Rescued Grandfathers Scrapyard 79 CJ Rebuild - Steering/Suspension/Drivetrain

[PHFarm]

IT RUNS!!!! So lots of progress on the jeep. Got most of the body mocked up, but it runs! Sounds really good, 28-32 psi hot oil pressure. Fans kick on at 180 and 195 respectively. Idles a little high, but I think it needs to learn some. Holley sniper was super easy to get started. I need to verify and adjust timing a touch, I think it’s a tad retarded. I have the base timing in the sniper set at 15, but it runs!

So now the next thing, my fat <-BAD WORD-> is never going to fit in it without tilt. I’ve scoured the web and it looks like repop tilt columns are 8-1500 bucks, way out of my price range. I see lots of people say this column or that column, but I’m a little confused. I plan on converting to power steering, but that another story.

I can weld pretty much anything, so I’m not scared of having to modify a column, I’m just not sure which one to start with. I don’t have a steering shaft of gearbox so I’ll have to address that, but it looks that building a steering shaft with the various adapters available shouldn’t be too big of an issue. I plan on using a reman factory gearbox, and fabbing a ps pump bracket. The column seems like the reasonable place to start, if anyone has a post, I tried searching, about adapting a column and what was needed that would be super cool. Thanks again for all the help.

 

[PHFarm]

It rolls! Found a set of 15x10 wheels on facespace for 100 bucks. They are pretty dirty, but I should be able to clean them up. Took advantage of discount tires price match and ordered a set of 33x12.50s right at 200 a tire. The shop called me and said they would be about a week and asked me if I was interested in 35s I hadn’t really thought about it too much, but with the SOA I figured they would fit. He offered them to me for the same price as the 33s. I think it looks pretty good. They clear well and I think fill out the wheel wells better than 33s would.

Started working on the PS bracket, have a mock up that I don’t see why it won’t work, using three mounting points on the head. Cut in an adjustment slider and it seems pretty solid. The steering box gets here friday. Wound up finding a tilt column from an XJ that’s is almost the same dimensions as the stock non-tilt factory column. I’ll need to fab a steering shaft, but was going to have to do that anyways. Getting closer for sure.

 

[buzz54]

IT RUNS!!!! So lots of progress on the jeep. Got most of the body mocked up, but it runs! Sounds really good, 28-32 psi hot oil pressure. Fans kick on at 180 and 195 respectively. Idles a little high, but I think it needs to learn some. Holley sniper was super easy to get started. I need to verify and adjust timing a touch, I think it’s a tad retarded. I have the base timing in the sniper set at 15, but it runs!

So now the next thing, my fat <-BAD WORD-> is never going to fit in it without tilt. I’ve scoured the web and it looks like repop tilt columns are 8-1500 bucks, way out of my price range. I see lots of people say this column or that column, but I’m a little confused. I plan on converting to power steering, but that another story.

I can weld pretty much anything, so I’m not scared of having to modify a column, I’m just not sure which one to start with. I don’t have a steering shaft of gearbox so I’ll have to address that, but it looks that building a steering shaft with the various adapters available shouldn’t be too big of an issue. I plan on using a reman factory gearbox, and fabbing a ps pump bracket. The column seems like the reasonable place to start, if anyone has a post, I tried searching, about adapting a column and what was needed that would be super cool. Thanks again for all the help.

View attachment 106473

View attachment 106474

View attachment 106475

steering column from a S10 or S10 blazer and the GMC counter parts from the late 80s to early 90s will work. You just have to use a different steering shaft coupler to the steering column and a couple of changes on where it mounts inside the tub. The wiring is plug and play.

another thing to do for a big guy to fit in the CJ5 is to notch the front of the rear wheel well so you can move the seat back further. on YT there are a couple of videos from WFO that show a CJ5 with the notch to help you with ideas.

 

[Belizean]

steering column from a S10 or S10 blazer and the GMC counter parts from the late 80s to early 90s will work. You just have to use a different steering shaft coupler to the steering column and a couple of changes on where it mounts inside the tub. The wiring is plug and play.

another thing to do for a big guy to fit in the CJ5 is to notch the front of the rear wheel well so you can move the seat back further. on YT there are a couple of videos from WFO that show a CJ5 with the notch to help you with ideas.

There’s a thread right here all about doing it. Up at the top right is a magnifine glass. Do an advance search.

 

[PHFarm]

I thought about that, super easy to do it looks. I’m going to try and lower the seat bracket a bit, then find some seats that aren’t as fluffy. With the tilt column I got from the XJ it’s not horrible once I’m in it. If I still need more I’ll notch the wheel wells. Thanks for the input on the column, the XJ one is gonna work great I think. Waiting on the gearbox before I start measuring for the shaft fab up.

