Electrical Reverse Light Switch Question

[MJkid67]

This is my second post as I am working through some minor issues on the new to me 1985 CJ7.

I'm having trouble with getting the reverse lights working. I removed the reverse light switch from the driver's side of the T5 transmission and it did not pass the continuity test when I pressed the ball side of the switch in. So, I purchased a new one from Crown, tested it for continuity before I installed it, and after it was installed (about 2 weeks ago) and it had continuity.

So I had some time this past weekend and still couldn't get the reverse lights working. I backtracked and tested the new switch with the transmission in reverse and now I don't have continuity (between the two posts). I tried loosening it a little and then tightening it a bit more than it was with no luck. I then took it out and it tests fine outside of the truck.

I'm stumped! Any ideas or tricks?

Thanks

 

[TSB8C]

It does seem you may have excessive wear on the shift rail if the switch is inserted as far as possible (no washers or shims) and the rail is still not pressing the ball/plunger enough to activate it. Proper fix is to replace/adjust the rail inside the tranny. Work-around as you suggested is look for another switch that is a slight bit taller and could screw in further. In terms of another switch that is longer, I do not know the specific dimensions of this switch. So hard to search for another that would be the same diameter and threads, but slightly taller. The WVE #1S5283 looks close. I don't know if the threads are the same, and you'd have to replace the pigtail connector, but the GM #14069600 might alo be another option.

Another potential option is to file or ground down a bit off the face of the "nut" part of the switch on the side where it screws in. Then it could screw in further before bottoming out.

Cut or grind away this part so it screws in further. Since you're not torquing this thing to some high amount, you just need to leave enough for a box wrench or 6-point socket to grab it. Maybe you could pick up the additional 1/8th inch you need.

 

[MJkid67]

Update (for those that care):

I cut down the face of the nut, but that was such an imperfect process that it weakened the extended shaft and it snapped off while I was carefully tightening it. Not sure if it's possible to do this successfully with a dremel tool.

So I found a Ford/Volvo switch that has a longer shaft (not sure about the thread diameter) on eBay. It was only $9.95, so it's worth a shot.

And, today, I found an OEM switch NOS (still in sealed factory bag) on eBay. I'm hoping that the Crown switch is not made to the same spec as OEM. I know that the Crown pinion seal is not the same size as OEM.