• Hello Guest, we are proud to now have our Wiki online that is completely compiled and written by our members. Feel free to browse our Jeep-CJ Wiki or click on any orange keyword when looking at posts in the forum.

RUST PREVENTION for Jeepers

RUST PREVENTION for Jeepers

DHugg

Senior Jeeper
Posts
915
Media
46
Resources
1
Thanks
2
Location
MS Gulf Coast
Vehicle(s)
'80 CJ7 304AMC crate with 8KMiles: MC2100 - AMC20 rear w/Superiors - Dana30 front - TF999 - Dana300TC - 35x12.5's - Tilt steer column - Flaming Rvr EZ-Steer Shaft - AGR Super Pump - AGR Super Box II - RockyRidge HD Brace - New home-designed digital TEMP - GAS - OILPR - CALIBRATE gauges.
The muskrat trap you see below was treated 45 years ago with an industrial-strength liquid rust inhibitor. My father gave me a gallon of the poison-green, clear foul-smelling stuff from a 55Gal plastic drum he kept in his shop. I had to leave the gallon jug behind on one of 15 military moves, and I could never locate the product or manufacturer again, even with my father's help.

Trap2.webp
 
Now I have a 1980 CJ7 , and altho not badly rusted, I cannot see putting parts back together W/O protecting the surfaces in some way. After several bad-outcome trials of different products, someone on the CJ FORUM mentioned OSPHO.

OSPHO.webp
 
Have you tried Monstaliner Chassis Saver ?
 
That looks like gun blue! I know what your talking about but i think the stuff was phased out because it was so hazardous.
 
So here are a couple of pictures from the spring leaf removal off the PROCOMP lift springs I have on the rear axle. I found the OSPHO in stock at a local (Gulfport, MS) Sherwin-Williams paint outlet. It looks the same clear poison-green, and smells the same, as the stuff my dad gave me. It bubbles whenever any ferrous metal is placed in the OSPHO. The parts treated take on a gunmetal gray (if shiny steel surface) or a powdery black if covered in thin rust. Instructions require the treated part to dry over-night. I discovered that thin coat brush-on works, or dipping for 30 seconds and drain before setting to dry. If the treated parts aren't drained, the stuff drys to a consistency much like the sugar on a plain donut.

One final note: OSPHO treatment appears to greatly increase the adhesion of paint on treated metal surfaces. Even the U-bolt nuts retained their (calipre-paint) covering after being ratcheted up an inch and a half then torque-wrenched tight. Before this, I would lose paint like stenographers lose finger-nail polish during ratcheting.

Try this stuff for yourself. I got no dog in this fight.

Ubolts-dirty-wirebrushed-OSPHOtreated.webp

Nutz.webp

PartsPainted.webp

SpringLeavesPainted.webp
 
That looks like gun blue! I know what your talking about but i think the stuff was phased out because it was so hazardous.

Bought the bottle pictured a week ago at our local store.
 
Hugg, I lived in Biloxi for 40 years. I guess homedepot would have that stuff right? Remember when you bought a cast net it would be dipped in some green stuff?
 
Ospho is basically the same principal as POR15. It is a rust convertor/encapsulator; but a better convertor. It will clean the metal with the phosphoric acid and convert what iron oxide it does not clean off to iron sulfide. This is the black coating that you get with some rust convertors.

Good stuff to use. It does perform as advertised. Some industrial painters use this to clean before applying paint. (We used it to prepare the surface of a trailer we built in HS Ag for the Houston livestock show Ag Mech show.). It does promote adhesion due to the fact that the metal is VERY clean. :chug:
 
My dream home would have a big live oak in the front yard, from which every spring I could hang my shiny green mesh shrimp trawl to dry.

Unfortunately, when you marry The Queen of the Prom, there are some consequences. I can't even hang the fresh-dipped trawl off the live oak in the back yard! But it is worth it.
 
I believe ospho is more of an etching solution than a paint. Similar to Kleer's Prep-n-Etch or POR's Metal Ready, but less zinc and more of something that turns it black like the rust converters that you can get in rattle cans. It still needs to be then coated with a paint product of some type.
Correct me if I'm wrong.
 
I believe ospho is more of an etching solution than a paint. Similar to Kleer's Prep-n-Etch or POR's Metal Ready, but less zinc and more of something that turns it black like the rust converters that you can get in rattle cans. It still needs to be then coated with a paint product of some type.
Correct me if I'm wrong.

:agree:Still needs paint.
 

Similar threads

  • Question<br> <font color=black> Reply's are voted<br> on for best answer</font> Question
    Reply's are voted
    on for best answer
Replies
1
Views
45
  • Question<br> <font color=black> Reply's are voted<br> on for best answer</font> Question
    Reply's are voted
    on for best answer
Replies
8
Views
95

Jeep-CJ Donation Drive

Help support Jeep-CJ.com by making a contribution.

Help support Jeep-CJ.com by making a contribution.
Goal
$200.00
Earned
$25.00
This donation drive ends in
0 hours, 0 minutes, 0 seconds
  12.5%
Back
Top Bottom