Second attempt at starting 360

[Germy]

Tried new pcv to no avail. I think due to time and resources, I'm going to let a mechanic look at it. Just doesn't make any sense

 

[Germy]

Put it on a flatbed to the shop, he's an amc guy, so he knows his way around them. Hope it's not bad and just an overlook.


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[Germy]

Mechanic called. As suspected its a major vacuum leak from intake. He said that there is an original valley pan that must be used. I dont know if in conjuction with a secondary felpro or just a thicker factory gasket. He said its about 1/16 all around. Im having him get the correct parts and im putting them on. He just charge 75 for diagnosing. He said it is sated in edelbrocks instructions.

 

[Germy]

Here is what they say



Installation Notes: Recommended intake gasket: Edelbrock #7213 or Fel-Pro #MS96011. #2131/#21311 must use factory metal valley tray gasket. Manifolds have two center bolt holes offset. Manifold height: A-4.20", B-5.50" see A/B Measurements. Port exit dimensions: 1.03" x 2.07". Bracket #8034 required for 1979 and later vehicles.

 

[Germy]

Update. The intake bolts were bottoming. Out not crushing the gasket. The other issue is that the mix screws on my eddy carb are full lean, they really do nothing. Possible that the backfires messed it up?


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[Old Dog]

I doubt that the backfire messed them up but you never know.
I would have never thought the bolts would be bottoming out and be the whole problem.
Does this mean it's running now?

 

[Germy]

Running great at idle, but when its pushing 35's on 3.07 it bogs. I have to drive it at a higher rpm. With the carb, he said the choke wasnt moving either. What would cause a carb to not affect the idle when screws are turned?

 

[Scooter402]

The idle screws and the choke are two different circuits of the carb. What the choke does is restricts the air flow into the carburetor and intake, allowing more fuel to mix with the air, richening the fuel mixture so that it runs better when cold. Typically, it will tend to bog down and want to die after warmed up if the choke plate does not open after the engine reaches a certain temperature.

Was this a new carb, or rebuilt? Has it been sitting for a while? What size is it? It could have gunk in the idle feed restrictors, not allowing idle fuel adjustments to be made. It's been about a decade since I've built/tuned an Edelbrock carb, but I can try to help.

Does your choke plate open at all? or is it staying closed? What style is it (electric, mechanical)?

 

[Germy]

It is a new 600 cfm electric choke. I will have it home in the morning. I will update then. Thanks for the response!


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[jdarg]

Running great at idle, but when its pushing 35's on 3.07 it bogs.

You are gonna have issues trying to push 35's w/ 3.07 gears. You will probably want 4.10 or 4.56. It shouldn't bog, that's a tuning issue, but realize it won't be a speed demon by any stretch.

 

[jasonmark1993]

Running great at idle, but when its pushing 35's on 3.07 it bogs. I have to drive it at a higher rpm. With the carb, he said the choke wasnt moving either. What would cause a carb to not affect the idle when screws are turned?

You probably have the idle set so high that the butterflies are open and you are idling on the main jets; just what Ive seen happen. I'm no carb expert.

Try opening up the idle screws a bit and see what happens.

Do the rpms go up? Use the idle screw to adjust your idle correctly.

The proper way to adjust the mixture screws is with a vacuum gauge. Aiming for the highest idle will work too.