So I bought a 79 CJ-7 with a new uninstalled fiberglass body

So I bought a 79 CJ-7 with a new uninstalled fiberglass body
I found one of the proto types that the unthreaded shank was to long on. I don't have any of the "nuts" left. Heres a pic.

The large dia. is 2 3/8" and the shank is 1 5/16" to fit the frame mount hole. It gives me my 1" body lift.
Remember you will only use something like this on the front mounts and the rear mounts. The two center mounts will not line up right. You use the piece that bridges the mounts for them.
I hope that make since.

That's some great engineering! Aren't the pieces that bridge the center mounts just a piece of angle iron?
 

I've looked at that kit a few times and I keep coming to the same conclusion. With the exception of the rubber tube to make bushings from, I can make the rest of those parts myself for $10 - $15. :)
 
Yup. :) They rely on folks who think they can't. :)

EDIT: It's tempting to make up some silicone (RTV) tube like that. Seems like it should work. Be a BEGGAR to cut, though!
 
That's some great engineering! Aren't the pieces that bridge the center mounts just a piece of angle iron?

Something like that. I just used a piece of 1x3 6160 bar stock.
 
That's about... lessee. 10tpi? Looks like.

EDIT: Nope, looks more like 8tpi.

EDIT II: You TUMBLED it, too, didn't you? Or sandblasted it. Them. :)

Tim, your right with 8 I think. It's been 6 years ago so it's all kinda fuzzy now. No I didn't tumble it, it's just been sitting around all this time and lost it's shine.
I should say that I don't recomend anyone doing it this way, as it's got to be the worlds most expencive body mount.
But it's worked for me and it was free except for my time.
 
Something like that. I just used a piece of 1x3 6160 bar stock.

What did you do about the mounts at the rear, just under the corners? The tub I have doesn't have anything built in to bolt the mounts to? It's just open space below where the fuel neck goes. Does your tub have a platform back there? I'd really appreciate a pic of that area. The $20 video I bought is nearly worthless because it totally skips details like that.

From the video I did figure out that I'm missing one bracket under the dash. It's the one that bolts to the top of the brake pedal bracket and then to the tub above the steering column. It supports the top end of the big brake bracket and the column. I'll probably just make one unless I find someone else local that's parting a jeep soon.
 
The fiberglass bodies don't use the rear most mounts, only the ones above the gas tank.
 
The fiberglass bodies don't use the rear most mounts, only the ones above the gas tank.

Sounds like it would be a little weak if someone stands on the far rear wheel well by the roll bar. I'm planning to connect the roll bar to the frame anyway, so I guess whatever I engineer for that will have to double as a rear body mount.
 
You can always fab something in across the rear - angle iron tucked up inside the tub?

You realize that if you connect the roll bar to the frame (very sound for safety's sake) it kinda' defeats the rubber body mounts unless the roll bar isn't connected to the tub at all...
 
You can always fab something in across the rear - angle iron tucked up inside the tub?

You realize that if you connect the roll bar to the frame (very sound for safety's sake) it kinda' defeats the rubber body mounts unless the roll bar isn't connected to the tub at all...

I did a little engineering in my head and this is what I came up with.

Since I have the older roll bar that just bolts to the top of the wheel wells, I can weld bars to the frame below the back and front of the wheel wells that go up to a 3" piece of channel steel that runs just below the bar mounts on the under side of the wells and about two inches from the glass. I can then run bolts down through the roll bar mount holes and wheel well fiberglass, then through rubber bushings and the channel steel. This will act as another pair of body mounting points and will also tie the roll bar into the frame. It should be easy and really strong.
 
That's GOOD - I like that approach, it should add quite a lot of stability. Mind if I plagiarize a little?

Might want to bolt to the frame, though. Top, bottom, and optionally through the center of the web where the stress is lowest. Grade 8 3/8" top & bottom. The web bolts are probably overkill.
 
That's GOOD - I like that approach, it should add quite a lot of stability. Mind if I plagiarize a little?

Might want to bolt to the frame, though. Top, bottom, and optionally through the center of the web where the stress is lowest. Grade 8 3/8" top & bottom. The web bolts are probably overkill.

Not at all!

That's a good idea you have. A box bracket that bolts to the frame with the steel tubing welded to it that then goes up to the channel steel that runs under the top of the wheel wells parallel to the roll bar mounts. Should be bullet proof.

One other thing I plan to do is make some nerf bars out of 2" thick walled steel tubing that don't stick out beyond the body. I'm not a big fan of nerf bars, but I'd feel a little safer knowing their is something besides fiberglass sticking out beyond my seat in case of a side impact. Not to mention that it would protect the underside of the tub outside the frame when four wheeling.
 
One other thing I plan to do is make some nerf bars out of 2" thick walled steel tubing that don't stick out beyond the body. I'm not a big fan of nerf bars, but I'd feel a little safer knowing their is something besides fiberglass sticking out beyond my seat in case of a side impact. Not to mention that it would protect the underside of the tub outside the frame when four wheeling.

I'd let it stick out past the body for protection. It will come in handy off road.;)
 
I'd let it stick out past the body for protection. It will come in handy off road.;)

I really don't like nurf bars. I'll take my chances that something might bump into the outside of my rocker panel and just run them to the inside edge. It'll still protect the body from underneath. I'm thinking of making three mounting points with a bar down the middle for extra safety if hit from the side.
 
Progress report.

So far I've sold the AMC 304 that came with the jeep. I bought a AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l and already have the block honed, painted, and ready to reassemble once the parts arrive. The brake calipers, cylinders, pads, shoes and rear drums have been replaced. I rebuilt the Carter YF carb. I've collected almost all the parts besides the proportioning valve, brake lines and a fuel line. I currently have on order a ring, bearing and gasket kit, a rear/tail light wiring harness, a new HEI distributor and a new fuel sendor kit. I'm almost done with the dirty work of stripping and cleaning the odds and ends like brackets, and engine components, valve covers, pan etc....

It won't be long and I'll be painting this thing and putting it back together. During all this parts cleaning dirty work I just have to keep reminding myself that in a month or two I'll have a full frame off restoration, show quality CJ7 ! :D
 
Excellent!

Ya know the phrase, though... no pics (fill in blank here)... :)
 
Excellent!

Ya know the phrase, though... no pics (fill in blank here)... :)

I just got an email saying something about a link back for this thread???
What's that mean?

P.S. I put some pics up in another thread but since they were asked for here a while back, here ya go.
 
I just got an email saying something about a link back for this thread???
What's that mean? ~~~
Hmm - Those emails are supposed to go to me, not the thread owner.

Please forward me that email if you can. cj at jeep-cj dot com
 
Hmm - Those emails are supposed to go to me, not the thread owner.

Please forward me that email if you can. cj at jeep-cj dot com
Done
 

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