Rollbar repair 85 CJ7

[Helomedic1171]

So the mounting points on the wheel tubs for the rollbar rusted through and were then cut out by the PO. Also, the bolts that hold the forward rollbar mounts in rusted so bad that the PO cut the bolt heads off to remove the rollbar. Is there any reason I can't or shouldn't weld the rollbar in place?

My Dad's idea.... I don't want to because that's not how it was installed at AMC years ago, and i figure it was like that for a reason. But then, maybe I'm full o'sheet.

Any input would be great.

 

[Only in a Jeep CJ]

Well, a couple of thoughts on that. For example the mounts behind the front seats: With bolts, they go through the roll bar plate, through the floor sheet metal, through the support channel, and to a bottom nut/plate combo. All of that is way stronger that welding a thick rollbar plate to the floors thin sheet metal. Welds can crack and the sheet metal can tear. Yes, the bolts can stretch, but the 4 bolts will still be better than stitch welding to sheet metal.
For the rear, you need to replace the bottom plate or the bar can punch through the sheet metal. Its your safety and life.....and maybe your passengers too....do it safe, do it right. There's a reason its not welding in...

 

[Helomedic1171]

Its your safety and life.....and maybe your passengers too....do it safe, do it right. There's a reason its not welding in...

and that's why I'm asking. My Dad is all "just weld it in" vs my point of view is that it wasn't bolted in for a reason, and now I know why. thanks! I'll make sure we repair the rollbar mounts and bolt it in.

Thanks again!

 

[PaRenegade]

Keep in mind that the factory "roll bar" is actually a "sport bar" that is more for looks than protection. So even at it's factory state it's protection is Limited . But with a "lesser" connection the protection is also lessened.
Those plates are to spread out the force that a roll/sport bar could transfer. Simply welding it to sheetmetal it can punch right thru the thin material. In the factory state it's also got a dbl. layer of sheetmetal and a 90 degree sheet under that (the wheel well baffle and the outer support).
So it comes down to what your greatest concern is, looks or safety.

 

[Helomedic1171]

safety. safety looks good to me, so safety is #1. that was my concern with welding it in, though I couldn't articulate or pinpoint what was unsafe about just welding it in. now I know. thanks guys.

what thickness of plate should I use to repair/fabricate new pads? I can then transfer the bolt holes from what's left of the original pads.

 

[Only in a Jeep CJ]

at least 3/16 or thicker. Make sure the tub is repaired right and there is a bottom channel and welded in nuts like originally. As said, its not like a real cage that is tied into the frame, but at least get it back up to stock specs. At least the B pillar feet sit above a body mount rigger on the frame.
Find someone in your area with a good CJ or YJ to look at and take measurements and pics

 

[Helomedic1171]

cool. I just ordered about $900 worth of panels from Lamonte at Classic Enterprises. we got some sheet metal stuff from them for one of our M38A1s that needed a wheel tub. I'm going to go do some wandering next week I think and go get measurements and photos, and if possible, maybe even some sheet metal/plate.

 

[Hedgehog]

Yep, give it a decent foot to stand on, then bolt her down.

 

[Dan86CJ7]

Any pics of what you did? or could you link me to anything with pics of your repair. Im about to yank my tub vs selling and try to fix it up and Im rotted in the same spot and int he rear riser and all floors

I keep searching and googling but nothings pics remain. or nothing of the areas I have concerns in.