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Long time Jeep CJ7 lover. Buddy had 1 many years ago that was a blast to back road/seasonal road ride. He has since left us years ago so now I would like to build a CJ7 . NOT a super high $$$ build....not a show queen. A lifted stock frame modified to run 44's. Building this from frame down. Not a rock crawler...no crazy articulating suspension. Think old school and not a lot of highway driving. 402 BBC.
What suspension to use ?
What axles to use ?
What Transmission and Transfer Case to use ?
This a budget build. Just the basic stuff the the frame down part built.
I appreciate all tips, advice, warnings and suggestions.
This will be used in northern Michigan. No swamping...just 2 track creeping along.
Thanks everyone.
Roger
Very open-ended questions due to the number of options and opinions you'll get - but I'll drop mine here first.
To run 44's, I wouldn't keep the Dana 30 or AMC20 axles. I'd upgrade to Dana 44 's or D60's for the strength and 4.56 gearing for the RPMs and torque. To fit those size tires, you'll need at least 4" lift springs, maybe go SOA, and trim the fenders. And of course wide-track for sure.
For the tranny and xfer case behind that 402, the T-150 or T-176 is easy to adapt and readily available; but depends on the HP that engine is putting out. The T-18 is a heavier duty 4-speed to consider. The Dana 300 should be fine.
Very open-ended questions due to the number of options and opinions you'll get - but I'll drop mine here first.
To run 44's, I wouldn't keep the Dana 30 or AMC20 axles. I'd upgrade to Dana 44 's or D60's for the strength and 4.56 gearing for the RPMs and torque. To fit those size tires, you'll need at least 4" lift springs, maybe go SOA, and trim the fenders. And of course wide-track for sure.
For the tranny and xfer case behind that 402, the T-150 or T-176 is easy to adapt and readily available; but depends on the HP that engine is putting out. The T-18 is a heavier duty 4-speed to consider. The Dana 300 should be fine.
Thanks for the informative thoughts, information and opinions TSB8C ! While in general I knew a little bit about these...I just learned almost everything I'll need to know about to get started.
Is there any mods that need to be done to the stock Jeep frame ?
4" suspension lift or higher ?
Once I can get a decent solid roller completed....then it will be frame up next. Again...bare bones...nothing fancy. Fiberglass tub/fenders/hood if I can find a good on them.
I'm going to assume a body lift will be in order to help clear the 44's.
Long time Jeep CJ7 lover. Buddy had 1 many years ago that was a blast to back road/seasonal road ride. He has since left us years ago so now I would like to build a CJ7 . NOT a super high $$$ build....not a show queen. A lifted stock frame modified to run 44's. Building this from frame down. Not a rock crawler...no crazy articulating suspension. Think old school and not a lot of highway driving. 402 BBC.
What suspension to use ?
What axles to use ?
What Transmission and Transfer Case to use ?
This a budget build. Just the basic stuff the the frame down part built.
I appreciate all tips, advice, warnings and suggestions.
This will be used in northern Michigan. No swamping...just 2 track creeping along.
Thanks everyone.
Roger
Okay Roger, I understand the vision: A tribute to your friend, a capable CJ7 for backroad adventures in northern Michigan, built on a budget and with a nod to classic style. 44's and a 402 BBC sound like a handful of fun. Let's break down the components:
**Important Considerations Before We Start:**
* **Safety First:** 44" tires and a big block are going to put immense stress on everything. Don't skimp on crucial safety components like brakes, steering, and proper roll protection (a full cage is highly recommended).
* **Budget Management:** "Budget" is relative. Even a basic build with these specs will require significant investment. Be realistic about your spending limits and prioritize key components.
* **Fabrication Skills:** This build will involve a lot of fabrication, especially when adapting components and reinforcing the frame. If you're not comfortable welding and modifying, factor in the cost of professional help.
* **Legality:** Check local laws regarding vehicle modifications, tire size restrictions, and emissions requirements.
**Frame Considerations:**
Your CJ7 frame will need to be boxed and reinforced. Welding in plating from the steering box, front and rear spring hangers, and the belly pan is a start.
