Starting and running problem

[ftwflh]

OK here goes.Got the rear main in and stopped oil leak.Had a bad miss,new complete distributor,plugs and wires.Started great and run like new.Put about 20 mi on it.
Set for a week and was harder to start but fired up and ran decent for a block.Then started cutting out and died.Started it back up with a small shot of either.Got it back home.Tried to start it up yesterday and it would start and run until the choke started coming off or if you gave it any gas it will die and be hard to start.
Pulled fuel line off the carb and pumped good fuel into plastic cup.Let it set over night.No sign of water or anything in fuel.
Any ideas of where to go next
Oh yea I need to tell you guys this has points and a Weber 2bbl carb

 

[mtnwhlr]

I would start with a stuck float. When it sat for a week the gas may have leaked out dropping the float all the way down and is now stuck.

 

[ftwflh]

I plan on takeing carb apart next weekend.Now I have to get a starter.Mine got hot and stuck.But it is under warranty but wont be in until next week.
I did try tapping the float bowl but that didnt help.
Now to take it apart

 

[Hedgehog]

Sounds like a plugged low speed jet or circuit. Rebuilding your carb seems like the very best place to start.

There are times where problems wait to show their ugly face until the engine is hot. That would usually be electrical in nature. But it looks like you've attempted to work that sort of problem out.

 

[ftwflh]

Took carb apart.Nothing sticking and nothing plugged.Guess when I get a starter on it and the carb back on I will have to check the timing again to be sure it hasnt jumped time.

 

[Hedgehog]

Sounds frustrating, hope you are able to figure it out fairly quickly. In the old days I'd start looking at the coil next. Coils will break down when hot.

 

[JR74CJ5]

1) never any harm in rebuilding a carb with new seals and gaskets etc. Especially if you're not sure last time it was rebuilt, and it's cheap and you have a bit of time to wait while waiting for the starter...

2) Backtrack slightly, you just replaced the distributor right? It ran great but then (from what I read) kinda sounds like slipped a bit on the timing after. Hard starts, crappy idle / running. Check the bolt that holds distributor in place and make sure it didn't loosen itself or distributor settle just a bit.

From there I have a V8 so someone else may have to advise on this for your motor, but any chance the new distributor you had has a harder gear than the camshaft gear and they chewed? Did you take old distributor gear off and put on the replacement to keep the matched (worn in already) set? Was there any wear on the gear to suspect they might be wearing? I know this was a issue for me switching to a DUI distributor in my AMC 304 , not sure what distributor you got new or if even a issue in your motor... Just another thought.

May just be fuel related if you could start with starting fluid but spraying starting fluid wouldn't have got you home...

Just rambling now... let us know what you find.

Maybe see if any vac lines got unhooked while replacing distributor or cracked? Might be a CTO switch that switches vac to/from ported / manifold vac during warm up (mine WAS set up this way) to the carb, and once it's hot enough it switches to a cracked hose part of the system etc...

 

[Hedgehog]

The above information is great and should be done. While at it, in addition:

I see that you are using an old (new) points distributor. Another old time possibility and it's cheap or at least it used to be cheap. Change your condenser. Those little seemingly useless beasts suck up excess electricity and for no particular reason go bad. A simple little thing that can make a world of difference.

Not to push, but electronic distributor guts can be the best upgrade you can do for a long running reliable jeep engine.

I'm always a little confused by this. In simple nontechnical terms it is well known that AMC V8's don't like changing cam gears. So, as I did, it is best to reuse your original gear when changing distributors. But it isn't clear that the same problem exists with the I-6's. Just in case it would be wise to use the old gear, but is it actually necessary with the I-6's?

 

[JR74CJ5]

I'm always a little confused by this. In simple nontechnical terms it is well known that AMC V8's don't like changing cam gears. So, as I did, it is best to reuse your original gear when changing distributors. But it isn't clear that the same problem exists with the I-6's. Just in case it would be wise to use the old gear, but is it actually necessary with the I-6's?

Not sure... It's a bit more complicated than that on the V8's too, but I seem to remember the I6's were fine, just not sure. I think anytime you have match-worn in gears, it's best to keep the same gears meshing together, or replace both to new so they remesh together from the start...

But hate to sidetrack you OP - Think this is a last ditch issue to check probably not even worth my first mention... Like I said, at that point I was basically rambling... sorry about that...

 

[gert]

I am interested to hear what he finds

 

[ftwflh]

Wasnt the carb or plugs.Ended up being a little out of time.Still havent got a GOOD timing light on it but with my old junk one we got it close enough to start easy and run.
Just took another set of eyes and a little time to sort through it all again.
Hope it doent mess up again for a while.

 

[ftwflh]

Got it lined out.Had some slightly loose bolt of the body of the carb.And now for the kicker...........and dirty air filter,

Running great now

 

[JR74CJ5]

 

[Lumpy Grits]

THX for the update.

LG