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1979 Jeep CJ7 TH400 Automatic 258 I6 Quadratrac Amc 20 rear & Dana 30 front, 32 x 11.5 x 15 tires. Currently a Complete Custom Rebuild in progress.
Also I own a 2001 Jeep Cherokee, White, all stock with 4.0L. automatic, and police package. Best part of that is it came with leather seats! This package also has the NP242 Transfer Case, 8.25 rear end, and trailer towing package.
Most just pull out, by what ever method you can get it out. Then the new ones can be lightly tapped in. Got to the "docs" tab ont the main page, right next to the "forum" tab. In there you should be able to find a manual that will give a better explaination. Just be careful not to mar or scratch the axle tube. Rod
1979 Jeep CJ5 with 304 V8, T18 Transmission, Dana 20 Transfer case with TeraLow 3:1 gears, 4.88 axle gears, Detroit Locker up front and Ox Locker in back with 1 piece axle shafts, 36" SuperSwamper SX Tires, Shackle reversal, MileMarker Hydraulic winch, MSD 6A ignition.
This all depends on if you have a 1 piece axle or a 2 piece. Take off the rear wheel. If you have a big nut in the middle of the hub you have a OEM 2 piece axle like this:
Normally there is a plastic cover over that nut.
If you don't have a big nut there its a one piece axle.
Remove the rear wheel and brake.
If you still have the OEM 2 piece axle you need to remove the hub.
If you have a one piece axle you need to remove the axle plate behind the hub and remove the whole axle.
With the whole brake removed you can remove the axle retaining plate with the seal. It looks like this:
Heres a new seal.
Clean off the end of the axle tube.
If you do still have the OEM 2 piece axle it's a good time to think about getting a one piece axle. The 2 piece axle is the worst design on a CJ.
As I said if you have a one piece axle you need to remove the whole axle. The bearing along with the seal must be pressed onto the axle shaft like this:
EDIT: I just noticed you need the big brake backing plate in the above picture.