things I learned about Spartan lockers today

[IOPort51]

I decided to pull the pin on the front axle drop in locker project today. I had heard that the install was a half day job so I planned on 8 hours.

As the first point , this is in no way a bad report on the locker. The install will require a bit more time and energy than I had planned but so far I think this is still a good option for a d -30 front axle.

On page two of the install pamphlet it says "if you are running a low ratio R&P, such as a 4.88 or 5.13 you may find your ring gear is too thick to allow removal of the cross pin shaft."

On the Dana 30 I would have to say that if you had a 2.73 you may be able to get the pin out with out removing the ring gear.

So, this means that the axles have to come out and the carrier removed to allow the ring gear to be removed to get the spider gears out.

The big question is whether or not I can put the carrier back in with the proper pre-load with out a Dana axle spreader. I had just about decided to have a gear shop assemble the Dana 44 for the rear as they would charge me about as much for labor as the spreader will cost. But now I have two axles I will need it for, so the plan could change.

Has any one re assembled a 30 with original shims and considdered the job successful??

If this becomes much more involved I may regret not going with a stronger locking carrier.

so much for the easy way.

 

[CJ]

You should have no problem putting the carrier back, just be sure to mark the ring gear and carrier so you bolt the back up in the same position (shouldn't make a difference but why take a chance).

Just smack it with a dead blow and it will drop right in.

 

[IOPort51]

thanks you have relived major anxiety.

You should have no problem putting the carrier back, just be sure to mark the ring gear and carrier so you bolt the back up in the same position (shouldn't make a difference but why take a chance).

Just smack it with a dead blow and it will drop right in.

 

[Old Dog]

I've never used a spreader, but it is tight.

 

[CJ007]

It should be tight but not to where you need to beat it on. Just pull apart and put back in the same way. Tap on it and it will go, I have the the same locker in the front and have had no probs.

 

[BC CJ]

You should have no problem putting the carrier back, just be sure to mark the ring gear and carrier so you bolt the back up in the same position (shouldn't make a difference but why take a chance).

Just smack it with a dead blow and it will drop right in.

Putting them back in the same position is a good idea. Make sure the ring and pinion gears go back together in the same spot too. There are certain gear ratios that because of the tooth count on the ring and pinion; the same teeth end up contacting each other every rotation and certain wear patterns develop. If you put it back together in a different position it will change the spacing and such which could cause a bunch of trouble. There is a fancy word for this type of gear ratios but I forget it... and I dont know which ratios are like this. Do some research or just be careful to put it back together the same way

 

[Posi]

Don't forget to mark the carrier bearing caps so when its time to install them they go back on in the same position.

 

[Incommando]

Don't get worried. This is a common experience with the Dana 30 . Nothing wrong with your install it is just the way it is.

 

[IOPort51]

something else that is apparent is that I will need to pull the tie rod off to get the carrier out. I am thinking of un threading it rather that pulling the ends out. I have been meaning to take it in for alignment anyways.

 

[Sasquach]

I have now done 4 diff set ups and a spreader is not a neccesary tool. You need to remove and insert the carrier squarely(don't get it cauked) and you will have no problem.
Yes mark bearing caps etc. or lay out to go back in original position.
For someone like yourself IO it will be a walk in the park.

 

[IOPort51]

I appreciate the vote of confidence.

I guess, to be honest I was fascinated by the idea of a pretty major upgrade mod that could be done in half a day. I should have known better.

I have now done 4 diff set ups and a spreader is not a neccesary tool. You need to remove and insert the carrier squarely(don't get it cauked) and you will have no problem.
Yes mark bearing caps etc. or lay out to go back in original position.
For someone like yourself IO it will be a walk in the park.

 

[CJ007]

On the Spartan I don't think u use the washers on the side off the spider gears but do on the lock right. You will want to confirm that but as long as the gap for the suggested measurement between the two halves is correct you won't break pins very easy and it will reduce popping.

I don't have a lift so once I did one. I found the hardest part was bending down and getting in there.

