engine / bay. While it dries I'll clean garage, then push it in for more drying.
This spring's work is to do firmware updates on the Sniper as well as do some fine tuning on the Sniper using the computer software available from Holley. Having used it a lot now I see things I want to adjust. I also need to replace the O2 sensor (long story).
This spring's work is just that - springs! I'm doing a 4" YJ conversion lift and moving to 33's (Firestone Destination MT/2). I currently have the biggest spring packs available from the factory so the ride should improve (even with the lift) given that I'm going YJ up front. Worst case is that it stays the same and I gain improvement from the ability to air-down more with the 33's. No plans just yet of changing gears and doing Truetrac's as it will be cost prohibitive this year, but one year with 3.54's and 33's won't kill me.
I went with ProComp springs, Rocky-Road shocks and conversion kit, ProComp bushings, and a Rubicon Express TC lowering kit. I've not yet decided which shims and extended brake lines to get. The Rocky-Road shocks are valved specifically for Jeeps (due to less weight), not cars or half-ton trucks so they work much better with 4" springs. We shall see...
84 CJ7 4 banger-owned since new in 1984 bought off truck at dealership - rebuilding 258, T176 with Sniper EFI D300 4:1 Lomax gears Twin Sticked 1 piece axels with locker
I'll be sure to let you know. The changes you can make with the software are infinite. I'm just changing idle curve based on coolant temperature and the target air/fuel ratio (trying to thin it out a bit for a couple reasons). I'm also changing how the timing advances (when, how much).
I'm also adding some sort of venting system behind the front wheel well kinda like the new JL Wranglers have. Minimizes hood float at highway speed and gives hot air a place to go at low speed with high rpm's like we have on mountain trails in Colorado.
Lastly, I'm again going to take a stab at a cold air intake of some sort. Trying to minimize dust intake as much as possible, but more importantly pulling in air from somewhere other than the engine compartment.
I managed to get some runtime in with the new config and it's indeed better, but still running a bit rich, so I'm going to dial it back some more.
I'd be curious to know what other people are running for an air/fuel ratio. Stock Sniper was 12.5, I'm at 11 and will go back to 9 to for the next test.
I think this is why they came out with a 2bbl Sniper (aside from purists not wanting to change intakes - which I totally understand). I don't think I can flow enough air to make higher fuel numbers work.
84 CJ7 4 banger-owned since new in 1984 bought off truck at dealership - rebuilding 258, T176 with Sniper EFI D300 4:1 Lomax gears Twin Sticked 1 piece axels with locker
I managed to get some runtime in with the new config and it's indeed better, but still running a bit rich, so I'm going to dial it back some more.
I'd be curious to know what other people are running for an air/fuel ratio. Stock Sniper was 12.5, I'm at 11 and will go back to 9 to for the next test.
I think this is why they came out with a 2bbl Sniper (aside from purists not wanting to change intakes - which I totally understand). I don't think I can flow enough air to make higher fuel numbers work.
So are you using a laptop to adjust these settings or with the actual sniper module controls ? I can't remember. Guess I really need to go back and re-read.
So are you using a laptop to adjust these settings or with the actual sniper module controls ? I can't remember. Guess I really need to go back and re-read.
First, I was on crack when I thought changing my AFR to a lower number helped, going higher helped. My understanding of the number was in error. I went up .5 and it's better. Will adjust more later when I care more about it.
Secondly, I have a Spectre cold air intake setup I'm installing. It's the type for TBI's and has 2 ports and 4" hoses and clamps. I'm going to route the hoses to just below the hood line behind front wheels, then mount a mini hood scoop on both fenders. This will pull in air from outside the engine compartment completely. In doing some testing by blocking off one intake port and running a hose from the other down below the battery tray to below the tub I lost 6-19 degrees of intake air temperature depending on the situation, as measured by the Sniper. This will help engine cooling especially on mountain passes where air is thin and engine temps are hot. With this I'm installing an electric fan triggered by the Sniper for the same reasons. Here’s a pic of the housing and green lines where tubing will / must run.
Thirdly, I've decided to hold-off on my 4" YJ lift for the year (I think) and concentrate on re-gearing (again) and adding a locker up front. I have everything for the lift except the shocks and the YJ hangers and shims. For those of you who care / pay attention to these things, I have a QuadraTrac and there are many religious discussions on lockers with QT's. These discussions range from "it will go anywhere" to "it will kill you immediately". If you go to the IFSJA board (where you find A LOT of QuadraTrac owners there, the discussions tend to side with the "it will go anywhere" crowd. Move over to Pirate4x4 and it tends to be more of an “it will kill you immediately” crowd. So I called a couple of friends and they too differed in their opinions but neither were extremist. The last one (Posi) suggested I just contact Eaton and get their thoughts. So I did, then pinged someone else.
As a brief background for those of you not sure why this is an issue, the QT Transfer Case IS a Limited slip differential in and of itself. Think of the front axle as the left and the rear axle as the right. It’s designed to be AWD and like an LSD, it transfers power to the AXLE that needs it most. In most cases this works out just fine. But, when I go off-roading to any degree, I place the QT in what is called Emergency Drive, which simply “locks” the Transfer Case so that it operates like any other case in 4WD mode. From there you have high or low range as well. At this point the Jeep is just like any other Jeep in 4WD so long as its hubs are locked in. In this mode, using lockers of any sort is NO different with my case than any other, same advantages /drawbacks / considerations apply.
What makes my situation different is when the case is NOT in E-Drive mode and operating as a mid-chassis LSD, lockers can be an issue depending on the driving surface, speed, etc. as the TC will make power adjustment based on what it senses. Making turns on paved city streets are different with a locker up front since that axle is powered and turning just like the rear. So think about what effect a locker of any type would have on that. See the Filthy Motorsports video on lockers as well (it’s a Sticky in Drivetran forum).
So I called Eaton and it was shockingly easy to get to Truetrac tech support. The man I spoke to was somewhat familiar with my case and gave me a background on the Truetrac, how it worked and so forth. I was surprised to learn that the Truetrac came about with front axles in mind. That was the initial driving force behind its development. I also learned that a Truetrac never “completely” locks. By that they mean that even under the most extreme circumstances there is a nearly immeasurable amount of slip. This should concern no one, again it’s not noticeable by the driver. He said that I will “feel” the presence of the device up front, but it will not reduce drivability in any way, even with my case in LSD mode (normal).
After talking to him I watched the Filthy Motorsports video again, and it reemphasized my comfort and desire for these. When I was done I emailed Ben Brazda (the guy in the video) and he too said it would be a perfect setup for what I do. He recommends other lockers in front for more extreme off-roading, but they love the Truetrac for so many reasons and my situation is a perfect fit.
Lastly, I need to change my O2 sensor (long story) and do some work on my throttle linkage so I can get more than 70% throttle.
Finished my cold air I take today. I had already mounted the plenum and I routed my hoses. I had to remove my vacuum reservoir as it was in the way. I don’t think I need it anyway so I’ll keep it on the shelf for now.
After doing some measurements I took the nice 4” hole saw I bought and started in with the pilot hole.
I quickly realized that this was going to be WAY too much metal flying around for the garage so I waited until today to finish boring. The holes were perfect. I inserted and bolted in the duct flanges and attached the hoses inside.
Then I painted generic mini hood scoops from AutoZone and attached them.
I think it looks good and it has definitely show to reduce intake air temps.
I hope to start the electric fan install tomorrow.
