Something Just Broke

[GARGOYLEJEEPER]

Need to remove Nut before installing puller, you can`t pull what is bolted. And as Caveman said you don`t need to pull to remove, but to set back up properly with the spacers you will. I use a heavy duty puller that bolts to the lugs and hit it with 1/2" if nothing I hit with a 3/4" than I use a 5' mall w the hammer attachment, do not set or stand in line with axle, unless you don`t want to have kids.... Be carefull !

GARGOYLEJEEPER

 

[mstar]

Need to remove Nut before installing puller, you can`t pull what is bolted.

The safe way to remove the hub with puller is to back-off axle nut so it is even with end of axle.This will allow hub to pop loose and not fly off and protects end of axle shaft threads.After hub has broke loose from taper,simply remove hub puller and remove nut and hub.Also to mention again.There is NOT a access hole in axle hub to unbolt nuts.They have to be removed with a end wrench if doing so with hub installed.Seems as thou some folks are getting a tapered hub and flanged axle confused. They are not the same.
I have had some very stubborn axle hubs over the years but never had to resort to a 5 foot mall. Mike

 

[tarry99]

What Mike said above.............

I have had to use a 20 ton Posi-Lock puller which is the best money can buy ,and still had to put heat on the Hub to get it to pop loose!
They well get welded on over the years from rust and the friction between the two surfaces...........they are tapered and hence designed to do just that..........when they go back together a very light dusting of Anti-seeze on the tapered surface is advisable.

 

[JR74CJ5]

My bad all

I assumed his Dana 44 was like my Dana 44

 

[Focker]

Need to remove Nut before installing puller, you can`t pull what is bolted.

I'm doing the procedure correctly, the nut is on just enough to keep the hub from launching into me and putting me through the sheet rock!

The safe way to remove the hub with puller is to back-off axle nut so it is even with end of axle.This will allow hub to pop loose and not fly off and protects end of axle shaft threads.

Seems as thou some folks are getting a tapered hub and flanged axle confused. They are not the same.

POP!!!




I meet a local Jeep guy and borrowed his puller today. Just as I got home who pulls in the driveway? The FedEx truck with the puller I ordered and canceled (because it was shipped from CA to TN instead of WA after paying for 1 day shipping). I received it anyway and went to work on the hub (yes I'll contact the seller and tell them I have it and pay for it). First I tried the borrowed puller because it's built so much better. After pounding on the puller with my new BFH and applying some heat, I was afraid to ruin another guys tool. I unpacked the one I ordered and decided to try the rattle gun approach. That's when I heard the shot heard from around the world! It was a thing of beauty...I never thought this thing was coming off.

Thanks everyone.

 

[JR74CJ5]

So..... did you find the damage yet?

 

[Focker]

No...Trying to get the axle out. It wiggles around and feels like it's sheared right behind the bearing but it's not pulling straight out.

 

[Torxhead]

An axle slide hammer could help here.

 

[Focker]

Finally...Success!

I had to heat the race and use the hub as a slide hammer. It's a clean break...The axle shaft is 19 spline.

 

[Hedgehog]

amazing, looks like it was cut off with a saw.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

That's one of the 'cleanest' breaks I have ever seen
You may well want to think about replace'n both axle shafts.
LG

 

[mtnwhlr]

^^X2

 

[Focker]

You may well want to think about replace'n both axle shafts.

The seller is giving me both, at the minimum I'll be inspecting the other side.

 

[Hedgehog]

Axles don't generally pop like that.

Was watching deadliest catch a couple weeks ago and they lost a propeller in a very similar way. They said that over the years micro cracks develop. Eventually the cracks link up and axles shear like that. The problem is until it happens you can't see the cracks without special equipment. Sorry, if the other axle is the same age you should replace both of them.

 

[Focker]

Do you have a good source for bearings and whatever else I should get?

 

[GARGOYLEJEEPER]

Sorry mstar,
But it was supposed to be 5 pound sledge hammer, I hit the ` when I should have hit the #. Working with Mac for 22 years every manual I have says to, 1) remove the hub cap 2) remove axle nut. When you rip the threads off the axle with the nut if it is not a broken axle then you need to repair threads or replace. Nut on may be the safe way but from the picture his washer & hub is against the puller. But then again no one listens to me until it is to late.
Focker sorry about the axle.

 

[Turbogus]

This reminds me of a little Chevy (Suzuki) Sprint '85, I had years ago that had a wheel bearing failure. The FSM said to use a slide hammer so I rented one and turned to. I destroyed the spindle in the process, and by that time no service parts were available. A local shop in Coos Bay bubble gummed it together but it was never the same.

 

[JR74CJ5]

Man that's a heck of a lot cleaner break than mine!

 

[GARGOYLEJEEPER]

Focker,
Mine was a clean break also (looked like it was made that way had the counter sink in the end), broke the axle shaft, broke the housing, broke the bank.
This was in my 2A, downshifted going to fast in town, had to push it home 10 blocks by myself. Leaking oil all the way, almost got a ticket, but the nice officer felt sorry for me. Pulled the cover to see it busted at the bearing cap, cracked the housing. Did not repair, replaced the axle assembly with a Dana 44 , since a Dana 41 was more expensive at the time (also had beefier 10 spline axle shafts than the 44 10 spline), used my brakes.

 

[JR74CJ5]

That was mine! And the rest of the chrome-molly shaft was floating around in the ring and pinion the whole way off the trail