 

[Posi]

Spartan locker I installed about a year ago if it helps. (Dana 44 R&P)



The driver on the left has the springs already installed in the pins. Once the pins are pushed in I locked them in with the supplied retainer wire.



With the side couplers, spacers, and drivers installed I just pulled out the retainer wires to complete the job.

 

[certifiablejeep]

I just did my first locker install over the past 2 weeks... yes, 2 weeks... as I kept getting interrupted by the wee ones.

I actually took it a step further and went with new TRE/drag link and flipped them and stepped back to a stock pitman arm.

It required removing everything.
And FYI, it has 3.31 gears in it and the pin came out... barely, but I had removed it from the case just as well as I figured I was going to have to remove the ring gear.

I watched a few videos on line as to how this is done, as well as some that were done on Trucks/Gearz/etc. and it seemed easy... until I was lying on the garage floor.

So, I removed the tires, the brakes, spindles, axles... I had to repair an outer stub shaft, so this was good... then I removed the cover, drained oil, removed the caps, took out the carrier... came out a lot easier than going back in.

I removed the center pin... it was tight and a PITA, but came out, took out the spider gears and then started the locker install... went in like I was told, it is a LockRight, and you need the thrust washers as described above.

So, all set to go in and I can't get it in for $h1t.
I was cock-eyed all the time... never went in straight.
I gave up on it that night... only to get it first shot the next morning.
I read an important post that night... use a block of wood... this helped a ton. I could use a larger hammer and one tap and it fell right in place. put the gasket on, torqued it down, waited over night and filled it with fluid. It didn't leak... Yea!

Then I drilled out and welded up the TRE flip kit, ground it down and put the new stuff in place. I guessed as I only had the previous TRE to go by... it was close, the tires appeared to be straight.

I then put all the spindles/brake parts on and then the tires and tested it all out.

All in all, a very cool upgrade, but I think it was probably closer to 16 hours by the time I did all the stuff, broken up over 2 weeks with an hour here and there, not the best way to do it.

Here is the writeup (about half way down the page and onto the next)

certifiablejeep.com - Project "Free Jeep" a.k.a Project "FJ" - part #71

cb

 

[IOPort51]

@ certifiable ^^

great write up thanks for sharing.

off subject just a bit, where did you find the clamps on your roll cage build?? I have been looking for some like this in 1 1/2"with no luck.

 

[certifiablejeep]

The front cage came from rockhard4x4 and it is the sport cage tie in for a Wrangler(YJ), modified a bit to work with that configuration.

It comes pre-welded and configured, but the clamps are sold separately. I got a few of them for other things... also I had to get extra screws for something else.

Fabrication Collars

cb

 

[IOPort51]

OK gang I got everything apart and I can't get the carrier out!! pried with big crow bars and hit with dead blows and it did not move even a hair.

If a stroke of genius does not come to me I am back to ordering the axle spreader to take the pre load off the bearings.

on the good side the axles came apart easy enough and the u joints look OK but I think I may replace them , hopefully with some that can be greased. and the seal on the wheel end has seen better days.

 

[IOPort51]

I just found this over at Jeep forums. I am pretty sure I can put one of these together tomorrow.

 

[CJ]

Looks like the spreader I made a long time ago.
I have never had a case so tight I couldn't pry out the carrier - that's weird!

 

[IOPort51]

I guess , in reality, there are not very many miles on my front axle and it more than likely still has all .0015 pre load on it.

Any way it will make it a lot easier to put it back together and I need one for the Dana 44 I have for the rear. With this, if it works half way decent, I have no problem building the axle myself.

the thing that is annoying me right now is that I had my mind set on the heavy steel pivoting spreader they sell for $200-$300 and could not see building one like it for enough less to make it justifiable. I guess senility takes your creativity first??

There may be some hesitation on my part to apply enough force and have that heavy sun of a gun pop out and land on some part of my body.

Looks like the spreader I made a long time ago.
I have never had a case so tight I couldn't pry out the carrier - that's weird!