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Sniper tuning question

Sniper tuning question

j6824

Senior Jeeper
Posts
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Location
Central Virginia
Vehicle(s)
'78 CJ5, 258, D30, AMC 20, 3.54, T150, 33s, Sniper EFI, 4"BDS, 1" M.O.R.E. body, Team Rush, MDS 6A, BDO tie rod flip, Adams shafts, Speedhut gauges, 8274
Having a bit of an issue with restart at NOT. Believe it's getting too much fuel and flooding at/above 160 degrees.

Did a little research and wanted to get some feedback from those who may have experienced this before I start monkeying with the settings.

Under the Startup Enrichment window, there's the cranking fuel graph with the percentage at NOT...wondering if that's the place to start? Saw a suggestion for this value at around 4 lb/hr above 160 degrees.

Thoughts?
 
If you haven't already, you may want to post on Holley's discussion boards...you'll probably have more luck there. Lots of folks over there that are super smart on troubleshooting. Be ready to post your fuel map and whatever else you can pull out of it.

I think efisystempro.com has their own forum as well. The fella that owns it is a Holley EFI superstar.

Sent via Google translate using braille through Tapatalk
 
Let us know what you come up with. My sniper install is hopefully in the near future also.
 
Let us know what you come up with. My sniper install is hopefully in the near future also.

Will do

It’s been great so far...smooth as silk. Cold start is like a whole different rig altogether

Runs quieter and, much to my surprise, a lot cooler...for whatever reason

Just this tough start deal when it’s warm...I’m sure it’s a tweak...just have to experiment with it, I guess
 
Will do

It’s been great so far...smooth as silk. Cold start is like a whole different rig altogether

Runs quieter and, much to my surprise, a lot cooler...for whatever reason

Just this tough start deal when it’s warm...I’m sure it’s a tweak...just have to experiment with it, I guess

Yeah I know I'm looking forward to the EFI world with mine.
 
Having a bit of an issue with restart at NOT. Believe it's getting too much fuel and flooding at/above 160 degrees.

Did a little research and wanted to get some feedback from those who may have experienced this before I start monkeying with the settings.

Under the Startup Enrichment window, there's the cranking fuel graph with the percentage at NOT...wondering if that's the place to start? Saw a suggestion for this value at around 4 lb/hr above 160 degrees.

Thoughts?

From my experience, they don't get quite enough. I was at 4 and went to 5 and it started much better when hot.
 
From my experience, they don't get quite enough. I was at 4 and went to 5 and it started much better when hot.

Appreciate the reply

Still fiddling with it. I'd swear if I didn't know better that the settings are changing on their own somehow.

The default was originally 11 lb/hr cold, rechecked settings yesterday and I swear it showed 21...and I never touched anything below 160 degrees on the graph

I may need to set everything back to default and start all over
 
I'll PM you my email address, you can send me a config file if you wish and I can look at it.
 
Having a bit of an issue with restart at NOT. Believe it's getting too much fuel and flooding at/above 160 degrees.

Did a little research and wanted to get some feedback from those who may have experienced this before I start monkeying with the settings.

Under the Startup Enrichment window, there's the cranking fuel graph with the percentage at NOT...wondering if that's the place to start? Saw a suggestion for this value at around 4 lb/hr above 160 degrees.

Thoughts?

Just wondering,
Have you WATCHED the key 'ON'/start up fuel shot when the engine is cold?
Then again when it's warm?

More or less fuel between cold & warm & hot?
Since the throttle blades are closed, the fuel is not going to hit the intake manifold in spray, it's going to run off the throttle blades as liquid into the intake/runners/cylinders, so the start fuel shot is pretty critical.

The next question is have you put a timing light on it when cranking, both cold & warm?
When the distributor heat soaks, the distance between reluctor & trigger increases, and that can cause issues with spark when warm.

Another issue might be in wiring between trigger & module.
Resistance increases with heat, which reduces trigger signal to module.
Clipping onto the coil wire, seeing if the ignition is firing IMMEDATELY and consistently will take that off the table, and it costs nothing to check.

A module that retards timing on starting helps hot starts in particular.
A little extra advance when cold might actually help cold starts since the chamber pressure will be slow to climb with a cold engine.

Just some ideas from things I've run into, if it makes sense you are welcome to use them.
 

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