 

[Jeep Soup]

Just my Nickel.95
Large Diameter Tires require Stronger Axles, and Gears.
Also it will Surprisingly Change your Torque Curve, Road Speed,
And Final Gear Ratio to the Ground.
If I find it in my shop, I have a Tire Size to RPM formula. RPM will then give you a lot of Information as to where everything else lines up.
But if you are building a "Mall Crawler" ?????....... Little Worries other than your Speedometer will be Off.

 

[PHFarm]

Just my Nickel.95
Large Diameter Tires require Stronger Axles, and Gears.
Also it will Surprisingly Change your Torque Curve, Road Speed,
And Final Gear Ratio to the Ground.
If I find it in my shop, I have a Tire Size to RPM formula. RPM will then give you a lot of Information as to where everything else lines up.
But if you are building a "Mall Crawler" ?????....... Little Worries other than your Speedometer will be Off.

I’m mostly putting it back together. Most of any trails will be logging roads. I know the gears are pretty tall, but seeing as it’s mostly to drive around at 15-45mph. I’m not super worried in the interim. Chances are it’s going to get lower gears or new axles at some point in the future, just trying to get it back together and driving and sort out the things that need to be changed later.

 

[PHFarm]

Been a couple pretty busy days, pulled the rear axle to reweld the spring perches to correct the pinion angle. Mounted the rollbar and put in some stantions to delete the bar that goes down to the floor making the footwell area bigger. Not sure if I posted, but she got tires and some really cheap bookface find wheel. Getting pretty close now. Slave cylinder and a few other parts coming in the next couple days. It may possibly move under its own power in the next week or two for the first time in 24 years. Pretty cool.

 

[Jeep Soup]

MOST EXCELLENT !!
Love that you have a Capable
Shop and Talents !!
You are going to have a HOOT
Running "Grandpa's" old Jeep
On the BLM, Forestry Lanes, and
Trips to Town (Ya Gotta Show Off your Handiness!)
Just asking, was the Windscreen Roll Bar and Top Bars a Kit?

 

[Belizean]

Looks like a good shop made one to me.

 

[PHFarm]

MOST EXCELLENT !!
Love that you have a Capable
Shop and Talents !!
You are going to have a HOOT
Running "Grandpa's" old Jeep
On the BLM, Forestry Lanes, and
Trips to Town (Ya Gotta Show Off your Handiness!)
Just asking, was the Windscreen Roll Bar and Top Bars a Kit?

According to my father in law, it was a kit he bought and put in back in the late 90s. He referred to it as a sport bar kit. The cage was actually pretty bent, I didn’t take any pictures, but when I cut the down tubes to weld to the stantions I squared it up a bit with a little come along. The rear was fine but the front was about 3/4” out of square. It’s now about 1/4 out, but I’m probably the only one that will notice. The stantions were a kit from BroachWorx fabriication. It was a really well made affordable kit. I initially was going to fab up my own, but I don’t have a brake or a plasma table so I decided to buy one instead.

After I got done last night, I got to looking at the floor pans again, I think I’m going to replace them. They are pretty thin in a few spots with quite a few little pin holes. Mostly just on the flat not the slope. I was going to just get it going and deal with them later, but as the project goes on they are starting to be obvious. I’m not the best at bodywork, but I understand the concept and weld pretty decent. I did notch the rear fender about 4” because I can’t fit my long legs and beer belly in very well and kit came out pretty good. After the new pans are sealed and lined I think it will look better than it’s does now. Here’s a couple pics of the notch.

Today the clutch slave and last fitting come so realisticlly that’s the end of the major conversions. The driveline comes Monday and shocks who knows when, I have to send the first set I ordered back, too long, and then wait for new ones to get here, then it can make a little tootle around the property. I got all the steering stuff on the high steer fixed with new joints, the correct spacers and Saftey locks. Actually upgraded them to beefier forged joints and bigger 5/8 bolts and opposed to the 1/2” that were in there. Pretty freaking fun project so far. Looking forward to finishing it up hopefully next month and starting on my father in laws 78 CJ7 that’s sitting in my yard. Thanks for all the kind words!

 

[PHFarm]

So it got to see some sunshine yesterday, I got the hydraulic clutch working and wanted to burn the brake fluid off the headers outside. Fabbed up some grill supports this morning because I’m not paying 60 bucks for a couple pieces of round bar. Waiting on the rear driveline that’s supposed to come today. Who knows when the shocks are going to get here, but at least I can tootle around the yard without them. Working on the tailights and have an interesting little issue. With the column plugged in the park lights stay on. If I unplug the column they go out. It does this with both the MJ column and the factory CJ one, both columns turn signals are gritty and don’t quite click right so I’m thinking the switch in the column. I ordered one hoping that will fix it. Once the shocks get here if the shake down goes well, I can start on sanding and getting ready for paint. Setting a goal of May first to be pretty much “done”

 

[CJ]

Looking great!
Thanks for the updates!

