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Misc. Jeep Soup's WOT problem.

Misc. Jeep Soup's WOT problem.
This Morning's Coffee Update.

Had a Good Day on in the Shop yesterday.
Accomplished several things.

Now, another pesky problem I have had since I owned this Jeep.
Oil vapor (or maybe even just oil) is being drawn up the Air Tube to the Air Horn on the Carb and after sitting, drips oil down the carb, and onto manifold. When running it is so slight it must be burning off.

First, I researched this problem and others have experienced also. I have already posted that the PCV tube is clear and the Valve is NOT Stuck. I looking at
Engine Diagrams, noticed that there is to be a Washer Baffle on the Dipstick. Mine is MISSING.
This washer baffle also acts as a Guide to get the end of the Dipstick to hit the Casting Hole at the Bottom of the Filler Tube.
Could not find a replacement on my Parts Safari Tuesday, so I will shop fabricate one.

Second, refer to Fig. 1 that there is to be a Rubber Hose that goes right before the Air Horn with a clamp. 95% of these are GONE, as this is a "Force Fit" joint and previous owners don't replace them when they wear out.
I will also replace this too.

Third, I found posted online a Paper Filter conversion for the Oil Bath Air Cleaner. This is a EXCELLENT Simple Solution and the parts are Available !!
NOW, again reference Fig. 1,
My Air Cleaner is MISSING part letter G ! And Fig. 2 is what the Previous Owner replaced it with.

Here is the simple Paper Filter Replacement keeping the original Oil Bath Filter Casing.
Fig. 3-7
Fits perfectly.

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With the Exhaust Manifold out of the way, it was SO Easy to Adjust the Valves !! They were ALL out of Adjustment, especially No. 2 Cyl Intake. (Notice in pix that it is right behind the exhaust pipe)

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With the Valves adjusting complete, put "Honda RTV Sealant" on the block to manifold studs and installed them.

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Retrieved the side cover, PCV tube assembly, and the Air Cleaner parts from the Solvent Tank, and off to the Paint Department for a Fresh Coat of Gloss Black.
That concluded yesterday's work.

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Good Morning,
It is Fucik Friday !!
(When I was still working, if you were on Our Crew.... You wore a
Hawaiian Flowerty Shirt, and our attitude was
"What !!??.....
Fucik You, you'll get it Monday !")

Oh, for the Record.....
Composer Julius Fucik is in on the Fridays Joke !

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Today's Coffee Report;

Yesterday again had some success's.
Second coat of paint on the parts in the Mini Paint Booth.
Started adjustment of the brakes.
No pictures or description on brake adjustment as it looks like I the only one working on a Jeep prior to the F Head High Hoods.

Cut a new Side Cover Gasket. Yes they are available, but pricey as a Single Piece, and Shipping.
Another Shop Tip, BUILD Inventory.
Go to your local Swap Meets, ALL Sorts of Parts Supplies are too be had CHEAP !
Sheets of Gasket Paper of various types and thickness are
a CHEAP.
And you can Score a Occasional Jeep Item that is not a "Best Made in China" original !
Also, check out your local estate sales. Another Gold Mine of Spare Parts items. Electrical Connectors, Nuts Bolt Bins,
Specialty Tools Dirt Cheap.

Oh back to work ...
After tracing the old brittle cork gasket, cut this one.
It is stiffer gasket paper, but I am going to be using RTV sealant on both sides of it.

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Also this is a Upgrade.
There are only two bolts holding the Side Cover on. An the Original bolt seal was a Soft Steel Crush Washer.
There has to be a Good Seal Here to get Crankcase Pressures to get the PCV valve to work and do it's job.
So from my Grommet selection, I found one to fit the bolt thread OD. And then Drilled the Side Cover Bolt Hole to fit the Grommet. Now being this small of a Grommet, it took a little Coaksing with a Tiny Screwdriver and Lubricant (Spit) to work it onto the Cover. Did the same to the PCV vent Tube Assembly.
Both Bolts, removed the old Crush Washers the use regular steel washers.

