Starting a 65 CJ5 Build but need help with Dauntless 225 swap

[scoletta]

Hello everyone on the forum. I recently bought a CJ5 basket case with the F head pulled, a pieced out Buick Odd fire and a Dauntless Buick 225 V6 225 with a stuck or many stuck pistons and partially taken apart. I have never built/rebuilt an engine and do not know how to start. Can anyone give me suggestions on what info I need to bring the Dauntless Buick 225 V6 back to life and eventually powering my CJ5 ?

I am doing this build blind and do not have any auto restoring background. I have decent tech background due to a life in manufacturing so please use small words and don't worry about insulting me by being basic.

I will be selling some of the extras like the Fhead to help defray the costs of the build (I will need to spend on replacing the tub and hopefully an auto tranny 4 speed) so when I reach the magic number of posts, I will add to the classifieds.

Thanks in advance for your help.

Spencer

 

[Torxhead]

Sounds like a great project, you might want to consider a professional rebuild on that engine while you do the rest of the operation.

 

[scoletta]

Thanks Torx

I dropped the Dauntless Buick 225 V6 and Odd fire off at a Napa Machine shop to clean up. Depending on the estimated cost/rebuildability, I might redo both.

Now I am wondering about the body. Anyone have any horror stories about body work or tips on what to avoid? Right now, I estimate I will need lower cowl on both sides, the tail light panels for both sides and the portion under the tail gate. The good news is the floor is solid including the body mount areas. The bad news is I have a ton of cutting and welding to get this body in working shape.

When I clear more room in the work area, I will get pics up.

 

[tarry99]

Thanks Torx

I dropped the Dauntless Buick 225 V6 and Odd fire off at a Napa Machine shop to clean up. Depending on the estimated cost/rebuildability, I might redo both.

Now I am wondering about the body. Anyone have any horror stories about body work or tips on what to avoid? Right now, I estimate I will need lower cowl on both sides, the tail light panels for both sides and the portion under the tail gate. The good news is the floor is solid including the body mount areas. The bad news is I have a ton of cutting and welding to get this body in working shape.

When I clear more room in the work area, I will get pics up.

Stuck Piston's? If there frozen there from rust hopefully they have not done to much damage to the block...........060 over on the bore size is about as far as you can go. If Napa is going to partake on the rebuild make sure someone there understands the clearance needs of the little Oddfire Dauntless Buick 225 V6 .

Classic Enterprises ( Classic Enterprises - Restoration, Reproduction Parts for Studebaker, Jeep & Ford) sells just about any replacement panel you will need and the quality and fit is the best out there.

 

[scoletta]

Thanks Tarry,

I appreciate the link. Once I track down more individual pieces of information, I am moving this to the build forum. Right now I am still in the Holy , what have I got myself into phase.

 

[scoletta]

So, the good news is that my Dauntless Buick 225 V6 AND the 231 are in good condition to rebuild. I have been quoted $400 for the machine shop work and another $400 for them to assemble. Since I have learned my limits on engine building, I think that is $800 i no longer have.

I have help when it comes time to mount the 225 in the jeep, but I now need to know which companies adapter plate is recommended. The tranny is a T-90 and the Dauntless Buick 225 V6 is from a 66.

 

[Torxhead]

For adapter choices, there is Advance Adapters and Novak.

 

[tarry99]

So, the good news is that my Dauntless Buick 225 V6 AND the 231 are in good condition to rebuild. I have been quoted $400 for the machine shop work and another $400 for them to assemble. Since I have learned my limits on engine building, I think that is $800 i no longer have.

I have help when it comes time to mount the 225 in the jeep, but I now need to know which companies adapter plate is recommended. The tranny is a T-90 and the Dauntless Buick 225 V6 is from a 66.

Just to clear this up the T-90 came with the 4 cylinder and not the V6. The adapter which you may already have as you have noted goes between the bell housing and the T-90 and is about 2.375 inches long.....the input shaft on the T-90 would also have to be changed to a longer one if yours has not been done. You will also need a Buick Bell Housing for the conversion........If you don't have one PM me as I have a spare I would sell............the motor is offset in the chassis about 1 inch to the drivers side.........If you were able to find the stock motor mounts ( and they can be found in a restorable condition) I like using them. The driver side firewall corner needs to have some work done for clearance..........Basically what you need to do is get all the components together.....take at least the drivers side fender off for better access and do some trial fittings........It will all fit including re-using the stock radiator mounting.......the original 4 cyl. radiator can be used but needs to have the bottom hose bib moved over to get to the Dauntless Buick 225 V6 water pump fitting.......It's also not a bad Idea to cut off the original battery mount on the frame and hang the battery off the Right front of the firewall........as the Buick Oil filter will hit the braces and will need trimming anyway...........Since the T-90 was already married to the Dana 18 Transfer Case there is no adapter needed there.........drive-shafts will have to be lengthened in the front and shortened in the back, and No an Automatic tranny would not be a good Idea in a short 81 " WB Jeep..........no room!

Lots of little things but no big deal making it all happen.

 

[scoletta]

Thanks for the input. I am going to get it back on the road and then go crazy with it.

 

[ttkent]

I am commencing a similar project as we speak yet, my 1969 CJ5 appears to have left the factory with a 4 cylinder and sometime over the years the V6 was 'installed'. Upon removal of the tub, it further evidenced some of what I would consider 'jerry-rigging', i.e., motor mounts, clutch fork, etc...I purchased new engine mounts from Advanced Adaptors and am currently in the process of determining the best fit with respect to clearances.

My initial thought was to rely on the Transmission /Transfer Case mount at the crossmember as my fixed point and work from there to place the engine mounts however, I've read that shifting the entire assembly forward may be a better bet. I hope to speak with someone who has already been down this road and, perhaps, answer a few questions.