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things I learned about Spartan lockers today

things I learned about Spartan lockers today
Know what you mean - the spreader I made is simple - two pieces of all-thread welded to a .250 plate and another .250 plate with a pipe welded to it for the thread to through. Just turn the nuts to spread.

Just be sure to open the case just enough to pull the carrier, it is possible to tweak the case and it won't return to it's relaxed state. :(
 
got the dial indicator polished and ready to go.:)

CJ said:
Know what you mean - the spreader I made is simple - two pieces of all-thread welded to a .250 plate and another .250 plate with a pipe welded to it for the thread to through. Just turn the nuts to spread.

Just be sure to open the case just enough to pull the carrier, it is possible to tweak the case and it won't return to it's relaxed state. :(
Click to expand...
 
IO,

I always seem to need a spreader, it's only .015-.020 thousands but it does make the job a little easier. Mine in the picture is set up for the Dana 44 right now as you can see it is in the wider position, the inside holes are for the Dana 30 .
If you need some dimensions let me know. The hardest part is getting a good piece of all thread to use and a sleeve to push against.......do you have a lathe?I used a piece of 3/4" NF 4130 I had here in the shop.
Your bearing caps on your axles should already be marked with an arrow or "V" that is either vertical or horizontally marked on each side. Make sure you keep the shims straight if they are not already on behind the bearings.
Good Luck!
:chug:
 
tarry, some dimensions would be great.:notworthy:
 
just where are the pins going into the case??

there are two blind holes on center of the Dana 30 that are only about 1/4".

I guess a hardened steel pin would be strong enough but is that set of holes what is generally used??

:cool:
 
Old Dog,

On the top & bottom the adjustable holes center / center are 13.0" & 10.5" The bar stock is 1-1/2x3/8"
My jacking shaft is 5/8"x16 NFT not 3/4" as I posted yesterday. As you can see I used a piece of threaded shaft turned down on one end to use as the alignment spud and then welded a Heavy Duty nut in there to do the spreading.
The Vertical bar stock is 1/2"x2.0" with the holes drilled at 12.0"
Everything is bolted together with 5/8" bolts.
If you notice on the jacking pins I threaded those in: The OD of the pins are .837" and are just a 3/4"x16 NFT bolt with the head turned down and a screw driver slot cut in. Some times you need to be able to move those in out out to get a better bite on the axle. Also if you ever bunged one up it makes easy work to change it out.
These dimensions will pretty much cover most all of the Dana axles all the way up to 1 ton size that's why I made it a little heavier duty.
:)
 
Got it out !!:banana::banana::banana:

and got it back in!!:bounce::bounce::bounce:

didn't use a spreader after all, used an old towel.

got a few pictures and am thinking tech article.

can't wait to see if this is worth the effort.:cool:

Now to put the axle back together and look for a decent front end alignment.
 
:notworthy:. Lets see that write up when your done. :)
IOPort51 said:
Got it out !!:banana::banana::banana:

and got it back in!!:bounce::bounce::bounce:

didn't use a spreader after all, used an old towel.

got a few pictures and am thinking tech article.

can't wait to see if this is worth the effort.:cool:

Now to put the axle back together and look for a decent front end alignment.
Click to expand...
 
IO,
Good for you, glad to hear you got it back in.
 
Two questions for anybody that wants to try and answer them.

Why did I expect to find shim spacers on the outboard sides of the carrier bearings on the D 30??

Why were there no shim spacers on the outboard sides of the carrier bearings on the Dana 30 ??

I find it difficult to think that a .015 pre load can be put on the carrier bearings and impossible to believe that the pumpkin is machined to such precision that the rind matched the pinion with no shims.

I put gear paste( Prussian blue) on the ring and it was making a respectable contact mark with no noticeable side play and a very small amount of back lash.
 
IO

Most of the ones I've seen have the shims between the carrier housing and the bearing , keeps them where they need to be.
 
that is what I thought but there were none!:dunno:


tarry99 said:
IO

Most of the ones I've seen have the shims between the carrier housing and the bearing , keeps them where they need to be.
Click to expand...
 
I've never see any that didn't need shims :confused:
Go look again before you start drinking beers. :laugh:
 
The odds of a carrier not needing shims would pretty small, like one in a million maybe? But with more thought seems not possible and the case should be deliberately wider than the carrier and bearings to allow for shiming the ring gear to and from the pinion as needed.

As to shim location, the AMC makes it easy with them outboard for sure and why does Dana do them inboard :confused: I went with CJ's or was it Old dogs recomendation of making set up bearings by grinding the inner race to slide on and off easily to change shim pack.
 
IO,

If that's the way they came off with no shims and you like the pattern..........put it back together. You will know soon enough if its noisy........I think you will be fine.
 
Maybe when the carrier came out the stock shims were still in there? :confused:

The stock one are usually just one big looking washer on each side and not shims pack with a bunch of different sizes. I would assume that would be pretty rare but it sounds like it went back together fine. :cool:
 


right and left oil seal, no shims.:dunno:
 
The shims on a Dana 30 are between the carrier bearings and the carrier, not the race and the diff housing... ;)

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