**1. Suspension:**
Since you're not looking for extreme articulation, we can keep the suspension relatively simple but strong. Here are a few options:
* **Front:** Consider a spring-over-axle (SOA) conversion with heavy-duty aftermarket leaf springs designed for lift. You'll need longer shackles, extended brake lines, and possibly steering correction (high-steer).
* **Rear:** Same as the front. SOA will give you a significant lift.
* **Pros:** Simple, relatively inexpensive, maintains a classic look, can be very durable.
* **Cons:** Ride quality can be harsh, Limited articulation compared to other options.
* **Budget Tip:** Look for used (but in good condition) aftermarket springs or consider having a local spring shop re-arch your existing springs and add leaves (though this may not provide enough lift for 44s).
* **Coil Springs (More Modern Ride):**
* **Front:** A radius arm or 3-link coil spring conversion is a good option. Several companies offer kits for CJ's. This will improve ride quality and articulation compared to leaf springs.
* **Rear:** A similar 3- or 4-link coil spring setup in the rear.
* **Pros:** Better ride quality, improved articulation, more modern handling.
* **Cons:** More expensive than leaf springs, requires more fabrication skills.
* **Budget Tip:** Source used coil springs and shocks from other vehicles (e.g., full-size trucks) to save money. You'll need to do some research to find the right spring rates and lengths.
* **Shocks:**
* Regardless of which spring type you choose, invest in quality shocks designed for lifted vehicles. Bilstein 5100 series are a good balance of performance and price.
**2. Axles:**
* **Front:**
* **Dana 60:** The gold standard for strength. Look for a kingpin Dana 60 from a 1-ton truck (Ford, Chevy, Dodge). These are typically high-pinion, which is beneficial for driveline angles with a lift.
* **Pros:** Extremely strong, readily available, aftermarket support is vast.
* **Cons:** Can be expensive, heavy.
* **Budget Tip:** Scour junkyards or online marketplaces for used axles. Be prepared to rebuild them.
* **Rear:**
* **Dana 60 or GM 14-Bolt:** Either of these axles will be strong enough. A 14-bolt is typically cheaper and very durable.
* **Pros:** Very strong, relatively inexpensive (especially the 14-bolt), readily available.
* **Cons:** Heavy (especially the 14-bolt), Limited ground clearance (especially the 14-bolt).
* **Budget Tip:** 14-bolts are common in older GM trucks and vans.
* **Important Axle Notes:**
* **Gears:** You'll need to re-gear the axles to match the 44" tires. A ratio of 5.13:1 or 5.38:1 would be a good starting point.
* **Lockers:** Consider adding lockers (front and rear) for increased traction in off-road situations. A lunchbox locker in the front and a full spool in the rear are budget-friendly options. Be aware that a spool on the street will be difficult to drive and can cause breakage.
* **Axle Shafts:** Upgrade to stronger aftermarket axle shafts (especially in the front) to handle the stress of the big tires and engine.
* **Transmission :**
* **GM Turbo 400 (Automatic):** A bulletproof and relatively inexpensive automatic Transmission that can handle the power of a 402 BBC. Easy to find and rebuild.
* **Pros:** Strong, readily available, inexpensive.
* **Cons:** Not as fuel-efficient as some newer transmissions.
* **SM465 (Manual):** A very strong and simple 4-speed manual Transmission .
* **Pros:** Strong, reliable, good low-end gearing.
* **Cons:** Can be hard to find in good condition, requires more driver skill.
* **Transfer Case :**
* **NP205:** A gear-driven Transfer Case known for its strength and reliability.
* **Pros:** Very strong, simple design, readily available.
* **Cons:** Heavy, fixed low-range ratio (1.96:1).
* **Dana 300 :** Another good option, slightly lighter than the NP205, and has a better low-range ratio (2.62:1).
* **Pros:** Strong, good low-range ratio, lighter than NP205.
* **Cons:** Can be more expensive than NP205.
* **Important Driveline Notes:**
* **Adaptation:** You'll likely need an adapter to mate the Transmission to the Transfer Case . Advance Adapters is a good source for these.
* **Driveshafts:** You'll need custom-length driveshafts to accommodate the lift and axle swap. Have them made by a reputable shop.
* **U-Joints:** Use heavy-duty u-joints to handle the increased stress.
