Scout Dana 44 prep for a CJ with Pics.

[Kane]

This thread is an explanation on what is needed to be done in order to prep the Scout II Dana 44 front axle for using in a Jeep CJ. This is getting installed in my 1984 CJ8 . This does NOT include the required out-boarding of the spring but remember it has to be done as well. If you were planning on doing this type of job you must be pretty proficient at two things. One would be welding and the other is to have a basic understanding if steering geometry. Now there are some good articles on the web about this so I am not going to write about it here but the main purpose of all this work is to correct two issues in this axle. The first is the steering caster which is at a dead 0 degrees. This is fine for a bias ply tired vehicle but not a CJ running radial tires. The CJ is happy with 5-7 degrees in order to keep the wheels centered at speed. The second issue is the center section (differential) points practically at the ground which does not help when the CJ is lifted. So this little write up and the pictures will give a little more insight into what is needed for these fixes. Do I think it is worth it? Well if you do not want to shorten tubes and install custom cut axles then yes, for me it is worth it.

With the axle disassembled the first order of business is to cut off the inner C’s. You need a good angle grinder with a cut off wheel and grinding wheel. Grind the welds around the inner C’s as close as you can to tube and then switch to the cut off wheel and cut at a slight angle inward toward the C. Be careful because you do not want to hack into the tube to much but remember that you can just fill the cut back up with welding rod anyway. Once you have cut far enough into the welds then get a big damn hammer (I used a sledge with a 4 foot handle) and smash the hell out of it on both top and bottom until you see a crack form at the weld joint. If you do not then cut some more and smash some more until you do. It will take upwards of two hours to get these suckers off.

Here is the axle ready for cutting.





Some pictures of the Inner C’s cut off.

 

[Kane]

Now for the first angle change. The Differential needs to be rotated up. I placed the Stock Dana 30 and Scout Dana 44 on a set of leveled 2x4’s so I can match the angles. As you can see in the pic below the dif of the Dana 44 needs a good kick up. The 30 is angled up at 8 degrees on a level surface which equals about 6 degrees on the CJ since the springs are angled down 3 degrees. Since the passenger side perch is cast into the dif you now need to get out the trusty angle grinder and get busy. The most you can cut off the front edge is ¼ inch with the back edge not getting touched. Be smooth and make sure you grind slowly while keeping the perch flat. This will allow you to get a nice 5-6 degree angle up when it is mounted on the CJ. Close enough.






The picture showing the new angle of the pumpkin.



The protractor angle on the Dif.

 

[Kane]

Now for installing the Inner C’s. I ran a tube in the Dana 30 ball joint holes and then got my angle with the protractor. I just installed the inner C’s on the 44 to match the 30 plus 1 degree. The 30 had 5 degrees and I wanted 6 since I will have the Jeep lifted and do not want shims on the springs. On the level 2x4’s it will show 8 degrees. The easiest way in a garage which is still not easy is to heat up the C’s with a torch and then hit them on with the lovely sledge you used before. If you have access to a nice big press them it will make life easier for sure.



Here is the angle shots and with the tube and protractor.

 

[Kane]

Now for some welding. Like I said you should be a decent welder and not afraid. This is rocket science and the Inner C is just nodular iron so it welds up nice and easy with a MIG or in my case an ARC welder with some 7018 rod. I ran three full passes for strength. The first pass I stitched it top, bottom and sides to keep the C’s square and I checked to make sure after each weld. Once the first pass was finished then I went to town and layed on the final two passes. All said and done it is a good solid weld and held the set angle just fine.




Stitch weld and take your time.




First pass complete.



All done.





Final product ready for gears.



This job was very worth it for me. I hope this explains a little better on what is really needed to make these axles proper for a Jeep CJ. It mainly takes time and a lack of fear. Cut the thing up and put it back together. You ruin it, so what. At least you tried. That’s the only way to succeed.

 

[tarry99]

Kane, Good job & Nice writeup..........I am assuming you also cut off the opposite side spring hanger and repositioned it?..............and the only other thing I would have done would be to preheat the C's and tube........... just good practice to eliminate any cracks forming between the dissimilar metals while welding.
What is that Scout Wheel surface to Wheel surface width?

 

[Kane]

Yeah I didn't mention the other perch but yes it just needs to be cut off and welded after the other side is ground down. I don't remember the wheel width off the top of my head but it was around three inches wider than a wide track CJ axle.

 

[73CJ]

Excellent post! Thanks

 

[coldair]

What rear axle are you going to run with this Kane?

 

[alpha6]

Thanks, very informative and thought out post. Pics really helped drive home the points. Great welds! Very clean.

 

[Kane]

I have a matching Dana 44 for the rear also from a scout II. They both have 3.73 gears. I plan to use the Dana 30 outer assembly for the front end and stick with the bigger drums from the 44 for the rear. I am only runner 33 inch tires so these will be plenty of axle even with my V8.