Wiring Orangey Electrical

[jeff_b]

Hi everybody, I respectfully request some feedback on Orangey the new-to-us 1970 CJ. With all due respect to the PO back in the day...the wiring looks like a deranged possum went on a bender in the 1980s and hacked an old-school glass fusebox in. Believe it or not, it supports a small block Chevy w/HEI, tilt power steering column, electric fan, and klaticky klack out back. The rig starts, runs and drives pretty good, but the electrical is hurtin' for certain. Does anyone recognize this fuse panel?

Additionally, any advice on rewire kits is appreciated. I've looked at the Painless kits, but I'm undecided on whether to rewire it like a CJ, or a Chevy pickup. Thanks, have a great day!

 

[TSB8C]

'75-'78 CJs used a fuse block with glass fuses. After '78, you got ATO fuses. Pre-'75, those early CJs didn't have fuse blocks in them. They used a few in-line fuses in certain places and a breaker on the headlight switch. So someone "hacked" in a fuse block from somewhere. You can get a generic harness with fuse block from Painless or EZ and wire it up. I do agree you should do something to improve what you have. Those blue crimp splices and various terminal ends are a recipe for issues and intermittent "gremlins" to trouble you. And what a pain for any future troubleshooting when you need to trace out a circuit.

 

[jeff_b]

'75-'78 CJs used a fuse block with glass fuses. After '78, you got ATO fuses. Pre-'75, those early CJs didn't have fuse blocks in them. They used a few in-line fuses in certain places and a breaker on the headlight switch. So someone "hacked" in a fuse block from somewhere. You can get a generic harness with fuse block from Painless or EZ and wire it up. I do agree you should do something to improve what you have. Those blue crimp splices and various terminal ends are a recipe for issues and intermittent "gremlins" to trouble you. And what a pain for any future troubleshooting when you need to trace out a circuit.

Your suggestion to rewire is duly noted. It's a hodge-podge under the hood too, and at some point, some PO added hood marker lights. I don't intend to add a bunch of high-current stuff, but would like to add capability for interior lighting, maybe USB ports and I'll definitely liven up that dashboard lighter.

 

[TSB8C]

With my rig, I have EFI now with an ECM, push button start, and numerous other electrical add-ons and changes. I actually pulled the stock harnesses (under hood, under dash, rear) to lay them on the dining room table and with a crimper and soldering iron made my own customized harnesses rather than buy from somewhere. Now I know every wire, color, and union front to back. And it was cheaper than new kits from EZ or Painless.

 

[jeff_b]

With my rig, I have EFI now with an ECM, push button start, and numerous other electrical add-ons and changes. I actually pulled the stock harnesses (under hood, under dash, rear) to lay them on the dining room table and with a crimper and soldering iron made my own customized harnesses rather than buy from somewhere. Now I know every wire, color, and union front to back. And it was cheaper than new kits from EZ or Painless.

Very interesting! Which fuse panel did you go with? Did you happen to make a wire run list I could pilfer?

With my rig, I have EFI now with an ECM, push button start, and numerous other electrical add-ons and changes. I actually pulled the stock harnesses (under hood, under dash, rear) to lay them on the dining room table and with a crimper and soldering iron made my own customized harnesses rather than buy from somewhere. Now I know every wire, color, and union front to back. And it was cheaper than new kits from EZ or Painless.

 

[TSB8C]

Mine is an '84, so I already had a fuse block with the ATO style fuses in it. I simply kept that, but removed and cleaned and soldered the connections. I also purchased some of the plug-in connectors to add additional circuits. You can check here for more info: Fuse Block Connectors

In terms of a wire run list, or schematic, I used the stock CJ wiring diagram, and then simply added the additional circuits I needed (dual battery, OBA, LED spots, power outlets, audio power amp, extra speakers, inverter, 7-pin trailer plug, map lights, towing mode, power for lockup torque converter, neutral safety switch on shifter, ECM, keyless ignition, heated seats, digital gauges, electronic speedo, etc).

eBay has some listings for NOS fuse blocks/harnesses for around $100: CJ Fuse Block Another CJ Fuse Block

To use an actual CJ fuse block, you would need the square hole in your firewall where the fuse block mounts under the dash and has the bulkhead connector that connects in the engine bay side. Not too hard to do, but you'd have to cut a hole to do it. Your other option as mentioned earlier is a generic wiring harness. You could get one on Amazon for $40-$50: Generic 12-circuit harness, or a bit fancier but still under $100: Another Amazon Harness

If it were me with an older CJ that had the style with the glass fuses, I'd replace it with one that uses the ATO fuses (I did that on a prior '77 I had). If I were in your shoes with an older one that had no fuse block at all, I'd get a CJ block with the ATO fuses and wire it up like a stock newer model. Plenty of wiring diagrams and help that way. Sure, add additional stuff as needed (lights, etc), but newer stock to use existing parts, diagrams, and other people's examples. To me, that would be worth $100 or so to get one. Lots of people have used Painless or EZ and paid $300 or more for brand new. Great if you can/want to spend that money. But if not, get a used one and work it over to meet your needs. You've already got a GM engine swap (that's what I have), and I assume different alternator and ignition setup with that GM engine. But easy changes to a stock CJ harness. Be a lot easier adding or servicing in the future with a CJ setup, even if it's from a newer model. Just my .02 - well .05 now since no more pennies and we're all rounding now.

 

[jeff_b]

Mine is an '84, so I already had a fuse block with the ATO style fuses in it. I simply kept that, but removed and cleaned and soldered the connections. I also purchased some of the plug-in connectors to add additional circuits. You can check here for more info: Fuse Block Connectors

In terms of a wire run list, or schematic, I used the stock CJ wiring diagram, and then simply added the additional circuits I needed (dual battery, OBA, LED spots, power outlets, audio power amp, extra speakers, inverter, 7-pin trailer plug, map lights, towing mode, power for lockup torque converter, neutral safety switch on shifter, ECM, keyless ignition, heated seats, digital gauges, electronic speedo, etc).

eBay has some listings for NOS fuse blocks/harnesses for around $100: CJ Fuse Block Another CJ Fuse Block

To use an actual CJ fuse block, you would need the square hole in your firewall where the fuse block mounts under the dash and has the bulkhead connector that connects in the engine bay side. Not too hard to do, but you'd have to cut a hole to do it. Your other option as mentioned earlier is a generic wiring harness. You could get one on Amazon for $40-$50: Generic 12-circuit harness, or a bit fancier but still under $100: Another Amazon Harness

If it were me with an older CJ that had the style with the glass fuses, I'd replace it with one that uses the ATO fuses (I did that on a prior '77 I had). If I were in your shoes with an older one that had no fuse block at all, I'd get a CJ block with the ATO fuses and wire it up like a stock newer model. Plenty of wiring diagrams and help that way. Sure, add additional stuff as needed (lights, etc), but newer stock to use existing parts, diagrams, and other people's examples. To me, that would be worth $100 or so to get one. Lots of people have used Painless or EZ and paid $300 or more for brand new. Great if you can/want to spend that money. But if not, get a used one and work it over to meet your needs. You've already got a GM engine swap (that's what I have), and I assume different alternator and ignition setup with that GM engine. But easy changes to a stock CJ harness. Be a lot easier adding or servicing in the future with a CJ setup, even if it's from a newer model. Just my .02 - well .05 now since no more pennies and we're all rounding now.

I'm glad I asked your advice! This rig has a very ugly hole chopped thru the firewall, and have a blank slate, but I like your idea of wiring Orangey like a newer CJ, your rationale is very sound.