**4. Engine:**
* **402 BBC:** Great choice for power. Make sure it's in good running condition before installing it.
* **Fuel System:** You'll need a fuel system that can deliver enough fuel for the big block. Consider an aftermarket fuel injection system or a large carburetor.
* **Cooling:** Upgrade the radiator and cooling system to keep the engine cool, especially in warm weather.
* **Exhaust:** Run headers and a free-flowing exhaust system for maximum performance.
**5. Steering:**
* **Hydro Assist Steering:** Absolutely essential for turning 44" tires.
* **Pros:** Makes steering much easier, reduces stress on the steering box.
* **Cons:** Requires some fabrication, can be expensive.
**6. Brakes:**
* **Hydroboost:** Power brakes are a must. Hydroboost systems provide excellent braking power.
* **Pros:** Improves braking performance significantly.
* **Cons:** Can be expensive.
**7. Other Considerations:**
* **Roll Cage:** Full cage is highly recommended for safety.
* **Body Modifications:** You'll likely need to trim the fenders or install fender flares to clear the 44" tires.
* **Wheels:** Choose strong wheels with the correct bolt pattern and backspacing for your axles and tires.
* **Wiring:** Check all the wiring and replace any damaged or corroded wires.
* **Gauges:** Install gauges to monitor engine performance (oil pressure, water temperature, etc.).
**Budget-Saving Tips:**
* **Used Parts:** Scour junkyards, online marketplaces (Craigslist, Facebook Marketplace), and local off-road forums for used parts.
* **DIY Fabrication:** Do as much of the fabrication work yourself as possible.
* **Bartering:** Trade skills or services with other enthusiasts to save money.
* **Prioritize:** Focus on the essential components first (axles, suspension, steering, brakes) and upgrade other items later.
**Warnings:**
* **Don't cut corners on safety.**
* **Be realistic about your budget.**
* **Don't underestimate the amount of work involved.**
* **Research thoroughly before buying any parts.**
**In Conclusion:**
Building a CJ7 to run 44's with a 402 BBC is a challenging but rewarding project. By carefully planning, budgeting, and doing as much of the work yourself as possible, you can create a capable and memorable tribute to your friend. Remember to prioritize safety and have fun with the build. This is a big undertaking...remember that it will not be a quick or inexpensive build.
1981 CJ5/258 4.2L I6, Tremec T-176 4-speed, Dana 300, Power Steering, Howell Throttle Body Injection System, Warn Locking Hubs, Warn Rock Crawler front/rear bumper with Tire Swing Carrier, Full Roll Cage, Pro Comp ES9000 shocks
84 CJ7 4 banger-owned since new in 1984 bought off truck at dealership - rebuilding 258, T176 with Sniper EFI D300 4:1 Lomax gears Twin Sticked 1 piece axels with locker
Thanks for the informative thoughts, information and opinions TSB8C ! While in general I knew a little bit about these...I just learned almost everything I'll need to know about to get started.
Is there any mods that need to be done to the stock Jeep frame ?
4" suspension lift or higher ?
Once I can get a decent solid roller completed....then it will be frame up next. Again...bare bones...nothing fancy. Fiberglass tub/fenders/hood if I can find a good on them.
I'm going to assume a body lift will be in order to help clear the 44's.
I hate to say it, but the AI-Bot made some good points about the frame needing to be strengthened in some key areas. You did say "budget build", so I'd focus on steering box and spring hangers. In terms of the amount of lift needed for 44" tires, a 4" suspension lift would still also require trimming fenders to clear the tires. You could then also add a body lift to help with that. I prefer the poly bushings over rubber for durability, but the ride is harsher. My rig is a daily driver with a 4" suspension lift, no body lift, and 35" tires, and I have poly bushings for the body mounts and the springs. They're fine for me. And/or add a SOA conversion to get additional lift before focusing on the body. In terms of how much body lift, perhaps someone else who's gone larger than 35's can tell what would be needed to clear 44" tires without trimming the fenders. 4" of lift in the springs plus SOA plus ?? inches of body lift?
I did that decades ago with 3 wheelers and 4 wheel atv's.
This is going to be a be budget build. Good used parts when I can find them. No fancy paint job...if it even gets painted.