 

[Belizean]

So it got to see some sunshine yesterday, I got the hydraulic clutch working and wanted to burn the brake fluid off the headers outside. Fabbed up some grill supports this morning because I’m not paying 60 bucks for a couple pieces of round bar. Waiting on the rear driveline that’s supposed to come today. Who knows when the shocks are going to get here, but at least I can tootle around the yard without them. Working on the tailights and have an interesting little issue. With the column plugged in the park lights stay on. If I unplug the column they go out. It does this with both the MJ column and the factory CJ one, both columns turn signals are gritty and don’t quite click right so I’m thinking the switch in the column. I ordered one hoping that will fix it. Once the shocks get here if the shake down goes well, I can start on sanding and getting ready for paint. Setting a goal of May first to be pretty much “done”

View attachment 106608

View attachment 106609

View attachment 106610

View attachment 106611

View attachment 106612

I’m using that same set up. What CMC are you using on top ?

 

[PHFarm]

I’m using a willwood compact 3/4 bore universal master. I measured it out and TIGd a Clevis pin into the stock CJ clutch. I get full throw on the master while being able to take up all the free play lowering the clutch pedal by probably 2”

In all fairness, I may have the wrong throw out bearing. I couldn’t get enough throw on the clutch with a 1/16” air gap with the 1 1/4” masters throw. I had to go about 1/16” past that. So there is a very small amount of pressure on the throwout. I know this will cause premature failure, but I really really didn’t want to pull the Transmission . When it fails I’ll get the proper one, or at least measure it and probably a 4 speed.

The pedal feel is healthy, not terrible, but you know it’s there. I get really good engagement and the master looks good under the hood because it has a big expensive brand name. The driveline came today and is installed, I haven’t driven it yet, probably Thursday, I’ll try to post a short video, but static testing the clutch feels quite good. Friction point is about 1” from full throw right where I wanted it with my 36” inseam.

The driveline is from tom woods, i was very impressed with the craftsmanship and packaging. It’s a double carden that measures 21” from yoke to yoke. My pinion angle turned out perfect, and I do mean bang on in line with the driveline.

Things are for sure coming together and getting very close. First shockless drive will probably be Thursday, we have a razor clam dig on the 21st and I’m really tempted, provided the shocks show up and the shake down cruise goes well, to flat tow the jeep down to the ocean. If anyone has a towbar design they’d share I’d much appreciate it.

 

[CJ]

I’m using a willwood compact 3/4 bore universal master. I measured it out and TIGd a Clevis pin into the stock CJ clutch. I get full throw on the master while being able to take up all the free play lowering the clutch pedal by probably 2”

In all fairness, I may have the wrong throw out bearing. I couldn’t get enough throw on the clutch with a 1/16” air gap with the 1 1/4” masters throw. I had to go about 1/16” past that. So there is a very small amount of pressure on the throwout. I know this will cause premature failure, but I really really didn’t want to pull the trans. When it fails I’ll get the proper one, or at least measure it and probably a 4 speed.

The pedal feel is healthy, not terrible, but you know it’s there. I get really good engagement and the master looks good under the hood because it has a big expensive brand name. The driveline came today and is installed, I haven’t driven it yet, probably Thursday, I’ll try to post a short video, but static testing the clutch feels quite good. Friction point is about 1” from full throw right where I wanted it with my 36” inseam.

The driveline is from tom woods, i was very impressed with the craftsmanship and packaging. It’s a double carden that measures 21” from yoke to yoke. My pinion angle turned out perfect, and I do mean bang on in line with the driveline.

Things are for sure coming together and getting very close. First shockless drive will probably be Thursday, we have a razor clam dig on the 21st and I’m really tempted, provided the shocks show up and the shake down cruise goes well, to flat tow the jeep down to the ocean. If anyone has a towbar design they’d share I’d much appreciate it.

Your definitely using quality hardware and making great progress.

 

[Belizean]

I bought that same Wilwood cmc a couple of months back also as a spare.

 

[PHFarm]

Under its own power for the first time in 25 years. Everything seemed really great, no weird noises. Clutch is fantastic, stiff, but very manageable. Had a bit of a leak on the proportioning valve so the brakes were trash but got that sorted. No shocks yet so she was a bit of a buggy. Snappy little small block, steering was buttery smooth. All in all very pleased!

 

[CJ]

Congratulations!

 

[PHFarm]

Got the new floor pans buzzed in and re lined the tub. Went ahead and lined the rollbar as well because I thought it would look cool. Lights are complete, not really my style but my lovely wife really liked them. They do look pretty cool lit up.

I started on the body work and got most of the rust off. The shocks should get here today and really wanted to take it for its maiden voyage, but didn’t want the bare metal so I did a good old rustoleum rebuild. It will be ensign blue when we paint it for real, probably early may when it’s drier out, but it is starting to really look like something.