Roll cage and hards doors binding

[Vipasa2015]

Hey guys,
I have a full roll cage in my CJ7 .
Last year I added a pair of hard doors. They fit/line up fine except for that the upper corners of the doors bind against the upper most forward point on the roll cage, just behind the windshield. The doors still close and are functional. However, there is about a half an inch gap where the edge of the door meets the tub created by the binding against the roll cage. The two small spots on the roll cage where the doors are binding would only need to be pushed in an inch and maybe as wide as two inches across. Is there a tool that I could rent to bend/push in that small spot? Should I have it heated and molded in? I’m guessing I’m not the only one who has had this problem so I was wondering if anyone had any suggestions to help me remedy this problem.
I have no experience with welding or metalworking. So any advice would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

Re: Sport Bar / Roll Cage Material

The tool is called a HAMMER.
Can you post pictures of your front RB loop.
I have cut the center out of the front loop and removed materiel(made an inch at most). Then 'drew' the 2 pieces together and with an internal 'sleeve' in the tubing, rewelded the RB.
LG

 

[Vipasa2015]

Ha! Ya know, I actually tapped on it a bit with a hammer to see if it MIGHT be possible. LOL! Here are a couple of pics. You can see on the pass side there is a more rubbing than the driver's side. Thank you for response. Great appreciated!

 

[Torxhead]

Thanks for sending in that pic. It does look like maybe a combination of things like Lumpy's bfh, some metal bending, and you might even find some give on the doors also. On my cage, once in a while I bang my head on the spreader bar as I didn't set it out far enough. Good luck with what you come up with.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

It was a case just as this that I did the section removal deal I spoke of in my other post.
The hammer deal on cold steel will look to 'bubba' IMO.
If you do go with the hammer method. I would use a #10 tip on a oxy-acetylene torch and get that area cherry red. Much easier to reshape then.
Good luck,
LG

 

[Vipasa2015]

Thanks guys for the info guys!
I found someone located close by that could heat those spots and mold/push them in for around 40-50 bucks.
Since I don't have experience welding and am on a budget I'm thinking that might be the way to go. If I repaint those sections I'm hoping it won't look to "bubba". LOL! I'm hoping to get it taken care if in the next week or so. I'll definitely update the pics once it's done.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

Hint-Remove the paint from about 12-14'' from each side of where the heat will be applied. Easier to do BEFORE the torch is used, than after.
Good luck,
LG