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I am waiting for the Manifolds to come back from the Machine Shop. The Side Cover is On, and the Paper Air Filter Swap is complete. I gave the Engine a "Krylon Overhaul" to give it a Cleaner Appearance.

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Also I worked on the Dipstick Missing Baffle Washer.

With a piece of scrap tin from my NOS parts inventory. (NOS = Never Out of Style)
Using the Dies from my Panel Punch Set, I made a Blank.
To make the Blank, without a huge hole for the hydraulic piston, on a block of scrap wood,
Start the cutting by Hitting the Cutting Die onto the Tin Piece.
Now it will have Dimple Marks to Line Up the Receiving Shear Cup.
Placed it all in my Bench Vice and Squeezed it to pop out the Blank.

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Drilled a small hole into the center of the Blank, elongated it to accept the Dipstick, and slid it up to the Notches from the missing Baffle and using JB Weld, secured it to the Dipstick.

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Spent the rest of the weekend with my Grandson Ryker.
Finished a Longer Project of ours,
over several visits, built a "Visible"
4 cylinder engine. This engine is Almost the same design as the one he helped install on our Mad Max Sammy !
Also we had a Bonfire to take care of a Large Brush Pile.

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The Manifolds came back from the machine shop late yesterday.

First was to install the New Heat Riser Kit. Had to do a little reaming of the new bushing for the shaft to rotate freely.
Then follow the video on setting it up and welding the butterfly in place.
Just to note, this must have been a Surplus Heat Riser Set they sold me. The Shaft was coated in Cosmoline !!
Had to get that Schmidt off
with Brake Cleaner !!

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Now, this is where we have conflicting issues with Jeep Soup. This is to be a replacement engine from another CJ by the Previous Owner. But it has many of the MB parts through out this engine. The original water pump has No Threaded Fittings for a Heater hose connection, and this Intake has No Vacuum Fitting Plugs. Just casing bosses.
So we drilled some while the casing was apart. I want a Vacuum Port for something that I will post later.
After my late lunch and "DOT Approved Safety Nap" I will start installing the Manifolds on the engine. Hopefully All goes well and I will have it together before I call it a day late this evening.

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I love a good afternoon reaming when needed. :chug:
 
It's Fucik Friday POD coffee.
It is -19°F here now. To be a High of -8°F in the Shade this afternoon. Oh, yes I have a Heated Shop. A hydronic heated floor. So hopefully I can get this part off the Punch Card.

The manifold is on the Engine.
A little Acrobatics to get the bottom washers and nuts on.
Used Anti-Seize on All Fasters.

Now only thumb tighten the Intake "Stove Manifold" bolts,
as this will allow the two manifolds to "Move" when tightening the Manifold to the Block.
Then tightened the Intake to the Exhaust Manifold bolts.

Stopped here and came in for dinner. I could Not get the Exhaust Pipe Flange as clean as I would like. Rusted Shale won't come off.
So I ordered a couple of extra Exhaust Pipe to Manifold Gaskets and will Double Gasket
the Exhaust Pipe connection.
Going to Brave the Cold and pick them up mid morning.

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Nice mug. Yeah that’s just too cold. Talked yesterday to my buddy in north Wyoming and he was in his heated ( 60 degrees) 3000 square ft garage building. Doing the bearings on his large travel trailer which was inside also. Pretty darn nice.
 
Here is where I picked up today.
Ran into Town to the Parts House and got the two Exhaust Pipe Flange Gaskets with a fresh tube of Hi Heat RTV.

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Coated both sides of both gaskets and slipped them in place. Anti-Seize on the Bolts and tightened the exhaust pipe on.

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Now as mentioned before,
For ":dung:s and Giggles" I had snapped up some Vacuum Gauges at a local Close Out Store. At the time, no other reason than that they were $1.99 each NIB, and decided after posting about Vacuum Gauges in another post here, I would install one on the manifold permanently.

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